Jump to content

Is your GMT-900 using oil  

1,555 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Posted

My Gmc doesn't burn oil because I turned off the stupid AFM

 

I bet the EPA bean counters will pass regulations in the not so distant future making this illegal and/or unable to turn off.

Posted

My 2008 Tahoe, 5.3 Flexfuel, AFM, 4 spd, will lose about a liter by the 5000km mark. I check it every week to be safe. Its important to keep in mind that if you run your vehicle down to 0 % on the oil life monitor, you could potentially run through 10000kms or more. Im not condoning the oil consumption issue, just reminding folks that if you have the AFM, its important to do regular checks at the dipstick. I also have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500, 5.3, 6 spd, no AFM... got 100000kms on that as well and doesnt burn a drop.

Forgot to mention, I used 100% synthetic in the Tahoe, and also switched to semi-synth and dino and didnt see much of a difference in consumption between them.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I have 6000 miles on my present oil change, at 23% on the OLM, and I it has used about 1/4 of a quart. Of that 8 oz that it has "used", 6 oz of it ended up in the PCV oil catch can on the engine. So the engine has only "used" about 2 oz in 6000 miles. Not bad. AFM turned off.

 

After factory fill oil change at 1190 miles on odometer, it has been on Schaeffer 9000 5w30 synthetic (no, not on the dexos1 "approved" list). Currently at 22342 miles.

Edited by Cowpie
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

How can I turn off the AFM?

Range device or tune

 

 

Ryan

Posted

AFM seemed like a good idea at the time but from what I've read on here, its one of the worst things GM ever did to their trucks. Very minimal fuel mileage gains and premature engine wear. I have a 99 Silverado Z71 with 190K miles on it and it doesn't use a drop of oil. Neither does my 2004 Grand Am with 149K miles on it. All these newer trucks with 30K or less miles on them using oil, just makes me shake my head. Adding oil is what you do to an old, tired engine. Anything with less than 100K miles on it should never need any oil to be added unless you abuse the hell out of it. Makes me never want to buy any used GM truck with AFM.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I bet the EPA bean counters will pass regulations in the not so distant future making this illegal and/or unable to turn off.

I wish they would just quit worrying about fuel economy. All these damn tree-huggers too concerned about a couple mpg, go save a whale or something. In reality people buy small cars for fuel economy and trucks for hauling and towing. No, you wouldn't want your truck to get 1970's fuel economy numbers that might barely reach 10mpg. It would be much simpler if GM didn't make all their gas engines with AFM. It should be an option, not standard. Then after a couple years when they realized nobody wanted it, they would no longer waste their time on it. Sad part is, they probably spent billions developing something that at the very best is annoying and at worst does very little if anything to improve fuel economy and makes the vehicle run worse and is bad for your internal engine components.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am not so concerned about the busy bodies worrying about fuel economy, it is the hit and miss poor marksmanship the OEM's use to try to get there. They continue to play little games with the motors instead of just taking a quantum leap and building a motor that will have excellent performance and great fuel economy to. It can be done.

 

We all know that ethanol negatively affects fuel economy in our vehicles we have now. But there are motor designs that have gone thru extensive testing that use E85 only and blow the socks off of the motors we use now in both power and fuel economy.

 

This lame cylinder shutdown stuff is about as goofy as it comes in tackling the mpg game. It is not impractical to have motors in our vehicles that exceed the proposed CAFE standards and provide decent performance. Engine designers have most of the nuances to engine design to do this already worked out. Cummins, Ricardo, and other engine designers have gasoline/ethanol fueled motors right now that could knock the socks off of anything being put in a auto or pickup now, and compete favorably even with the diesel motors.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Oil burn continues on my 09 with AFM off (catch can installed) and this is with the PCV update and valve cover update. We did not do the ring/piston part of update.

 

Now at 70,000 getting the lifter clatter on heat sink starts on cold days. Lifter job on the 5.3 is a lot of man hours and truck will be gone if gets worse. Early 900s have the AFM lifter problem. Why did I not buy a 6.2 in 09??? :banghead:

 

Any one got a 900 SLT 6.2 they want to sell? The'14-'15sl 6.2 now have AFM.

Edited by STex
  • Like 1
Posted

Oil burn continues on my 09 with AFM off (catch can installed) and this is with the PCV update and valve cover update. We did not do the ring/piston part of update.

 

Now at 70,000 getting the lifter clatter on heat sink starts on cold days. Lifter job on the 5.3 is a lot of man hours and truck will be gone if gets worse. Early 900s have the AFM lifter problem. Why did I not buy a 6.2 in 09??? :banghead:

 

Any one got a 900 SLT 6.2 they want to sell? The'14-'15sl 6.2 now have AFM.

 

What exactly if the ring/piston update a new design???

Posted

 

What exactly if the ring/piston update a new design???

No not new, it is the normal ring/piston change out for the oil burners covered on this thread.

Posted

No not new, it is the normal ring/piston change out for the oil burners covered on this thread.

Makes sense, does this go back to the 'every bore' is the same in the blocks and the same piston/ring set for everyone where they are not really matched?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Not sure what GM does ... but it obviously is NOT working ...

 

We have been building internal combustion engines for well over 100 years now. You'd think we'd have learned something along the way???

 

If I ever sent out an engine I rebuilt that smoked and used oil like alot of these new trucks, I'd get it back - and the customer would NOT be happy. I'd probably lose alot of business as word spread. How does GM still manage to sell trucks? Guess it's the same crowd buying that voted the past 8 years ... :nonod: Head in the sand, oblivious to the world around them. I don't get it ...

Edited by Jsdirt
  • Like 2
Posted

Well, after 380,000+ miles on my 2008 CC 5.3 (with a pile of receipts for keeping oil in engine), I'm done with Government Motors. Sent truck to auction and bought a Ford. However, he GM did fetch $7,500 at auction but only because it had been well-maintained, would crank and run smooth, decent tires, etc. New owner has no idea that AFM is OFF, valve cover/PCV replaced, seat belt dinger OFF, auto-door locks OFF, computer re-programmed in lieu of chip, AND that truck started to consume oil again.......I give up. But I do totally agree with Sr. Enthusiast that, geez Louise, how long has GM been building engines? and you struggle with keeping oil in crankcase???

 

Never again will I be a GM owner. You boys have fun, hatecarpetguy signing OFF for last time.

  • Like 2
Posted

2012 Sierra 5.3L not sure about block, uses about 1 qt by 3k after oil change, sometimes more. Started consumption test at dealership first 2k no change so I dropped it. Had #7 plug go bad, didn't think to ask the mech about the plug, I didn't think it was connected now it makes me wonder.I use pensoil platnum pure synthetic 5w-30. Oh yea about 55k miles. If there is something I should do or can do to eliminate this problem please let me know. THanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 636 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...