Adding Water/coolant

[cghbuilder86]

My truck is an '04 model with 79,000 miles on her. I'm going on my second year of owning it. For almost the entire first year I never had to add water or coolant to it. But every since the first time it got a little low and I added some I've been having to top up every 3-4 weeks. Is this normal? I can't find that it ever leaks or drips anywhere. Is there a certain amount that one can use and be considered normal/acceptable?

[Black02Silverado]

Check your oil and see if it is milky. You might have an internal leak.

[Fobroader]

Check your oil and see if it is milky. You might have an internal leak.

 

 

X2 ^^^^that. How much are you using per day/week/month. Coolant, like all other automotive fluids, does not evaporate(ok ok, fuel does...and windshield washer fluid). Its going somewhere, either inside or outside. On my old '93, the stupid rad cap was leaking, brand new cap, but it would leak.

[DeePa]

Do you have any other issues? Any ticking at start up or any puff of smoke? Sludge in your oil filter at an oil change?

[nickvrebel]

do a search on here for "Castech heads" and investigate the possibility of having them

[rdnkcpa]

do a search on here for "Castech heads" and investigate the possibility of having them

 

+1 on the Castech nightmare. Also, carefully inspect your waterpump. The gaskets are a known problem as well.

[cghbuilder86]

I checked my oil on the dipstick this morning and it was just a normal dark brown look. About 3,000 miles since last change. No milky look to it though. The amount it uses is not measurable by the day, but after a few weeks. I'll start writing it down when I add to it so I can get an idea.

[cghbuilder86]

I read up on the castech heads...I sure hope thats not the cause. Thankfully I don't have any smoke, no lifter tick, and I don't think any sludge in oil. I'm going to inspect it closely next oil change. Assuming I am clear on all these points I should be able to rule out castech heads right? I'm hoping maybe the water pump is starting to go. That would be a nice cheap fix.

[rdnkcpa]

I read up on the castech heads...I sure hope thats not the cause. Thankfully I don't have any smoke, no lifter tick, and I don't think any sludge in oil. I'm going to inspect it closely next oil change. Assuming I am clear on all these points I should be able to rule out castech heads right? I'm hoping maybe the water pump is starting to go. That would be a nice cheap fix.

 

The ONLY way to rule out the Castech problem is to pull the valve covers. Your passenger side most likely will be pretty clean and give you false hope. Your driver's side will be full of the Dexcool/Oil mixture. However, both heads are trash and will need to be replaced.

[Gone Again]

Check your waterpump gaskets first. If you have the front skid plate-remove it. Much easier to see waterpump or gasket leak from the bottom.

[govener71]

Start with the water pump, but if its not there I had just had the heads replaced on my pickup too. Its a 99 but my heads went bad. I actaully never had the milky color of coolant, just a chunky sludgey oil when I would change it.Pretty much only at the end of draining the oil and the oil filter felt like it was about two pounds. But I was going through about the same amount as you. If you want some good info search for "Sludge in my oil" there is a lot of useful tips on there I recieved from everyone about this exact topic.

 

One way to check for coolant in oil if it does not turn milky is to track the oil level. If you are losing coolant your oil will go up some over a couple days if it is getting into the bottom end of the motor.

[cghbuilder86]

I been doing some research and reading on this some, I'm really hoping my heads aren't cracked. I'm planning on taking it to the dealership soon and let them check it. I'm really not comfortable with pulling the valve covers off and looking at it myself. But just incase this is the problem is it really the best option to replace the heads? I've been seeing prices on the internet of $3500.00!!! Would it even cost much more than that to put in a new motor? I really hate the thought of putting possibly $4,000 in a motor that has 80,000 miles on it.

[GasHog369]

My truck is same way.. i had to top it off with coolant about a month ago after i saw it was a little low. I do not have coolant in oil tho, and i know this because i sent an oil sample in to the blackstone lab and had them test it.. They did tell me my oil usage was elevated tho which was weird for full synthetic.

 

I do on other had have some lifter tap every now and then. Usually just for first few seconds and it goes away. But ive always had that and these 5.3 are known for it. The last time i brought the coolant loss up to my mechanic he said its blowing out the intake

[AirForceAngler]

I do on other had have some lifter tap every now and then. Usually just for first few seconds and it goes away. But ive always had that and these 5.3 are known for it. The last time i brought the coolant loss up to my mechanic he said its blowing out the intake

 

It can take a while for the sludge to accumulate from heads leaking coolant. If your mechanic told you it's blowing it out the intake, you need to find a new mechanic because the intakes on these engines have no coolant going through them at all.

[govener71]

I actually did have both of my heads replaced at the dealer. I thought it was a blown head gasket because I was at 189,000 miles. They began to go at it like it was a head gasket because of a couple flecks of black stuff floating in the surge tank. They then found out I did have a bad head after tearing it apart. I had them replace it with two re-manned Warner heads. This way it came with new springs and lifters instead of the GM replacements which they would then have to have a Tech transfer and clean the lifters and springs. (More work time costs a lot with the GM Techs) So now I have two new heads with new lifters and springs. With a waranty on all parts, and the manager told me partial on the labor because he recomended the heads. The total shop bill was $2400 everything included.

 

Another alternative which may not be a good idea but is a possibility if money is tight at this point. This may make some mad.....but you could run it until youve worn down the crank bearing enough and just put a new motor in it which will cost, if you get a new one or GM replacement, around 4700-5200 dollars at the dealer. That is what I was quoted.

 

While this is not ideal if you are short on cash it is kind of a worse case scenario. But if you have not been leaking coolant long your bearings are probably fine and will be for quite some time. I would have the heads replaced at the dealer again in a heart beat. The price sucks but the quality was great. No messing with broken bolts, studs, and the job only took about 2 days.