Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I posted a thread a while back (I can't find it) where I mentioned a slight rattling noise, but it's more a tapping noise under more than light throttle at lower rpm. I was told it might be the heat shield on the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I was also told, it might be the radiator tank rattling around.

 

I fixed both of those potential issues by taking a screwdriver and pulling the heat shield away from the passenger side exhaust manifold. It did seem pretty close in a few places. I also wedged some duct tape between the radiator tank and the fender and another side. It's snug now. The tank did rattle a little bit when I shook it, so I was hopeful.

 

Unfortunately, both of those attempted fixes didn't work. It's a pretty light tapping noise under moderate throttle at 2,000-2,500rpm or so. It doesn't seem like valvetrain as the motor runs great otherwise. Could it possibly be the VVT????

 

Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise, the truck has been great, but this tapping noise is a bit of a distraction from otherwise good engine sounds.

Posted

i have the problem too...on my 5.3 it reminds me of the chatter 6.0s make under load...

Posted

You sure its not spark knock? What grade fuel are you using. You could need to run 91 octane or better. :)

Posted (edited)

I have the same noise, and I run 93, always have. I sounds like it's coming from the left side of the engine compartment. It doesn't sound consistent with the engine RPMs so I don't think it's lifters. I also don't think it's injector noise because the more gas I give it the louder it gets but it doesnt change how many ticks it does. Also, I think it only does it while in gear.

 

I drive a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 W/T 4.8 LY2 with 13,600 miles. Has done it since I can remember.

 

My 4.8 doesn't have Variable Valve Timing or Active Fuel Managment so I don't think either are related.

Edited by SCHSIERRA
Posted

I run 93 octane, primarily Chevron exclusively, so it's not knock. It's at low rpm under load, but not WOT. Maybe anything between 30-50% of throttle between 2,000 and 2,500-2,800rpm or so. Above that, either the sound goes away or the engine noise drowns it out.

 

It's really not a metallic sound per se, it's more of a tapping noise maybe 2-3 times a second through the above rpm and throttle parameters.

 

It's quite odd and I'd like to get a diagnosis because it makes the engine sound a little lame and one of the main reasons I bought this truck is for that sweet 6.2L motor. :noway:

Posted (edited)

I can't duplicate the sound while in Neutral, Park, or Drive with my foot on the brake. It's only while driving, although speed doesn't seem to affect it. I think it has a popping, ringing, and tapping sound mixed in one. I think it sounds exhaust related. The ringing noise I can duplicate in neutral going down the road, but once I take the load off the engine, the popping and tapping go away.

 

As you said, QUCKAG, it doesn't sound metallic.

Edited by SCHSIERRA
  • 1 month later...
Posted
It's good to know quite a few people have a similar issue, but it's a bit concerning no one has a fix?

 

 

I think I have this noise. But is only at lower speed. When I accelerate it goes away. I have the 4.8 engine.

Posted
I posted a thread a while back (I can't find it) where I mentioned a slight rattling noise, but it's more a tapping noise under more than light throttle at lower rpm. I was told it might be the heat shield on the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I was also told, it might be the radiator tank rattling around.

 

I fixed both of those potential issues by taking a screwdriver and pulling the heat shield away from the passenger side exhaust manifold. It did seem pretty close in a few places. I also wedged some duct tape between the radiator tank and the fender and another side. It's snug now. The tank did rattle a little bit when I shook it, so I was hopeful.

 

Unfortunately, both of those attempted fixes didn't work. It's a pretty light tapping noise under moderate throttle at 2,000-2,500rpm or so. It doesn't seem like valvetrain as the motor runs great otherwise. Could it possibly be the VVT????

 

Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise, the truck has been great, but this tapping noise is a bit of a distraction from otherwise good engine sounds.

 

 

2 more things to check

 

see if your cylinder #7 exhaust bolt broke off. these exhaust manifold bolts are prone to shearing off. take a look at the driver side exhaust manifold-to-cyl head bolts, closest to the firewall

 

if that's ok, then you may have a leaking exhaust downpipe donut seal. we had a few in the shop awhile ago.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
I run 93 octane, primarily Chevron exclusively, so it's not knock. It's at low rpm under load, but not WOT. Maybe anything between 30-50% of throttle between 2,000 and 2,500-2,800rpm or so. Above that, either the sound goes away or the engine noise drowns it out.

 

It's really not a metallic sound per se, it's more of a tapping noise maybe 2-3 times a second through the above rpm and throttle parameters.

 

It's quite odd and I'd like to get a diagnosis because it makes the engine sound a little lame and one of the main reasons I bought this truck is for that sweet 6.2L motor. :thumbs:

 

You may have a defective knock sensor. What it may be doing is advancing ignition timing too far and then pulling back when audible knock occurs. Honda Odyssey vans had this problem several years ago. I was reading a number of complaints where the engines would knock regardless of the fuel used. Just a thought.

 

With a good knock sensor, even if you ran regular 87 octane in your engine, there should be no knock as the knock sensor should cause the ignition timing to retard somewhat, thus eliminating the knock. You would experience just slightly lower performance, that's all.

 

I do not know what kind of noise you are experiencing. What I described above would be engine pinging.

 

As Stealth pointed out in the post above, it could be a leaky exhaust gasket. i had those on my Nissan pickup at about 90k miles (their 3.0 liter V6s were famous for that) and there was this rumbling noise on acceleration until the engine got hot, then the noise stopped, because the gaskets expanded and sealed better.

Edited by pm26
Posted

I had a rattle every so often on my truck also. I did the heat sheild and coolant tank but no help. Then I found a tsb about the battery cable being close to the oil dipstick and it would vibrate against each other. What I did is zip tie the cable to the dip stick holder and the vibration noise went away.

  • Like 1
Posted
I had a rattle every so often on my truck also. I did the heat sheild and coolant tank but no help. Then I found a tsb about the battery cable being close to the oil dipstick and it would vibrate against each other. What I did is zip tie the cable to the dip stick holder and the vibration noise went away.

 

Do you have the tsb number?

Posted

Sorry no I don't have a number of the tsb. I think they say to reroute the cable but I just ziptied them together and have had no more issues for over a year.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Did you ever find out what was causing this?

 

No sounds at start up, idle, free rev, or throughout first gear 900-6000RPM that i can hear. If I do a manaul gear select and keep it in first and mash the gas/brake to load the engine/let the RPMS climb I dont hear anything.

 

I dont think its anything internal like a bearing, wrist pin, lifter, etc as it would scream out at me in 1st under load.

 

Here is a video of it. This is from a stop up to 4th at about 40. You can really hear it around the 49-55 second mark.

 

Could it be detonating/pre-ignition from bad knock sensors? I was going to burn up the rest of this 87 and run some 92 and see if it helped.

 

Transmission/converter?

 

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

I know this is a while ago but any update on a fix. The youtube vid from Z06killr is exactly what I have in an 2007 6.2 I purchased recently.

Edited by dbroman3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...