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Decided on gettin the truck camm'd!!!


Carder09

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Well I went ahead and emailed comp cams with all my info and what they recommended for is

I can make it out from you. Thank you for the information and what you do. I would go 54-426-11 Duration @ .050 222/224 Lift is .566/.568 with a 112 LSA. This gives you a great power range 1800-6800 as well as the 112 LSA gives you some sound at idle

1 54-426-11 CAMSHAFT, LS1 XR275HR-12

16 850 LIFTER,SB/LT/LS OE-TYPE HYD RLR FULL TRV

16 * 26918 VALVE SPRING, HIGH PERFORMANCE GM LS1

16 774 STEEL RETAINER, FOR 26915 & 26918 SPRING

16 623 VALVE LOCK, HI PERF FOR GM LS1

16 511 VALVE SEAL, VITON GM LS1 .313 X .562

The only other thing you need will be pushrods 7955-16 The cost for the kit and pushrods are $1067. And I can cover shipping to the lower 48 states.

I can also put a military discount on top of that.

This is what he is recommending for me, im not looking for ball insane performance just something that will make this truck get up and go when I want it too, so yall think this is a good set up? I emailed him back asking if I should go ahead and swap the TC, and he said no the stock one will do but any input on this before I give the go ahead will help me, I have a few months till im back in the states, Deployed, so I have plenty of time to decide otherwise.

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For the sight impaired: :D

 

I can make it out from you. Thank you for the information and what you do. I would go 54-426-11 Duration @ .050 222/224 Lift is .566/.568 with a 112 LSA. This gives you a great power range 1800-6800 as well as the 112 LSA gives you some sound at idle

 

1 54-426-11 CAMSHAFT, LS1 XR275HR-12

16 850 LIFTER,SB/LT/LS OE-TYPE HYD RLR FULL TRV

16 * 26918 VALVE SPRING, HIGH PERFORMANCE GM LS1

16 774 STEEL RETAINER, FOR 26915 & 26918 SPRING

16 623 VALVE LOCK, HI PERF FOR GM LS1

16 511 VALVE SEAL, VITON GM LS1 .313 X .562

 

 

The only other thing you need will be pushrods 7955-16 The cost for the kit and pushrods are $1067. And I can cover shipping to the lower 48 states.

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Thats a pretty big cam for a stock tc i would recommend atleast a 3000 stall.Pretty good cam,i still like the TR's though or the TSP's.Take a look around first,Just put the TR228 in my buddy's truck this past weekend with a 3200 stall.Pulls extremely hard but might need more stall and 410s or 456s.

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I am running a Texas speed 220R 112 lsa in a stock converter. That is really pushing it and is a great grind. 224 with a 112....your cinvertor is not going to like that much at all. The lobe separation plays a big factor. Get a second opinion before you spend that amount if cash. Give Texas speed a call.

 

Remember this is a truck and there is more weight to push than a car with the same grind. Makes a big difference with converter ans gear selection

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Sweet well Ill add it to the list! Hoping to budget the ugrades to a max of 2k so this will push the bill a tad higher but not too bad, Im also wanting to do this all by myself or with a friend but is swapping the TC difficult? I've done a tranny and TC swap once before on an old nissan pathfinder and it was a PITA! Will this be the same?

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If you have 4wd it will be harder to remove the trans. 2wd will be easy. Since you are also doing the cam swap, if it were me, I would pull the engine to do the cam swap and swap the tc. Either the engine or the trans has to be removed to change tc. Changing a cam does not require engine removal, but, it is easier with engine out.

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Alright cool, luckily my buddy has an cherry picker so that will be no problem, and yes I do have a 2wd,for now. Also been in contact with Jake from Texas Speed so he is getting all the info from myself and what comp cams sent me to compare i guess

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Thanks for the soon to come help, Jake emailed me back saying that the cam comp cams is offering is a good cam, but they have had better results with their 220R cam so I told him to give me the quote on all the acc. and also told him I was getting the TC from them too so maybe he can package deal all of it or just discount

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I agree on pulling the motor out,The TC install is pretty easy i just rotate it back and forth and push it on to the input shaft until i hear 3 clicks.

 

 

I would suggest that when the engine is pulled, you (the OP) push in on the original TC and place a flat edge across the bellhouse opening. Using a ruler, measure how far the original TC is in from the flat edge you have placed across the opening. When you put the new TC in, make sure it is in at least as far as the original one. There are two "input" shafts that have to line up, and then the pump notches. Do not put the engine back in if the TC is not in at least as far as the original one. You cannot force it together, it must go together easily.

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I agree on pulling the motor out,The TC install is pretty easy i just rotate it back and forth and push it on to the input shaft until i hear 3 clicks.

 

 

I would suggest that when the engine is pulled, you (the OP) push in on the original TC and place a flat edge across the bellhouse opening. Using a ruler, measure how far the original TC is in from the flat edge you have placed across the opening. When you put the new TC in, make sure it is in at least as far as the original one. There are two "input" shafts that have to line up, and then the pump notches. Do not put the engine back in if the TC is not in at least as far as the original one. You cannot force it together, it must go together easily.

 

Alright thanks!

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