Jump to content

Shammy's


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was trying to get a list of shammy's board members are using, I have a set of sham wows but i don't think the rayon fibers are paint/clear coat friendly; I've been using some walmart terrycloth for drying my civic and motorcycles. Because of size of the truck, I think i'll need to invest in a good long lasting shammy...

Posted
I was tryinng to get a list of shammy's board members are using, I have a set of sham wows but i don't think the rayon fibers are paint/clear coat friendly; I've been using some walmart terrycloth for drying my civic and motorcycles. Because of size of the truck, I think i'll need to invest in a good long lasting shammy...

I use Sham-wows ...and I have a black truck....never see any scratches. Of course I wax right after I dry too.

 

If your scared to use something like this...or you find what most of us have found out...there's just a whole lot of truck to dry....you can go get your self a leaf blower...it works wonders.

Posted

microfiber, works good, takes about 2 or 3 depending on the temp and the amount of sunlight. I can sqeeze the water out and keep going.

Posted

Sounds like I am odd man out...I use the blade and a Natural Shammy (sheep skin). They are expensive to get a good one, and the trick is to take care of it and not excessively wring it out and tear it.

 

bbwb

Posted

+1 on the sheep skin....Cant remember the brand name, but I bought it at my local Kragen's. It was kind of pricey $$ but works wonders!

Posted

After I wash the truck I hit it pretty good with a yard blower!. lol!. hey it works!. then I go over the rest with a microfiber towel.

 

If I'm in a hurry and don't feel like dealing with the yardblower. I will use an Absorber to get the bulk of the water off.

 

Microfiber towels work best if you care for them properly. I was told to wash them in cold water liquid detergent and never use any sort of dryer sheet or softener as that will ruin it's ability to absorb water and cause it to scratch your paint.

Posted

The Cali Blade is amazing...doesn't streak and doesnt scratch anything. My dad introduced me too it and I haven't looked back since

Posted
Sounds like I am odd man out...I use the blade and a Natural Shammy (sheep skin). They are expensive to get a good one, and the trick is to take care of it and not excessively wring it out and tear it.

 

bbwb

 

Yup, best way to go!!

Posted

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be investing in a blade and sticking with MF terry cloth towels to dry is the residual water...

Posted

Wash, drive down road a couple miles, finish with microfiber towels (they do leave behind lint) then go over with soft diaper quality cotton towel to apply quick detail spray wax to extend wax life.

Posted

I use a leaf blower followed by 100% cotton made in USA towels.

 

On a side note, I saw an analysis of different wash methods. They prepped the paint identically for 3 cars and hand washed one, wash stall second, and auto car wash (not touchless). The machine was won believe it or not. The hand was was best until he used a water blade which according to him scratched the paint. The wash booth was worst due to the good old brush. Car wash did least amount of damage in their study. They still said hand washing twas best but watch out using a blade.

 

I will hand wash if at all possible or a touchless just to get the salt off. Very occasionally I will go through a Delta Sonic but usually only a few months after I've detailed.

Posted

1200psi power wash and blow off the excess water, Wax as you Dry and an old bath towel does the job on my 94 ZR-1 01 C5 Vette,04 Monti Carlo SS,2000,01,03,04 &08 CTS4 and they all have a great wax.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 404 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...