Jump to content

E load range tires


slimjim2525

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a question about e load range tires. I have the truck in my sig. I just had michelin LTX A/T 2 tires load range e put on. I chose e load because i sometimes put a fair amount of weight in the truck and tow a trailer that can be swayed by the wind and wanted a stiffer sidewall. They put them on and noticed they only put 36psi in there. I went back and told them that I thought e load should have around 80 psi. They put the tires up to 60 psi because "they forgot" and immediately my TPMS starts flashing and now I get a service TPMS signal with the yellow tire symbol on in the dash. I showed them this and they told me the TPMS would equilabrate over time. Drove it home and no change. Questions are. Can I put a e load range tire on a 1500? If so do I need to wait and will the tpms equilibrate? Do I need an ecu flash if that's posible. Do I need different tires? Help from gm techs or tire guys is greatly appreciated.

Posted

yes you can put E load range on your truck. No the tpms will not adjust. You should be running what's in your door tag for pressure. (i keep mine around 40psi) GM MAY or may not change yours to a higher rate since the HD obviously has the higher rated values in the computer. You can either run them at 40 and inflate more for towing and deal with the light only when towing. deal with the light always. convince gm to change the values. or go back to a lower rated tire, which will still have a higher psi rating on the tire than will actually be in it.

 

I run E rated tires inflated to 40psi with no lights.

Posted

35-40 psi is about right for e's on a half ton. If you need to inflate them more than that you may be overloading the truck. If you do need to inflate them more, do it. But without a load the ride will be awful at 80 psi. I used to run the e's on my old truck at 25, and they still wore more evenly than most.

Posted

OK i get it. I traded a 2500HD in for this truck, and always had e load range tires at 80 psi on my 2500. I thought they had to be at that psi. I will lower them to 40 psi. Do you still get the benefit of the stiffer sidewall at the lower psi?

Posted

Yes the sidewall has more plys than p rated tires so will be stiffer. I've been driving with E rated for about 3 years now with no wear issues. I run them at 40 lbs but when hauling or have a heavy load in my bed will go up to 50 lbs or so. My warning light doesn't come on till it goes above 50 lbs. The dealer can change it so it won't come on till higher pressures but you really shouldn't need it. Make sure you rotate regularly and you will be fine.

Posted

I dropped them to 40 lbs and I still have the service tpms on start up. When I try to look at the tire pressures it just shows two lines. Could the tpm sensors be damaged? I tried to disconnect the battery and it still has the warning on the DIC. Any suggestions??

Posted

I just looked at my onstar from my phone and it says recommended 60 front and 75 rear....my rear are yellow and are 6 and 7 below...front shows good and are 3 and 4 below so it seems they go off at 5 below....maybe the lines are because tours are so low from the recommended

 

Sent from my Motorola Xyboard

Posted

I run E's on a half ton for the exact same reasons as the OP. And it was successful.

 

Currently, I run about 50psi on all four tires. I have tried 65 on fronts, 80 on tears, and I got hemorrhoids from that ride.

 

I love my E tires. Fixed my trailer issues.

Posted

As stated, E range tires are fine on a 1500. I've been running them for two years now. However, there is no reason to ever have the max psi in them. You only need the max psi when you're hauling the max amout of weight the tires are rated to handle.....which shouldn't be done with E's on a 1500 anyway. As far as your TPMS goes...it won't fix itself. That dealer is full of poop. You can try resetting them first. If that doesn't work, take it to a dealer. I had the dealer set the 'magic number' on mine to 45 psi. That way, I can run 38-40 normally, and bump it up to 50-52 when towing....and the TPMS is always happy. Good luck.

Posted

TPMS = PITA!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,724
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    No1UKnow
    Newest Member
    No1UKnow
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,150 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My take: I don't think seeing up to 200k on the odometer of any of these engines/trucks (2014-to present) is surprising. (Excluding the known DEFECTS, specifically, the 6.2 main/connecting rod bearing issues, the defective lifters, alternatively parts that a recall was issued for - I think there were three.)   250K is my line in the sand, anything over that is 'surprising', but not limited to the engine making it that far but including the truck surrounding it too. (We've talked about this in other posts, why I think the engine isn't the deciding factor for ultimate mileage.)
    • I included the first gen-cylinder de-activation (active fuel management) in my statement.
    • Hello All!   My 2019 Colorado 3.6 LT, 4WD Crew Cab has approximately 77,500 miles and I recently began experiencing the well-known transmission shudder between about 30 and 65 mph. The problem had worsened to the point that I could no longer attribute it to road conditions - and I had decided to bring the truck to the dealer - when recently, I experienced a sudden loss of power while driving at maybe 40 MPH. Several warning lights flashed, the “Check Stabilitrack” message appeared, and the Check Engine, Stabilitrack, and Traction Control icons remained illuminated. The truck regained driving power, but it stayed in a low gear with unusually high RPMs for the speed. (limp mode?) Because I was only about two miles from home, driving slowly, I was able to make it back and run an OBD-II scan, which showed fault codes U0101, P0700, and U0100. My next trip in the truck was to drive it to the dealer the following day. That trip began normally, but after about a mile I experienced another loss of power, along with the same warning lights and the same “Check Stabilitrack” message. As before the truck remained driveable, but again operated at an abnormally high RPM-to-speed ratio and seemed stuck in a single gear. About a mile later, the dashboard lit up once more, this time displaying “Check 4WD.” Soon after that, I arrived at the dealer. I have verified that the truck still has its original factory transmission fluid, which means it has never received the corrective fluid exchange outlined in GM Technical Service Bulletin #18-NA-355.  That was Thursday of last week and I've heard nothing yet from the dealer.    According to Technical Service Bulletin #18-NA-355 and the build date of my truck, my truck should have the newer LV fluid. I've done a little research and read something about a problem with the wiring harness as well.   Anyone have an insights into this situation?  Thank you!!
    • Having bumper and other body damages can be very frustrating, especially as a result of a parking lot collision/bump. Our team wants to learn more about the damages to your truck so we can look into ways we might be able to help. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with more details: https://s.gmc.com/support-request . A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available. We want to get you enjoying your truck to the fullest again. 
    • Did you even read this article?   Even the title of the article says "U.S.-Iran Deal Doesn’t Mean a Swift Return of Oil and Gas Flows"   Remember, crude oil prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the oil companies.  Gas prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the station.  This article stated that many of the oil producing nations have to restart their processes to get the oil produced.  Then the oil has to be shipped to wherever.  And it doesn't get there overnight.  And most of that oil is not coming here. Check out this site:  https://afdc.energy.gov/data/10621   A graph will pop up to show where the US imports their oil from.  Notice that there isn't a lot of import from OPEC and Iraq.  Most of the US import comes from Canada. The US oil produces are selling their oil on the open market, which is why the US fuel costs went up.  So you're correct, the US oil companies are going to slow walk the price downward.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...