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While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out. The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and.... My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund. Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake. -
By No F-bdy Bs · Posted
Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles. Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over. I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail. Truck is 100% stock. No damage. -
This can be done. It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness. The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right The problem with doing all of this? You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again. The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with. So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates. TLDR; Should have bought an LT double cab? You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab. -
I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me. -
Yes. The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management. It is NOT the same as the V8s. Totally different system. Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system. Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain": New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink This is an internet myth going around. It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM. The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN. The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM. The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code. At all.
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