Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

going to paint my stupid rear drum brakes and I cant get the damn things off. There is no retainer clip keeping them on so do i need to just beat them off or is there an easier way? I took the rubber plugs off the back and not really sure what im looking at in there.

Posted

I think I always just hit them with a hammer on the front of the drum in about 3 spots. After that they would be loose enough to pull off.

Posted
I took the rubber plugs off the back and not really sure what im looking at in there.

if you look in the hole, you should see a star wheel, and a latch on the wheel. if i remember right, take a small screw driver, or a pick and move the latch away from the star wheel, and with a med. size screw driver, turn the star wheel up 2-3 full turns. that will contract your break shoes enough to pull the drums off..

when your done :uhoh: remember to re adjust your breaks again, so you don't crap your paints the first time you apply your breaks.. :lol:

 

hope this helps.... :thumbs:

Posted

On a relatively new vehicle you shouldn't have to un-adjust the shoes to get the drum off. Give the hub surface a few good whacks with 2lb hammer in 3 equally spaced spots; this will break any bonds loose. At that point, you should be able to pull it off.... sometimes i find that its easier to pull off if you rotate it at the same time, so make sure you have the other side in the air and the wheel off.

Posted

They always freeze up at the axle hub, spray some wd-40 at that area and let it sit for awhile then the hammer method. You do have the parking brake off right? I have to ask because I have seem people wear them selfs out and figure out the parking brake is still on.

Posted
They always freeze up at the axle hub, spray some wd-40 at that area and let it sit for awhile then the hammer method. You do have the parking brake off right? I have to ask because I have seem people wear them selfs out and figure out the parking brake is still on.

 

+1, I have seen the same thing.

Posted

yeah parking brake was off. I was just trying to get them off so i could paint them. couldnt get them off so i just taped everything off, primed and painted them with the drums still on. worked like a charm. pissed me off though.

Posted
They always freeze up at the axle hub, spray some wd-40 at that area and let it sit for awhile then the hammer method. You do have the parking brake off right? I have to ask because I have seem people wear them selfs out and figure out the parking brake is still on.

 

 

+2 right side took a couple of taps, left side had to soak for a few minutes

Posted (edited)

Use a heavy rubber mallet, hit the drum on the farthest inboard edge of the drum in two spots across from each other. I clean my drums every tire rotation so mine always come off easy. But this is how I get the drums off transport trucks.

 

Edit: There are no retaining clips or any device holding the drum on other than the wheel + lug nuts.

Edited by DaveV
  • 5 years later...
Posted

I second the two bolt method, although I have also had to use the small screwdriver to push against the locking tab and back off the star-wheel adjuster with a brake adjustment tool because the shoes were so far gone the metal was grooved into the drums. (not my truck). I recently made a YouTube video showing how to do it.

 

 

Posted

You can put some 'anti-seize' on the flat surface of the axle - where the drum comes in contact with it. I also put anti-seize on the lug nuts.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Size of the holes on my rear brake drums (2006 Silverado LS1500 V6 Std cab long bed 2WD 5spd) is 10 mm 1.5 thread and 25mm in length. You can probably get away with shorter ones like 20 mm. Took me two trips to HomeDepot to find this out since I misplaced ones I used previously. Mine will be free once again.

Posted

Final caveat - this should pop (audible sound) the rust bond between the hub and drum. You can certainly help it along by applying penetrating oil or pounding on the drums between the studs. However if your drums are grooved you may still have to loosen the adjuster(s) to remove the drum(s). I would caution against using too much heat since the brake cylinders do have rubber boots around the pistons and the drums may be brittle or worn so go easy with the pounding also. If you are replacing the drums then by all means have your way with them. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,731
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DjmFingerstylePlayer
    Newest Member
    DjmFingerstylePlayer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 607 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
    • I apologize, I missed this post, at risk of going off CURRENT TOPIC.   I'm not saying it is BS, I'm questioning how much information is being held back. GM is NOT going to spell out exactly every parameter in the algorithm. Liability, intellectual property, etc.    I'm not naive enough to believe that it is as simple as revolutions, coolant temperature, miles, time; are you?    I don't do irrational either, and boiling the OLM down to four simple values that I could code in an afternoon (I'm not a coder) is irrational - unless it suits your agenda to ignore it. 
    • Chris 21 I appreciate your constructive response. !!  😉😉😉   The 6.6 is gas.  Correct me if I’m wrong but by recalibrating the speedo you’re correcting the shift points of the transmission on these trucks.?.
    • That is a huge misconception.     Bigger does not always equal safer.  Modifying does not make it safer either, with exceptions.   Think of this.  Your truck in stock form is capable of emergency maneuvers, proper stopping distances, its handling is designed around the factory wheel/tire packages, etc.   37s and a lift?  Now you've affected your braking distances, handling and ride control.  You've raised your center of gravity higher.  Your front visibility is now obstructed more than stock, same for your rear.  Does it look cooler?  Yes.  Does it now work as good as it did from factory on road?  NO.       As for my mention of exceptions?  Say you had a sedan or crossover.  They typically come with all season tires.  If you swap out for a performance all season or a summer tire, you improve your car by lowering its stopping distance (better braking because of traction) and improve the handling (regular and emergency) of the vehicle.  That is an actually improving modification.  My old 2019 LD 1500, I ran UHP all season tires on 20in wheels in a factory offered size.  It improved all aspects of how it drove over the Duratracs it came with from the factory in the stock 18" tire.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...