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Battery Level Problems

Big6.2Dan

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Big6.2Dan Enthusiast

Big6.2Dan

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i was just wondering if any of had any problems with your battery getting low or your battery dying in your GMT-900 trucks. In my truck I can sit with the radio on for 10-15 minutes, and the low battery warning thing comes up on the DIC and then after 20 minutes it shuts the radio and everything off. I have had to have the truck jumped 3 times, and I bought it in April. It seems like the truck shuts off after it gets below 12V...

LeoS41280 Enthusiast

LeoS41280

Posted
Posted

 

 

hey guys, i was just wondering if any of had any problems with your battery getting low or your battery dying in your GMT-900 trucks. In my truck I can sit with the radio on for 10-15 minutes, and the low battery warning thing comes up on the DIC and then after 20 minutes it shuts the radio and everything off. I have had to have the truck jumped 3 times, and I bought it in April. It seems like the truck shuts off after it gets below 12V...
Have the battery load tested.
GasHog369 Senior Enthusiast

GasHog369

Posted
Posted

Ive read it is a common issue for the new 2011 trucks.. Your truck is still under warranty. Take it in and get it replaced.

ifshinxs Enthusiast

ifshinxs

Posted
Posted

Its an issue with the 2007 and up NBS trucks. If you do a search you'll find some good info..Anything from the Mega fuse, loose cables, bad cables, Fuse box, up to the computer needing to be reprogramed. Mine was corrosion on the Positive cable..I cleaned all my contacts, both positive and negative connections and so far problem solved. I had my local autozone and then my dealer check my charging system and battery just to be safe..

Big6.2Dan Enthusiast

Big6.2Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok Cool Thanks Guys. I guess I should take out the power wire for my ampa nd take it in. ( The fuses have been pulled from the wire and the amp isn't in the truck anymore) I think they might throw a fit about having that in there, when i bring it in saying I have a battery problem.

wavery Enthusiast

wavery

Posted
Posted

How far do you drive your truck?

 

Another common problem is that some people start the vehicle twice a day, run all the electronics to and from work and only drive 15 minutes each day. Over time, the battery charge gets lower and lower because it never gets a good full charge. This would be especially true if you run a high amp radio system with the engine off. Some of those stereo systems draw a lot of amps. A starting battery is not designed to handle that type of service with the engine off.

 

The vehicle battery is only intended to "Start" the vehicle's engine. It is not intended to run accessories with the engine turned off. If this is something that you normally do, you may want to consider adding a second "Deep cycle" battery with a battery isolator so that you can charge that battery separately while on longer trips or plugging into a charger at home.

 

If your current battery is toast, you may want to consider adding a second battery identical to the battery that they replace (even consider an upgrade). That way you can just wire the 2 batteries together and have them charge at the same time. You only want to consider that type of wiring arrangement if the 2 batteries are "twins".

Wires Enthusiast

Wires

Posted
Posted
How far do you drive your truck?

 

Another common problem is that some people start the vehicle twice a day, run all the electronics to and from work and only drive 15 minutes each day. Over time, the battery charge gets lower and lower because it never gets a good full charge. This would be especially true if you run a high amp radio system with the engine off. Some of those stereo systems draw a lot of amps. A starting battery is not designed to handle that type of service with the engine off.

 

The vehicle battery is only intended to "Start" the vehicle's engine. It is not intended to run accessories with the engine turned off. If this is something that you normally do, you may want to consider adding a second "Deep cycle" battery with a battery isolator so that you can charge that battery separately while on longer trips or plugging into a charger at home.

 

If your current battery is toast, you may want to consider adding a second battery identical to the battery that they replace (even consider an upgrade). That way you can just wire the 2 batteries together and have them charge at the same time. You only want to consider that type of wiring arrangement if the 2 batteries are "twins".

 

+1 on that.

 

The big issue is these modern engines idle so low that they don't charge very good at the low revs as well. So even idling your engine isn't doing a great job of charging.

 

That, coupled with GM putting POS batteries in there end up with people like me buying a replacement from Costco since the dealer said "it's fine". Hmmm... :thumbs:

  • 2 weeks later...
Navidad Enthusiast

Navidad

Posted
Posted

Interesting, I am now getting ready to be on my 3rd battery with only 20k on my 2008 LTZ Silverado. NOTHING but a stock truck.I came out of the airport after being away for two days and the truck would not start! Dealer has said everything is fine but I have to question that since this will be battery number 3.

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted
Interesting, I am now getting ready to be on my 3rd battery with only 20k on my 2008 LTZ Silverado. NOTHING but a stock truck.I came out of the airport after being away for two days and the truck would not start! Dealer has said everything is fine but I have to question that since this will be battery number 3.

 

Ouch. Not sure if your truck is stil under warranty (time wise) but you may want to consider leaving your truck with your local dealership over several nights. They will have to hook up and test the truck to see if there is a large draw over night. Either that or have them check the software revisions of your BCM.

waumo1 Enthusiast

waumo1

Posted
Posted

Any decent shop should have a clamp on type DC ammeter and can tell if there is excessive key off draw in just a few minutes. A clamp on meter that will read down in the milliamps cost about $100 these days. I have one for my own use.

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

To the OP, did you find/get a fix for your truck? My wife's Jeep started doing this every so often awhile back. We even had it load tested & came back "good" the first time. Then after multiple jump starts (always worst time scenario) I told her to take it for a load test again (don't own a clamp on ammeter) sure enough it came back bad this time. Weird part was I would check it with my voltmeter & it was charging & holding a charge (yes I know that's only the voltage.) Replaced the battery & all has been well again.

ShoddyHog Enthusiast

ShoddyHog

Posted
Posted

My 2009 left me stranded a couple times last winter. I don't take short trips -- always 45 minutes one way to work.

 

Becasue I refued to allow them to do a $250 injector cleaning, they signed it and everything else off including the clunking slip yolk as, "could not duplicate".

 

While waiting in line before opening, one of their porters tried to sell me aftermarket parts for my truck. lol What a classy place, eh?

waumo1 Enthusiast

waumo1

Posted
Posted

Any decent shop should have a clamp on type DC ammeter and can tell if there is excessive key off draw in just a few minutes. A clamp on meter that will read down in the milliamps cost about $100 these days. I have one for my own use.

 

I have this one and I find it VERY handy.

http://www.sears.com.../p-03482369000P

 

 

I have this one to measure lower currents and look for parasitic draw, etc. It will reasonably measure the normal level key off draw on newer vehicles (about 30mA or 0.030 Amp).

 

http://www.sears.com...99977000P?mv=rr

 

I need to pick up a 400 or 800 Amp one also.

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