Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2 1/2 in RC level on stock 18s and stock tires.

Posted

I am new to the forum and I'm wondering if you guys can help me I also bout the summit leveling kit 2.5" I'm wondering you there is any pitures of the kit because I bought it from a friend who was gonna put it on his 2011 but mine is a 2015 and I didn't know if they would fit the same thanks for the help

Posted

Finally finished all the mods, here is some info for those looking for it.

 

- 2inch rough country leveling kit

- 305/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2

- 20 inch Fuel Maverick Wheels with a 20mm Offset

 

And before any one asks, No rubbing on the fender lining and suspension at full lock. I also didn't trim a thing.

 

 

 

 

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Finally finished all the mods, here is some info for those looking for it.

 

- 2inch rough country leveling kit

 

- 305/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2

- 20 inch Fuel Maverick Wheels with a 20mm Offset

 

 

 

And before any one asks, No rubbing on the fender lining and suspension at full lock. I also didn't trim a thing.

 

 

 

 

Not about the leveling kit but how do you like the anzo lights? I just installed some and can't seem to adjust the low beams up high enough. Any tips?

Posted

Not about the leveling kit but how do you like the anzo lights? I just installed some and can't seem to adjust the low beams up high enough. Any tips?

I emailed Anzo about this as well, I installed them on Monday Night and noticed the driver side is really low. I'm hoping there is a way to adjust them.

Posted

Hmm kinda weirded I installed my Monday night ad well. Did you leave the bulbs that came with them or did you install some differen. I went with leds, thought it might have been the leds.

Posted

Hmm kinda weirded I installed my Monday night ad well. Did you leave the bulbs that came with them or did you install some differen. I went with leds, thought it might have been the leds.

I kept whatever bulb was in the light. I didn't really care because I plan to pick up a TRS Morimoto HID kit later on.

Posted

To adjust the Anzo headlights. You have to completely take them out and there is a screw on the back of the assembly that will raise the low beam up or down.

Posted

Went with the Rough Country 3" leveling kit. My 2015 GMC Sierra had the aluminum A-arms and when ordering kit they need to know that information. Kit was $72. shipped from Rough Country. Midas installed the kit for $150 which included the front end alignment.

 

Before measurements were front 36 3/4 inches front and 39 1/4 inches rear. so front was down 2 1/2 inches

After level kit front was 38 1/2 inches for a total front increase of 1 3/4 inches of lift. Almost perfectly level !! front is 3/4 of an inch lower but not noticeable at all.

 

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

 

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

Posted

To adjust the Anzo headlights. You have to completely take them out and there is a screw on the back of the assembly that will raise the low beam up or down.

There's a screw on top where the normal adjustments are made that moves them up UT I have it maxed out. Is there another one?

Posted

I am new to the forum and I'm wondering if you guys can help me I also bout the summit leveling kit 2.5" I'm wondering you there is any pitures of the kit because I bought it from a friend who was gonna put it on his 2011 but mine is a 2015 and I didn't know if they would fit the same thanks for the help

I have that kit on mine .. Love it no problems so far with 4000 miles on it

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been thinking more and more about leveling my truck, but I know nothing about it. anything I need to be weary of? is gas mileage really affected? Yes I know we don't buy trucks for gas, but I drive 65 miles a day and have a life time avg of over 20 so that made the purchase of the truck worth it. local truck shop in town quoted me 330 installed aligned etc for a fabtech level kit. I just wanted to hear some opinions from the pros what to look for and don't etc.

Posted (edited)

I've been thinking more and more about leveling my truck, but I know nothing about it. anything I need to be weary of? is gas mileage really affected? Yes I know we don't buy trucks for gas, but I drive 65 miles a day and have a life time avg of over 20 so that made the purchase of the truck worth it. local truck shop in town quoted me 330 installed aligned etc for a fabtech level kit. I just wanted to hear some opinions from the pros what to look for and don't etc.

 

Gas mileage will be fine as long as it's a 2-2.5" level. Mine has remained pretty much the same after leveling 1.8" and removing the front air dam and running boards. That said my uphill gas mileage seems to tank quicker. I've since put an airaid MIT on it though so maybe it mitigates the effects if i keep my foot out of it.

 

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

 

There are essentially two ways of leveling these trucks and depending on what you do with yours may make one more viable than the other. The most common method is spacer kits. Of the spacer kits the most common is the strut extension kits. These kits go on top of the strut mount and below the strut where the shock connects to the lower control arm. They're cheap and don't cost much to install. The downside is that it will likely stiffen your ride, though most for the 14+ say it doesn't. My brothers 2012 Chevy however is rough as hell that might be attributed to his OEM twin tube shocks though. My cousin's 2009 sierra with ranchos and a rough country 2.5" kit rides fine to me. You will also limit the up travel of your suspension and if your doing some hard trailing or anything taking use of wheel travel when the suspension collapses and shock compresses that lower spacer is going to push the lower shock mount into the body putting stress on it.

 

The other type of spacer is a spring-preload spacer. Of which i have never seen for the 14+ models but it would be more ideal than a strut extension spacer IMO. A quote from bilstein on the matter.

"A Spring Preload Spacer installs between the upper spring perch and the top of the coil spring. The spacer applies more preload to the spring, raising the static spring rate, which increases the ride height of the vehicle. This type of spacer kit has two major shortcomings: loss of rebound damping control, and loss of free down-travel or “droop”

 

The other method of leveling/lifting is new struts and coilovers. The latter being very expensive and usually accommodates new UCAs for the bigger shock body and spring so that's another 500$ at the least tacked on. But these are adjustable from stock-3" of lift. They're the best option you can get without upgrading the suspension as a whole. They offer the best dampening, most wheel travel, and FWIW the most height adjustment. Coilovers usually range anywhere from 600$ on the low end for a pair to 1500$ for something like fox, icon, or King. Rear shocks will run you 100$ or so a piece and then the install and likely new UCAs.

 

The struts on the other hand are a mid-range expense. Rancho, Pro-comp, and Bilstein all produce leveling struts. These struts raise the front end of the vehicle by raising the spring perch higher, while maintaining full amount of wheel travel and likely the best ride for the money. Now some will say the 5100s on max setting ride harsh, however that has not been my experience. The ride is more stiff and controlled but large bumps, whoops, and railroad tracks the truck glides over. Body roll and bed sway have been significantly reduced, and i no longer am bouncing in the cab like i was with my stock ranchos. Estimated expense for this method is probably in the 800$ range installed. It will run you 400ish for two struts and rear shocks, and probably around 350-400$ for an install. You can do it yourself but you need a spring compressor because the 5100s use the factory spring. Now the Rancho quicklifts come with their own spring. The 7000mt and pro-comps both use the factory i think. But you will need an alignment either way.

 

"The 5100 Series Leveling Shock will allow for 1-2” more up-travel than a strut extension. As for the droop or down-travel, the extended length of the shock also allows for more overall travel. The goal is to maximize wheel travel without inducing any ball joint or driveline bind. What we have found in most cases is that the OEM manufacturers have designed a coilover unit using a short travel shock with long shock body. What this means is we can increase the extended length of the shock without effecting the collapsed length. With the 5100 Series Leveling Shock is installed, you will gain more wheel travel while maintaining the factory compression stops.

 

The lift on the 5100 Series leveling shocks is achieved by increasing the preload on the factory coil. By adding more preload, the shock is designed with more rebound damping as compared to the O.E. or standard aftermarket replacement shock. Considering that Bilstein is the world leader in monotube gas pressure shocks absorbers, we are in the unique position to offer a leveling shock with the perfect damping rates, optimizing your ride and handling characteristics. The result is a much smoother and better controlled ride than the factory coilover set up can deliver."

 

Now the question really is what do you plan on doing with your truck? I went with shocks for peace of mind that i would have full suspension travel. Spacer kits are fine, though they might have some disadvantage plenty and i mean plenty of people run them for 200,000 miles with little to no issues. If i was to go with a spacer kit it'd likely be a coil spacer.

 

If i'm off on any of this guys feel free to chime in and correct me.

 

167DC197-A547-4459-A158-8FD70248D4FC_zps

96B5AE9E-A856-45B9-90C4-15159D4607AF_zps

6E4E1FDB-5C13-4953-9AED-5728CA71599B_zps

59C12595-B3D6-4667-958D-E9B6A229C07E_zps

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Having bumper and other body damages can be very frustrating, especially as a result of a parking lot collision/bump. Our team wants to learn more about the damages to your truck so we can look into ways we might be able to help. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with more details: https://s.gmc.com/support-request . A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available. We want to get you enjoying your truck to the fullest again. 
    • Did you even read this article?   Even the title of the article says "U.S.-Iran Deal Doesn’t Mean a Swift Return of Oil and Gas Flows"   Remember, crude oil prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the oil companies.  Gas prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the station.  This article stated that many of the oil producing nations have to restart their processes to get the oil produced.  Then the oil has to be shipped to wherever.  And it doesn't get there overnight.  And most of that oil is not coming here. Check out this site:  https://afdc.energy.gov/data/10621   A graph will pop up to show where the US imports their oil from.  Notice that there isn't a lot of import from OPEC and Iraq.  Most of the US import comes from Canada. The US oil produces are selling their oil on the open market, which is why the US fuel costs went up.  So you're correct, the US oil companies are going to slow walk the price downward.
    • Having codes and an engine light with no hints on what might be causing it is nothing short of frustrating. How long have these concerns been present? We want to know more so we can look into ways we might be able to help you. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience so far. A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available: https://s.gmc.com/support-request 
    • Knowing the life of your brakes is a highly important status to keep track of. If you suspect your brake sensors need attention, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience. When did you last take it in for inspection? Our team will follow up with next steps as soon as next available. Please include your username and GM Trucks Forum in the form as well. Support Form: https://s.chevy.com/support-request 
    • I just purchased a 2004 Tahoe with 148,******. I used to have a 2006 Suburban that had the push button Auto 4X, 2Hi, 4Hi and 4Lo. When checking out this truck I noticed it had push button but didn’t focus on it. After the purchase when driving home, this is when I noticed it was different and after a little research found out it has the AWD stabilitrak system. I don’t live in an area that requires AWD. I bought the truck to start a new adventure in life with off roading, now that the kids are all grown up. I purchased the truck knowing it didn’t have the G80 rearend but plan on re-gearing to drive on 33s or 35s and upgrade with a rear locker and still be able to tow when needed. Blah Blah Blah Anyway I know am thinking about converting the stabilitrak  to Z71. I know I will have to replace the transfer case. So now the information gathering stage is happening to see if it is worth it. Is the front AWD stabilitrak differential different when compared to a non-AWD front diff? Will I need a completely different front differential or can it be converted? What else should I be considering? I did see something in a video for GMT900 platform with removing the ABS fuse that disables the stabilitrak and turns the truck into a 2 wheel drive. Would that work in the GMT800 platform?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...