Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Sometimes my amperage gauge will drop to about 10 or 12 but it usually stays a little over 14. Is there something going wrong? I don't have any amplifiers or anything extra that would pull a load on the electrical system. I did an alternator and battery test and everything was fine. Here are pics.

 

It was actually lower than this but by the time I snapped a pic it had started going back up.

B801AF02-40C5-44AA-B67C-C025C96A900C-7830-000004FCF2392F9B.jpg

 

And normal

 

977FDD57-FC70-46FB-BA16-09894FE41DEE-7830-000004FCEB376005.jpg

Posted

Mine does that too. I have a 2009 Silverado with a 5.3 L engine. I would like to know also.

Posted (edited)

Normal operation. Read your manual, it's supposedly more efficient this way.

Edited by MikeNH
  • Like 1
Posted

The alternator in these newer vehicles are what is called "free wheeling" that is to say when the battery is fully charged, the alternator "disingages" via a clutch so even though it is connected to the serpentine belt, it is not causing any drag on the system, thus the gas savings. I PERSONALLY DO NOT SEE A GAS SAVINGS ON MY VEHICLE.

Posted
The alternator in these newer vehicles are what is called "free wheeling" that is to say when the battery is fully charged, the alternator "disingages" via a clutch so even though it is connected to the serpentine belt, it is not causing any drag on the system, thus the gas savings. I PERSONALLY DO NOT SEE A GAS SAVINGS ON MY VEHICLE.

 

Not quite. No clutch or any fancy stuff, it just backs off the output.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

The alternator in these newer vehicles are what is called "free wheeling" that is to say when the battery is fully charged, the alternator "disingages" via a clutch so even though it is connected to the serpentine belt, it is not causing any drag on the system, thus the gas savings. I PERSONALLY DO NOT SEE A GAS SAVINGS ON MY VEHICLE.

 

 

Every .0001 of a gallon counts when you try to beat the C.A.F.E. ratings

Posted (edited)

The alternator in these newer vehicles are what is called "free wheeling" that is to say when the battery is fully charged, the alternator "disingages" via a clutch so even though it is connected to the serpentine belt, it is not causing any drag on the system, thus the gas savings. I PERSONALLY DO NOT SEE A GAS SAVINGS ON MY VEHICLE.

 

 

Every .0001 of a gallon counts when you try to beat the C.A.F.E. ratings

 

 

Point well taken :)

Edited by Gurrzt
Posted

It is called Regulated Voltage Control . :)

 

 

And there are 6 different states of it, according to my Helm manuals.

Posted

I'm just curious as to why my voltage starting "dropping" after a couple of years of driving. The voltmeter was always constant at ~14 volts then one day it just started dropping and raising and has ever since. I'm always scanning my gauges, pet peeve of mine. I found out it was normal operation but to not see it happen until after a couple of years driving???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Why don't I have a good scanner? I've always wanted one when I've needed one.   My latest reading says I don't need to do a relearn on the ckp sensor on a 1995 with OBD 1.5. The relearn is prescribed for the later-model 1995's which shipped with actual OBD II when GM completed the transition in prep for the 1996 MY. I need to confirm that. Did you know forums are disappearing? Knuckleheads on Facebook... it's not the same. It's just not.   So, scanners. Again, shooting myself in the foot for having eBayed my Snap On MT2500 "brick" with all the adapters. Not that I couldn't buy another but those are getting quite old, and mine wasn't new enough to work on 2000's vehicles.   Damn it (as I'm scanning my email between paragraphs here). Did you know there's a 2000 Jimmy 2-door on BaT that's ending this morning? It's local. I want it. 14k miles. Absolutely beautiful.   Back to scanners. MT2500's are old. Solus, now that could be a contender. There's a ~2008 Verus with a system error that's basically new in box for cheap. Hmm...I'm not sure about a scanner that runs an archaic version of windows (95 or CE, I can't tell).   I want the ability to reset and rotate TPMS, test individual modules, bleed ABS, electronic parking brake controls for servicing brakes, relearn procedures and other bidirectional controls.   Snap On does an MT2600. It's a new model as of last year, marketed as their "entry" scanner. Entry? Only where $1900 gets you through the doorway plus, I'm guessing, $1000/year if you wish to keep it current. So goes scan tools actually designed for production environments. Want decent products with excellent support, you pay for it.   Everyone is raving about Autels and TopDons and Foxconns and all these newer brands that are selling the $500 "prosumer" scanners for backyard hacks like me. They're tempting...honestly. Updates are cheaper, base prices are remarkably cheaper... And you get to deal with bugs and translation whoopsies and, well, just don't use it on anything expensive, OK? Having a dealer replace an ECU because it needs to be re-imaged after an adventure in scanning is no joke. But I think most people are getting by OK with these units.   eBay on a scratch-and-sniff pro-model oldie, a shiny new TopDon, or???   God dang it, I can't stop looking at this Jimmy. I'm ready! I'll Bring The TRailer! It's beautiful.
    • I removed the OE running boards.  It looked so much better.  I wish I took them off a long time ago.     I had to put something back on for my wife.  I wanted Westin Sure Grip Running Boards but they are very pricey, like $600 plus.  I was going to go with the Ionic 41's like I had on the 2019 Silverado but went with Westin Outlaw Drop Steps instead, about $200 cheaper.  They are sturdy and functional but not super crazy about the look, but it works.  
    • It's all a crock of 💩
    • I had a Gen5DIY DRL relocate harness from a 2022 1500 that I saved. I had Gen5DIY modify the harness for my 2024 Silverado 2500. Plug n Play, worked perfectly.    Here's a video I made for the 2022 1500 truck. The install is more or less the same on a 2500.    The harness relocates the DRL tot he top amber turn signal on my 2500.     
    • Can ask that about a lot of places.   Holiday sells 91 for $1 over 87 octane. BP 93 is 80 cents. Amoco 93 is 80 cents Kwik Trips is $1.20 for 92 or whatever they have and $1 for the 91.   I know that this is not exactly same as what you are saying with the premium to premium debate of those two stations but why is there such a difference. Top Tier this and that, it's all BS. All the fuel comes from the same damn refinery, so give me a break.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...