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Code P1637???

LongrangeLauber

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LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha, and that price displayed is just for the bracket. You still have to purchase alternators at that point! That would be about a 4k setup with high quality high output alternators

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Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Until I bought my Silverado, that was the going price of all the trucks I used to buy. :lol:

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

After 6 years of taxes, payments, registration, and insurance I can't even afford THAT! :lol:

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

For the $659.95 I would expect more than just threads in the plate. Every bolt that goes through the plate only has threads in the plate, no welded nut, or even a loose nut. Wonder where else they cut corners.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For the $659.95 I would expect more than just threads in the plate. Every bolt that goes through the plate only has threads in the plate, no welded nut, or even a loose nut. Wonder where else they cut corners.

 

 

you have a point. If you strip out that thread in the plate, then you gotta go get a longer bolt and nut. It don't matter to me, there's no way in hell I would need that kind of power output in my truck. It would be like another 100+ lbs. on the motor mounts too

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got the new belt. It just takes the belt for the 145 amp alt. It is a DC Power Engineering 300 SPX 300 amp

 

 

What year should I check for that alternator belt, I guess when they started putting electric fans in the trucks? I only see 130 amp alternator as the max for my year

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

You may want to just take the 200a alternator in and get the voltage regulator checked. Chances are that is what went on it since the error code is pointing right at the regulator once you have verified the circuit after the connector is good. No code on old alt shows that the circuit is good. Pretty muck only leaves the regulator. I have no idea what it costs though.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

2005 is when the 145 came standard

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's covered under warranty so I will just send it back and either get a replacement or my money back. I would love a decent alternator, but the one chawkins is suggesting is like $555

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

It's covered under warranty so I will just send it back and either get a replacement or my money back. I would love a decent alternator, but the one chawkins is suggesting is like $555

 

If it has a warranty, and if they honour the warranty, then you have a good alternator. If only crap products fail, there would be no need for warranty on the good stuff.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
Justin 99 Chevy S2500 6.0L New Member

Justin 99 Chevy S2500 6.0L

Posted
Posted

I have code P1637 - Generator 'L' Terminal Circuit Malfuntion from running diagnostics at O'Reillys.

 

QUICK BACKGROUND - 1999 Chevy Silv 2500 2WD 6.0L, 268,000 miles, just bought it & started driving it one month ago. Battery was dead so I bought a brand new one. Has been running fine since then, until last week when the following happened:

While driving 70 MPH on interstate, suddenly all gauges, radio, etc., ALL power suddenly died (had not noticed voltimeter was ever below 14 prior to this. I might have been, but I didn't notice.) Truck continued running about another mile, then died. Immediately assumed alternator was bad, so I replaced the battery with a brand new one, then replaced the alternator with a brand new one as well. BTW, my truck takes the 105AMP alternator, not the 130AMP alternator. After installing brand new alternator, truck ran fine for 2 days, except for a whining noise coming from the alternator, but power & voltage were okay.

 

On day 3 the same exact thing started (gauges died, then truck died). I drove straight to O'Reillys with the juice I had left. They charged the new battery, and tested the new alternator. The test indicated that the new alternator IS NOT DISTRIBUTING ANY POWER.

 

Then they ran diagnostics & gave me the P1637 code above. Apparently there is a short to ground or short to charge somewhere between the alternator and the PCM/computer. I was told I could probably pay to have a mechanic run more specific testing. Before doing that, I'm trying to troubleshoot myself & save money. This website http://www.ls2.com/boggs/dtcs/DTC%20P1637.htmgives specific troubleshooting instructions.

 

However, I am now stumped, because I don't know where the hell to look for some of this shit:

 

STEP 4:

  1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the generator.
  2. Start the engine.
  3. Measure the voltage to ground at the generator harness connector terminal B using the DMM. Refer to Measuring Voltage in Wiring Systems. Is the voltage the same or more than the value specified?

STEP 5:

  1. Turn OFF the ignition.
  2. Disconnect the PCM connector C2. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming .
  3. Test for continuity from the generator circuit at the PCM harness connector to the B terminal of the generator harness connector using the DMM. Refer to Testing for Continuity in Wiring Systems. Does the DMM indicate continuity?

MY QUESTIONS:

Where's the generator harness?

Is the positive red wire (small/fat gauge) running off the alternator post the "B terminal?"

Where's the PCM on this truck?

Where's the wiring harness on this truck?

What is the DMM?

 

P.S. I have access to lots of tools, and a multi-tester that is capable of testing continuity. Also, I can post any pics.

 

HELP PLEASE! THANKS!

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

I have code P1637 - Generator 'L' Terminal Circuit Malfuntion from running diagnostics at O'Reillys.

 

QUICK BACKGROUND - 1999 Chevy Silv 2500 2WD 6.0L, 268,000 miles, just bought it & started driving it one month ago. Battery was dead so I bought a brand new one. Has been running fine since then, until last week when the following happened:

While driving 70 MPH on interstate, suddenly all gauges, radio, etc., ALL power suddenly died (had not noticed voltimeter was ever below 14 prior to this. I might have been, but I didn't notice.) Truck continued running about another mile, then died. Immediately assumed alternator was bad, so I replaced the battery with a brand new one, then replaced the alternator with a brand new one as well. BTW, my truck takes the 105AMP alternator, not the 130AMP alternator. After installing brand new alternator, truck ran fine for 2 days, except for a whining noise coming from the alternator, but power & voltage were okay.

 

On day 3 the same exact thing started (gauges died, then truck died). I drove straight to O'Reillys with the juice I had left. They charged the new battery, and tested the new alternator. The test indicated that the new alternator IS NOT DISTRIBUTING ANY POWER.

 

Then they ran diagnostics & gave me the P1637 code above. Apparently there is a short to ground or short to charge somewhere between the alternator and the PCM/computer. I was told I could probably pay to have a mechanic run more specific testing. Before doing that, I'm trying to troubleshoot myself & save money. This website http://www.ls2.com/boggs/dtcs/DTC%20P1637.htmgives specific troubleshooting instructions.

 

However, I am now stumped, because I don't know where the hell to look for some of this shit:

 

STEP 4:

  • Disconnect the electrical connector from the generator.
  • Start the engine.
  • Measure the voltage to ground at the generator harness connector terminal B using the DMM. Refer to Measuring Voltage in Wiring Systems. Is the voltage the same or more than the value specified?
STEP 5:
  • Turn OFF the ignition.
  • Disconnect the PCM connector C2. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming .
  • Test for continuity from the generator circuit at the PCM harness connector to the B terminal of the generator harness connector using the DMM. Refer to Testing for Continuity in Wiring Systems. Does the DMM indicate continuity?
MY QUESTIONS:

Where's the generator harness?

Is the positive red wire (small/fat gauge) running off the alternator post the "B terminal?"

Where's the PCM on this truck?

Where's the wiring harness on this truck?

What is the DMM?

 

P.S. I have access to lots of tools, and a multi-tester that is capable of testing continuity. Also, I can post any pics.

 

HELP PLEASE! THANKS!

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