Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Wow, she was broiling! Might be as simple as a leaky coolant cap - if the system can't hold pressure, there's no way it'll keep coolant inside her at anything above 212°F.

 

I've watched my '72 El Camino's mechanical temp gauge swing to 260° once in a McD's drive-thru in Phoenix. Didn't miss a beat, but I had just installed a new Stant Lev-R-Vent cap at the time. Pressure raises the boiling point significantly. I believe it's 10° for every 1 PSI if memory serves correctly ...

Posted

Wow, she was broiling! Might be as simple as a leaky coolant cap - if the system can't hold pressure, there's no way it'll keep coolant inside her at anything above 212°F.

 

I've watched my '72 El Camino's mechanical temp gauge swing to 260° once in a McD's drive-thru in Phoenix. Didn't miss a beat, but I had just installed a new Stant Lev-R-Vent cap at the time. Pressure raises the boiling point significantly. I believe it's 10° for every 1 PSI if memory serves correctly ...

Look at that hose picture a little closer

Posted (edited)

I thought that was the result of the broiling temps?

 

So your saying the hose failed and CAUSED the temp to go sky high? If so, I misread.

 

Great idea from GM to use plastic- fantastic ...

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

I don't know what happened first. I was inside the house. I can't push the thermostat open like other I have had.

Posted (edited)

Yeah, it could've stuck. Doesn't happen often, but definitely can happen.

 

Hopefully you caught it soon enough that your head gaskets are still intact. Sounds like you probably did, since it wasn't under a load, and just idling.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

No. I'm going thinking that thermostat is dead. I can't get it to pop. Even with heat

Posted

Ahh, 10-4.

 

Thought the block was the same right from the beginning. Shows what I know. Par for the course today - seems GM can't keep anything the same anymore, even year to year.

 

I'll take the 350 any day - at least I know when I grab a part for that one, it will fit. That one used the same parts for over 30 years. :)

Working on that 4th gen was maddening. Every frikin part is attached with different sized bolts, I think I had 6 or 7 different sockets out just to do the oil pan. Are the 900s the same way? I didn't keep mine long enough to find out, once the electrical stuff started it was over for me.

Posted (edited)

I'll let you know when my AFM lifters fail. :lol:

 

Luckily I haven't put a wrench on the engine yet, aside from changing the spark plugs, intake, and PVC catch can install. Hopefully it stays that way ... but history of the LMG shows my chances of that are slim to none.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

Changed the oil with a wix filter and Schaeffer 9000, greased the tie rod ends. Now to schedule the trans fluid change and filter.

Posted (edited)

Got my oil analysis back. The trend confirms my engine's decline began a couple years ago.

 

90k miles! THANKS GM! Nice F#%&ing job on that one!! :mad::mad::mad:

 

 

The wear metals tell me it's more than likely the cam bearings - been seeing alot of those types of failures in these AFM engines across the net. Also piston rings add to the iron content, and pistons to the aluminum. Seems the aluminum content has gone down since I switched to 10w-30. Was high on my first analysis.

 

Glad I didn't use this thing to commute the entire 10 years I've owned it - would've needed an engine back in 2011! :sick:

 

fullsizeoutput_8a1_zpsii5qiran.jpeg

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

Took my truck to the tire shop the other day had them unmount the tires and I scooped the balancing beads out. Then they mounted and balanced them. Truck rides better but still not good enough. I can deal with stiff suspension but out of balance and shimmy I can't. Watched some YouTube videos yesterday and talked to a coworker last night. Came home and jacked the truck up. I can love the front tires side to side but not up and down. I guess it's time to replace some parts. I'll get my neighbor to come over and confirm since I'm mechanically dumb. If something is bad the hopefully that'll take care of the front end problems I feel, then I can move on to the back end.

 

Sent from my Find7 using Tapatalk

Posted

Oil change today just under 72K

 

e74f8d12b3b1d55c053116e297f41876.jpg

 

Drain plug before cleaning

 

e8f674797e9368ffcffbc24be4fecd73.jpg

 

Drain plug after cleaning

 

b8eeb21064d898365cead800da527230.jpg

 

Oil analysis sent off

 

e8cf6047905b6595ebb1ffec33f00487.jpg

 

 

 

Ryan B.

Posted

Oil change today just under 72K

 

e74f8d12b3b1d55c053116e297f41876.jpg

 

Drain plug before cleaning

 

e8f674797e9368ffcffbc24be4fecd73.jpg

 

Drain plug after cleaning

 

b8eeb21064d898365cead800da527230.jpg

 

Oil analysis sent off

 

e8cf6047905b6595ebb1ffec33f00487.jpg

 

 

 

Ryan B.

plug looks just a little cleaner :thumbs:

Posted

put my truck in the garage because vacation is over and now it's time to drive he work car.. :(

Posted

Had my neighbor come over and look at my front end with me. Only thing he recommended was cranking the torsion bar on the passenger side to raise it up 1/4" to make it level with the driver's side. Is the steering wheel supposed to lock, mine doesn't. I know my 2500HDs locked with the key out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...