Jump to content

Those That Facebook


polarisidiot

Recommended Posts

Posted

I love the guy complaining about his bowtie delaminating.

 

Dude, if thats the only complaint you have about your truck I'd say your doing OK.

 

And since when has the TPMS made a noise when it was under by 1 psi?? I know my tires generally deflate to around 30PSI on a cold day, thats 2-4 PSI under the recommended pressure...and mine don't make noise, or even set a light or message on my DIC...so I have no idea what this guy is talking about.

 

I do however agree with the HVAC comment...the buttons do require you to take your eyes off the road....but I have never veered off the road while doing it.

Posted

I actually have to agree with a lot of what that guy posted...

 

 

- TPMS, I've had a few issues. I find it unnecessary.

- Well I don't HAVE a Chevy bowtie on mine, but my GMC emblem is just fine! lol

- Climate controls DO require eyes of the road, especially with the SLT dash, where they are way down just above the console.

- I think the sheet metal DOES appear thin (and there have been alot of comments made here regarding it) and the bumpers seem way "softer" than my '96.

- My drivers window STILL squeals after being "fixed"

 

 

... just sayin' :smash:

Posted
I actually have to agree with a lot of what that guy posted...

 

 

- TPMS, I've had a few issues. I find it unnecessary.

- Well I don't HAVE a Chevy bowtie on mine, but my GMC emblem is just fine! lol

- Climate controls DO require eyes of the road, especially with the SLT dash, where they are way down just above the console.

- I think the sheet metal DOES appear thin (and there have been alot of comments made here regarding it) and the bumpers seem way "softer" than my '96.

- My drivers window STILL squeals after being "fixed"

 

 

... just sayin' :smash:

I can deal with all that, Mechanical issues are real problems.

 

Just remember, you could own a ford....90% of fords ever sold are still on the road you know....only 10% made it home. :sigh::lol:

 

Or a Toyota Tundra like my buddies, he bought it and about a week later went off road with it, at about 300km on the Odo....he blew the front diff...on a logging road, not even anything hairy. And its so lethargic....it pretty much has to be rolling at about 20-30km/h before you can make it get up and go...and there's no tuning available for it.

 

I can deal with a squeaky window and thin sheet metal/bumpers...just don't hit them.

 

The climate controls are a little dangerous though....I have the LTZ so its the upgraded dash like the SLT.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a 2024 2500 LT crew cab with the 6.6 gas engine and 10 speed trans.  It has a payload of 3578 lbs.  We pull a 22' Grand Design 17MKE that has dry weight of 5006 lbs. and a gross weight of 6395 lbs.  The trailer weighs about 5800 lbs. when loaded up with all the gear.  I don't fill the water tank for travel as most of our trips are to state parks that are within a day's drive.  Depending on the wind I get anywhere from 7.5 to 9 mpg.  I do use a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and have no problems with sway or being pulled/pushed side to side by 18-wheelers passing by me.  The trailer is about the same length of the truck so that helps a lot.  I say that because we traded in our 33' Grand Design 2670 MK (7800 lbs. loaded with gear) and using the same WDH, it would get pulled side to side by big trucks passing by me. It was not bad, but you needed to stay alert and know when a big truck was pulling up beside you.  I got about 7 to 8 mpg pulling that trailer.  I normally drive about 65 to 67 mph when pulling.  Overall, I love the payload capability of the truck as I doubt I will ever get close to its limit and I love the stability it offers over a half ton truck while pulling a trailer.  I have just over 30000 miles on the truck and have not had any issues.  We live in Texas where it is relatively flat, just windy. 
    • I will say though that the 5.00 a gallon for only one fuel stop while on the Number 1, that privilege of driving from the point of Paso Robles ( where I fueled up before crossing to the coast ) and all the way up ... across the Golden Gate where I stopped and walked on the bridge ( and someone jumped off the bridge opposite the side I was on ... never saw it happen but the tow truck/paramedic told me ) and continued on north back onto No 1 and all the way up to where it connects to 101 and also explored some of the Red Woods although had been through some of that before. The fantastic view of that scenic ocean route was most certainly worth the extra dollars I spent on fuel. Just prior to that I had driven through Death Valley and that was some experience in the middle of July, then spent a couple of days in Yosemite and hiked to the top of Half Dome. The summer of 2007 was very memorable for what I saw and experienced in California.
    • Really depends on what extent the towing is.  Are you going across the country on highways or to fairly local campgrounds?  If you're just local towing then I wouldn't derate your truck much, just make sure the weight of your trailer and equipment stays below your limit.  Which for my truck is 14500lbs bumper pull.  Yeah it will work hard when you're over 5 figures in weight but who cares if it is just say 50 miles.    In my opinion the main thing with towing campers is wind resistance.  My 3200lb single axle camper tows fairly hard for what it is due to the wind.  But then if I use my truck to tow a family members 8000lb camper it doesn't really feel any different as wind resistance is similar. I've also towed a 5000lb airstream and it barely felt like anything was there.
    • I think the excitement has run its course. Or, probably need a break from the truck for a few days.   Win some, lose some, again. There was still a coolant weep from the front of the engine. This time it was one of those worm-drive hose clamps on the upper hose connecting to the water neck. There's a reason the factory doesn't use those type of clamps; they suck. The hose is all distorted and flared at the end from someone over-tightening it. The water neck just needed to be cleaned, hose seated, and have a *good* hose clamp put on, if the hose wasn't so mangled.   Thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and try to diagnose the EGR issue. It's likely a failed EGR but before I spent $85 on the part I wanted to make sure ports weren't clogged or the pintle wasn't stuck. It was kind of a bugger to remove with the upper intake installed. Re-install (because I wanted to drive it) proved more difficult.   Per the stack of service paperwork, the EGR has already been replaced 4 times since 1996.   It would reason, then, that the EGR flange on the lower intake manifold has had its share of techs trying to work quickly and maybe one of them seated a bolt slightly cross-threaded at one time. The bolt didn't come out without significant effort and tried as I did, it wouldn't go in without significant effort. And then, the mounting ear on the right side of the EGR (lower intake casting) cracked, and crumbled off. $%&@!!!   I hate everything. Or, at least, I did in that moment. I was pretty calm, considering. This is what older, junky vehicles do. They nickel and dime their owners, piss them off, and things break that shouldn't break because of shoddy design/workmanship, poorly done repairs.   If I want to make it right, I'll need to replace the lower intake manifold and basically re-do everything I spent days doing. At least it should go quicker this time, right?! Looks like a lower intake (used/junk, of course) will run me about $150.   Once I get the new EGR, I'll see if I can bolt it up snug enough to verify proper operation, and if it solves the persistent CEL that sets on decel for EGR flow, I'll know I'm back on the right track. And then I can decide how to proceed.   Also, an idler pulley has given up. It began squeaking in pain on startup. It's clear this truck hasn't been thoroughly driven in a long, long time as things are just letting go and shaking out. I may have given it the beans once or twice to make sure my intake gaskets were doing their job. Flog an old vehicle, expect what it gives in return.    
    • Thanks for the info but wow, these are pricey! $100 apiece. A full set of smaller ones can be had for less that the cost of one of these. Gotta be a cheaper option out there but I have yet to find it. I don't want to use grommets as I can see leaking in my future. Now that I am looking at it, I might be able to just get the valve stem and modify the sensor to fit. Looks like I can just modify the hole a bit to adapt.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...