Jump to content

Heated Seat Install


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just installed the 19159306 heated seat kit (for SLT dashes) in my 2012 SLE Sierra All Terrain. I know that I have to have the dealer program the computer for the kit to work, but my question is; are the lights on the buttons that you push for the seat heaters to come supposed to light up (like they normally would) before the dealer programs the computer? The reason I ask is because the instructions have installation instructions (labeled pickup trucks: has picture of SLE dash and SUVs: pictures SLT dash) for SLE/LT dashes as well as the SLT/LTZ dashes and you have to modify the junction box for the pickup truck version. I'm not sure if I should go by the SUV or Pickup truck instructions.

 

Just wondering if anyone had went through this install and could help me out. Thanks!

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

My SLE (in dash) switches would light up at night, with running lights on, but not turn on the heated seat module- Before the GM dealer programmed mine.

 

Make sure you bring the heated seat module pn# with you when you get your new heated seat kit programmed too

Posted
My SLE (in dash) switches would light up at night, with running lights on, but not turn on the heated seat module- Before the GM dealer programmed mine.

 

Make sure you bring the heated seat module pn# with you when you get your new heated seat kit programmed too

 

Thanks! I went ahead and moved the pins and clips like the instructions say to do for a pickup truck and made sure it's grounded. The lights in the door still aren't coming on, but I hope they will when programmed. Pip said that they didn't light up in his LT until it was programmed, so fingers crossed!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Took the truck to the dealer today and had them do the programming, but the heaters still don't work. I've rechecked the wiring multiple times and everything looks ok. I've wired it both ways - SUV only and pickup only and neither works. The tech could make the lights in the kit come on with his techII tool and when you press the buttons it would read active, but as soon as you let go it would switch back to inactive. I don't know what else to do.

 

Edit: another weird thing I found out this morning. It was 28° and when I used the remote start (multiple times) the seat heaters worked. The button still won't work the heaters but they were 100% on.

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Update:

 

Took the truck back to the dealer tonight and now everything is working!

 

For the SLE All Terrian Sierra (cloth seats, SLT/Denali dash) you have to follow the SUV only instructions. Disregard the pickup truck instructions where you have to move pins, etc. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THAT. Just tuck that part of the harness away.

 

The dealer will have to program the module and window switches AS WELL AS call GM tech support to have them write a program for the truck (VCI number). This is a known issue with GM evidently. As soon as the tech added the program to the truck everything worked perfectly.

 

PS: no lights on the switches will work until everything is programmed correctly. The seats would warm up with the remote start, but that's it. As soon as the key was turned, they would kick off.

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Posted

Thanks for responding back on your All-Terrain edition truck. I'm sure that will help someone else down the road.

 

The heated seats really are a nice feature- Heck, I'm thinking about adding the 2012 SUV heated steering wheel now to my Sierra SLE. :thumbs:

 

I can see why GM is offering the heated seat option (in production form) now for the NNBS 2014+ SLE/LT cloth seat trucks.

Posted

Thanks for responding back on your All-Terrain edition truck. I'm sure that will help someone else down the road.

The heated seats really are a nice feature- Heck, I'm thinking about adding the 2012 SUV heated steering wheel now to my Sierra SLE. :thumbs:

I can see why GM is offering the heated seat option (in production form) now for the NNBS 2014+ SLE/LT cloth seat trucks.

 

 

The dealership I use went NUTS over my cloth heated seats with the OEM kit! They gave me such an attractive 'deal' on my 09' I felt Ihad to trade it in on my current 11'. That is the only thing I can think of, the 09' was a standard LT in other ways. When they listed it on their website they even called out the heated cloth 'OEM' style heated seats.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • 2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...