Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a stock 2007 Silverado 4x4 LT with a 5.3l FlexFuel that I purchased new.

 

Six years and 65K miles later, it's not the young whipper-snapper it used to be, but I've been good about proper maintenance, and it shows. No CELs, all original paint, no issues whatsoever.

 

Except after six years I feel like it's a bit sluggish, with considerably less power than I remember it having when it was new.

 

I looked in the owner's manual for a maintenance schedule or something similar, but was unable to find anything.

 

What would be the recommended items to service at 65K miles/6 years?

post-40338-0-25173100-1373067291_thumb.jpg

post-40338-0-25173100-1373067291_thumb.jpg

post-40338-0-25173100-1373067291_thumb.jpg

post-40338-0-25173100-1373067291_thumb.jpg

Posted

Go through your fluids, make sure cats aren't bad, clean MAF and throttle body

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Posted

Mine just passed 70,000 miles and I had the trans flushed and the 4x4 fluids changed (front/rear axles & diff.). I am going to change the spark plugs here shortly and I should be good to go.

Posted

coolant system flush

Trans / Transfer Case flush

cleaned / check battery terminals and Ground location

check front end (T-Rods, Ball joints wheel hub bearings etc)

Posted

Fuel filter?

Air filter clean?

Cats is another silent killer of HP

o2 sensors?

Like others have said, consider cleaning the MAF sensors, check everything related to fuel injection, and air in and out of the engine.

Posted

try using a good injector cleaner. i prefer Seafoam.

 

x2, seafoam that bad boy just before your next oil change. Let he sit for at least 20 minutes, then watch the smoke fly, then change your oil A.S.A.P, add some seafoam to your tank and you'll be good to go. I'd wait until at least 80k to change your plugs. But if you want to then it's cheap enough.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...