Jump to content

Flushing 06 Allsion trans.


Recommended Posts

Posted

I went to dealer today and asked about flushing the auto trans on my 06 Duromax. All they can do is drain pain and refill and change filter. they sais this would replace only about have the fluid. it has 60,000 on truck. Would I be better to find someone who can do a complete flush with a machine.? Also is much of a job to replace seal where shiftine rod goes into auto trans.? Thanks for any help.

Posted

A pan drain and refill is the Allison recommended and approved atf changeout procedure. That being said, the ATF can still be changed out via the atf cooler line and that will likely remove 95+% of the oid atf at one time. Sorry I can't help with the shaft seal question.

 

DEWFPO

Posted

i believe the shifter shaft seal is removed with a special tool and installed with a special tool,

 

maybe a currant tech can copy and paste the SI for you ,ive been out of gm a few years and have no access anymore

Posted

Firstly, as DEWFPO said, but I would like to emphasize, DON'T FLUSH AN ALLISON WITH A MACHINE. This might be the #1 way to destroy it. I'll leave it to you to research further if you want to know everything it can screw up. For once, the dealer the was right.

 

Over a year ago, on another forum, I posted like this quote from the Allison website. The webpage may or may not still exist:

Effective January 1, 2007, General Motors no longer licenses DEXRON ®-III fluids. DEXRON ®-VI fluids may be used in the 1000 and 2000 Product Families transmissions beginning with S/N 6310670488 and 6320784373; . .

 

As I understand it, the 3rd digit is where the transmission was manufactured (or maybe the 1 is for the 1000 and 2 for the 2000?), so you would have to check the s/n cutoff using either the 631... or 632... range. I don't have the quote, but some of the seals in the older transmissions might not hold up with extended use of Dex VI.

 

GM claims that Dex VI is backwards compatible and can be used for most Dex III applications. "Dexron III" no longer exists because GM retired all licensing of that name. If I understood the Allison site, Allison has a spec they call TES 389 for fluids formerly known as Dex III, but those oil producers would have to apply for that spec to be on their label, and few have. There is a Mobil 1 ATF that says "for use in 2005 and older GM", which I assume is the same old Dex-III ATF that it use to say on the label.

 

2006 was the year where the serial number cutoff occurred. Before the cutoff, GM says "use Dex VI", Allison says "don't". Your choice. Also, since you have a 2006, you have to crawl under it, find the serial number tag, and see if you are pre- or post- Dex VI compatible.

 

BUT, for more $$ you can use an Allison spec'd TES-295 ATF (like Castrol Transynd or Mobil Delvac ATF which is different from Mobil1 ATF), which is a superior choice to anything else, and most people notice the difference. You can only get a TES-295 at a truck shop. (There might be a Deere TES-295 but I don't know what it's called.) In my area it's $40/gal. and it takes about 7.5 qts for a simple drain/fill. Also, the proper fill level is at or very near the BOTTOM of the "Hot" hashed area on the dipstick when the trans temp is 170*F. Otherwise, you find the transmission runs hotter than normal.

Posted

From a GM release

 

Dexron III is being phased out as a product name. It is being renamed Manual Transmission Fluid and carries p/n 88861800 U.S. (88861801 Canada).

 

 

Posted

50k service is to drain from pan, change filter and fill. If you are worried that is not enough Allison’s recommendations to switch their transynd is to drain and change filter and fill. Drive about 100 miles, drain and fill again. No filter change on second drain. If switching to transynd Allison says you are now good to 100k on fluid. Sticking with GM fluid, drain, fill and forget about it. When was the last time you heard of an Allison failing?

Posted

Going the route the dealer said would be the way to go. It has low miles on it and that would get a good start on changing the fluid out. You can always do like posted above and drive it for a while and just drain the pan again and refill without changing the filter.

 

Another option for fluid is AMSOIL's ATF fluid which is for your application as well.

Posted

If you change your own fluid, use the transmission return line from the radiator. Drain the pan. Replace the external filter and be careful to clean and

replace the circular magnet. Replace pan bolt. Fill the transmission with correct fluid. Remove the return line clip and pull the return line from the transmission body and take the steel line and attach a two foot rubber hose (5/8in)into a 2.5 gallon bucket (preferably a clear container). Mark the bucket in half gallon increments. Place the hose into the bucket and have another person start the engine. Allow about two gallons of fluid to exit the hose. Stop and refill the transmission. Start the engine a second time and have the second person move the gear selector through the gears. Watch the fluid color. Very quickly, 2 gallons removed, the fluid will change cherry red. Stop the process. Replace the return line and clip. Refill the transmission to the correct fill line. With a clear, red fluid color, you will have changed all the transmission and converter fluid. Good luck!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,717
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Tiffanyrose
    Newest Member
    Tiffanyrose
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,112 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I tried tapping it.  This might sound like a dumb question, you should feel vibration or some type of noise when it turns on? Can someone please verify? Thank you all!
    • I feel better now for my own view point and actions or lack there of towards the dealership service theme reading your post and others. GM corporate is who offers the two free oil changes on the HD trucks and I bought my truck in Feb of 2025 and those oil change offers run out within 2 years I believe and I highly doubt I will be using either one of them. I had asked if I could officially give those free services to another customer ( a friend ) and they said no, its all a GM corporate thing based on the vehicle in question. What that service advisor did however was go into a little story about how such and such customer was denied engine warranty because he had done his own oil changes because then they are not documented ... you see where that goes and so an employee playing the game of scaring the customer into having the service work done there most certainly triggered my thought process. At a later date I did talk to the person who handles warranty claims at the dealership and she said to be sure to document the oil changes and keep receipts for the oil and filter ( coped the receipts from cases of Mobil oil and case of filters I bought from them ) and the vehicles VIN, the date of service, mileage etc and staple that together as a record I would give them if that was ever needed and I keep my own log book for services for each vehicle as well. Oh and about 8 months after I bought the truck the dealer starts calling me to offer a maintenance service since they haven't seen my vehicle show up on their system ... for the mere fee of 300.00 Canadian to change the oil and rotate the tires and a few other minor checks and I declined the offer, I get the call again a couple of months later for the same thing and she could tell I was not interested and she asked if they should take my name off the call list and I said yes, do that !.    By the way did you happen to keep your factory oil filter to open it up and see the surprises inside as I expect some will show up as per the odd little sliver of metal shaving and particles that the filter does trap along with bits of grey silicone sealer that come off of the inside edge of mating surfaces. I have cut open every filter so far on my truck although few miles but have changed the oil often and the second filter was vastly better with very little of anything, that first filter was the unsettling one as I expected it would be. 
    • I get why they do this…but man…not ideal. I only extract on inboard boat engines because the drains are buried and even then I hate it because it’s easy to leave a quart behind with that method.   They should market it as an “oil refresh” not oil change!
    • I only get oil changed where I can watch. Valvoline pulls through the dipstick into a see thru glass. When done they show me the dipstick. About the only way they can mess up is using the wrong oil. But that secret wouldn’t stay secret long. Honda uses TQ wrenches on everything. You can watch through a plate glass window. Discount tires does that with tires. Trust but verify. 
    • I would not argue that with you. It would be pointless to argue against the truth and you speak the truth.    My question and in fact the entire point of this thread is an exploration into the levers of wear which happens no matter how well we maintain our powertrains.    Some of these levers we exert a good deal of influence over which can and do result is lower wear, longer powertrain life. Some others we are sort of stuck with.    An engine is typically done when the ring to bore seal no longer is able to do the job effectively. Normally the first thing to go in a engine otherwise well maintained and adult driven is this seal.    Looking into the means, methods, products and attitudes that influence the rate of wear seems a worthwhile inquiry to me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...