Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

When you get it go on their site and put in the autocal code from your programmer

 

 

Ryan

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Eat your heart out EB fans. This is no b.s. and no I was not drafting a semi, going downhill or gettting pushed by a good tailwind.

 

 

Good to see that! Just called on a 2010 GMC with a 6.2 & asked the salesman to tell me what the avg mpg was... 13.2 with 53,000 miles on it. Hope the guy had a lead foot because I am still going to go check it out.

 

Mine probably averages that as well but I only have a 2 mile drive to work and I'm usually running ethanol these days.

 

Don't buy it for the fuel mileage. My post was just to prove that a similarly equipped EB F-150 DOES NOT get a ton better mileage than a 6.2l GM. ESPECIALLY when they are towing a load then the GM 6.2l kills it.

 

No worries there. But I probably look to hard because I own a semi with a C12 CAT, so in my world tenths make a difference. :driving:

Posted

Anyone going to try Maganflow's catback p/n 15121? I've run Magnaflow kits on my last 2 trucks but have to wait for a screaming deal to pull the trigger on this one. BTW, I switched from 87 octane to 93 octane and haven't felt any power increase, TBD on fuel economy.

Posted

Had a chance to check my mileage on a trip this past weekend. Mixture of interstate, highway, and city. (2012 crew cab with Max Trailering Pack.)

 

First tank almost all interstate: 16.0

 

Second tank interstate, highway, and city: 14.1

 

Third tank interstate and highway: 16.9

Posted

Anyone going to try Maganflow's catback p/n 15121? I've run Magnaflow kits on my last 2 trucks but have to wait for a screaming deal to pull the trigger on this one. BTW, I switched from 87 octane to 93 octane and haven't felt any power increase, TBD on fuel economy.

 

 

Save your money and just buy the muffler #12909. It will fit with a little modification.

Posted

OK after 3700 miles and a fresh tank of 91 octane fuel I tested the MPG's with my 6.2 and 3.42 gears and drove around 200 miles and got 18.3 MPG according to the DIC. It is the best MPG's I have had yet!!

  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone going to try Maganflow's catback p/n 15121? I've run Magnaflow kits on my last 2 trucks but have to wait for a screaming deal to pull the trigger on this one. BTW, I switched from 87 octane to 93 octane and haven't felt any power increase, TBD on fuel economy.

 

 

Save your money and just buy the muffler #12909. It will fit with a little modification.

 

 

Thanks for the p/n. Any soundclips online with just the muffler (no headers)? Came up empty on a search. What kind of mods are needed with the muffler only swap? I'm sure my local exhaust shop can handle it, just like to give them a heads up.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Out with the old and in with the new Guys and Gals. Well I was happy with my ext-cab truck but that was until my baby girl was born on the 16th of May, now it baby seats wife in the back, and all the rest that goes with it LOL. I am picking up my new 2012 silverado Texas Edition CC on Monday 6-27-2012, with a few more options chosen this time but I am sticking with the 6.2 L as I really enjoy having it in my ext-cab 2011 silverado. There is just not enough room in a Ext-Cab, it only took me 2-3 trys loading the baby up w/car seat and I said to heck with that and went shopping on line and visited a few dealerships for best price and deal I could get and settled on a White CC that I will transfer all my mods over to as soon as I get it. and post picture soon.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Checked my mileage again this past weekend while towing a 6' X 10' enclosed trailer. A bit over 200 miles each direction. Running 76 mph - 77 mph into a headwind going I got 8.7 mpg. eek.gif Coming back I drove 74 mph - 75 mph and had a slight tail wind. Got 9.8 mpg. frown.gif Not good at all considering how little weight I was hauling. Going to be "interesting" to see what I get when I tie onto my 7' X 16' enclosed trailer....

Edited by David_L6
Posted

Checked my mileage again this past weekend while towing a 6' X 10' enclosed trailer. A bit over 200 miles each direction. Running 76 mph - 77 mph into a headwind going I got 8.7 mpg. eek.gif Coming back I drove 74 mph - 75 mph and had a slight tail wind. Got 9.8 mpg. frown.gif Not good at all considering how little weight I was hauling. Going to be "interesting" to see what I get when I tie onto my 7' X 16' enclosed trailer....

 

 

Wind will kill your mileage, even more then the trailer I bet. This past Satuday I drove about 150 miles, unloaded, with about a 15-20 mph hour cross wind, and while driving around 70 I was getting a little under 14 according to the DIC. On the way back last night, driving about 69 on interstate with no wind I was getting about 17.5 according to the DIC

Posted

Does anyone know if the vette servo works on the 6.2 with the 6 speed auto? From what info I found it seems that most are for the old 4 speed auto? Also I plan on getting a BB tune down the road after some other mods are done but didn't know if the vette servo is really worth it if I get the same results from a BB tune down the road. But what gear range does the vette servo apply too? I hear a lot about torque management with a BB tune and wondering if the vette servo does the same thing in terms of torque management? Thanks in advance!

Posted (edited)

No servo on the 6 speed.

 

Got 14.5 mpg pulling my 2100 lb pop-up camper and about 500 lbs of additional cargo running 75 mph over a 300 mile road trip this past weekend and I was bucking 15-20 MPH winds up and back.

 

Edit:

Oh and the a/c was on too.

Edited by ChevyTech77

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...