Jump to content

100,000 Mile Cleaning


KMGZ400

Recommended Posts

Posted

well my truck just rolled over 100,000 miles yesterday so i cleaned the interior and waxed and cleaned every single possible spot on the truck and as a present for the truck for turning 100k, i just installed a RL 2.5 leveling keys, got new clear corners, just got fresh new firestone transforce HT's, 8000k HID's for the fogs and dumped my exhaust before the axle. id say it looks pretty good for an almost 12 year old truck with 100k on it. the tranny is shifting great, G80 works great, engine is smooth with no ticking or knocking, still runs a 15.8 in the 1/4, with a stock intake and a superchips tune.

 

been a great truck, things that have been replaced so far

 

water pump at 75k

rear brake lines at 50k

rear backing plates rusted out at 80k

both tie rods at 80k

alternator and battery at 50k

tailgate assemble broke at like 60k

front right hub at 100k

its on its 2nd set of front and rear rotors, 2nd set of front pads, and 1st set of rear pads.

u joints at 90k

 

all i can think of

 

 

i really want a new truck, but i dont want to part from this truck and i like having no payments...

 

shiny001.jpg

 

shiny004.jpg

 

shiny003.jpg

Posted

keep it 'til the wheels fall off!

 

they don't make 'em like they used to!

 

it should last you at least another 100k before the engine, trans, and/or transfer case needs to be rebuilt :)

Posted

well at the rate i drive, ill have about 160,000 on it in one year and i just dont want something with that high of miles i will probably keep it for about a year.

Posted

Sounds like you really use your truck. My 02 has 112k and the only thing I have replaces so far is the shocks and the battery, still on the original brakes.

 

These are tough trucks and I plan on keeping mine for along time especially since we just go a new Acadia for the wife, can't afford a new one for a couple more years.

 

I really need to wash and wax mine. It has been way to long since it has been waxed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 3,260 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...