Jump to content

Choice of rear axle ratio would you pick?


coachrider

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

3.08, what a joke.

Least get the 3.73's when they come available.

 

With the older transmissions they were horrible, but they do fine with the 6-speed and the new motor.

 

4L80E

1 2.48

2 1.48

3 1.00

4 0.75

 

6L80

1 4.027

2 2.364

3 1.532

4 1.152

5 0.852

6 0.667

Posted

Just to give a little more info...

 

The old trans with 3.73 gears gave a 9.25 final drive ratio in first gear. With 4.10 gears and the old trans the final gear ratio is 10.168. The new trans with 3.08 gears gives a final drive ratio of 12.403. Couple that with the added low end torque of the new motor and the truck moves along just fine, with a lower highway cruising rpm. Of course, if you're drag racing, putting a lift and bigger tires on it, or planning to tow 10,000lbs 3.42 or 3.73 would be better.

Posted

I laugh at this debate. Do all you that like higher gearing drive around only in first or maybe second gear? Didn't think so... So when you are a little heavy... or even empty and all you have is that 1.5 or 1.15 to one on the highway... 3.08's and 32 inch tall heavy tires. . Well leave lots of room to pass okay. Especially with all that overdrive gear and engines that need to rev... 3.73 minimum. Mechanical advantage is nice in any trans gear..thus putting the mechanical advantage in a fixed position ( the diffs) and not relying on the trans for it makes a better drive.. Toyota is about the only one that actually figured that out.

 

Posted

I laugh at this debate. Do all you that like higher gearing drive around only in first or maybe second gear? Didn't think so... So when you are a little heavy... or even empty and all you have is that 1.5 or 1.15 to one on the highway... 3.08's and 32 inch tall heavy tires. . Well leave lots of room to pass okay. Especially with all that overdrive gear and engines that need to rev... 3.73 minimum. Mechanical advantage is nice in any trans gear..thus putting the mechanical advantage in a fixed position ( the diffs) and not relying on the trans for it makes a better drive.. Toyota is about the only one that actually figured that out.

 

Are you serious? How is having a low cruising RPM on the highway a bad thing? If you're a little heavy or towing, tow/haul keeps the lower gears longer.

Posted

Yeah, low cruise is fine. Even with 3.73's, 32" tall tires and that .66 overdrive do that. I'm serious that I like a truck that can pull itself properly at any speed. And yes I have driven the 3.08 geared trucks... Gm just doesn't get it.

 

Posted

Yeah, low cruise is fine. Even with 3.73's, 32" tall tires and that .66 overdrive do that. I'm serious that I like a truck that can pull itself properly at any speed. And yes I have driven the 3.08 geared trucks... Gm just doesn't get it.

 

2014? It's a big difference.

Posted

Can't be bothered evening looking at the new trucks, sorry... and I doubt its much of a difference. A little horsepower and torque increase do little to offset lack of gearing. You still have a rev happy truck with nothing in the back. If Gm thought it was that great they wouldn't release the 373 option with the 5.3 for a lower level towing package and stayed with just 342 like the gmt900. What I want to see... the real world economy difference between 308 and 373 on the 2014... if its like anything in the past which it will be... I don't understand the want for 308.

 

Most of the world doesn't have a clue what axle ratio they have so I doubt many will care.

 

Posted

Can't be bothered evening looking at the new trucks, sorry... and I doubt its much of a difference. A little horsepower and torque increase do little to offset lack of gearing. You still have a rev happy truck with nothing in the back. If Gm thought it was that great they wouldn't release the 373 option with the 5.3 for a lower level towing package and stayed with just 342 like the gmt900. What I want to see... the real world economy difference between 308 and 373 on the 2014... if its like anything in the past which it will be... I don't understand the want for 308. Most of the world doesn't have a clue what axle ratio they have so I doubt many will care.

 

You doubt, but it's a huge difference. Judging by the years of the trucks in your signature they all have the old 4-speeds, where 3.08's are worthless. Like I already posted, the effective gear ratio of the 6-speeds with 3.08 gears are better than the old 4-speeds with 4.10 gears. If you plan on leaving stock size tires, and at most pulling a small boat or a utility trailer the 3.08's are perfectly fine. I barely noticed a difference when I was test driving between the 3.08's and the 3.42's. In fact, I can pass on the highway and keep it in V4 mode. If I was ordering a truck, I would go with 3.42's, but the 3.08's do just fine.

Posted
Can't be bothered evening looking at the new trucks, sorry... and I doubt its much of a difference. A little horsepower and torque increase do little to offset lack of gearing. You still have a rev happy truck with nothing in the back. If Gm thought it was that great they wouldn't release the 373 option with the 5.3 for a lower level towing package and stayed with just 342 like the gmt900. What I want to see... the real world economy difference between 308 and 373 on the 2014... if its like anything in the past which it will be... I don't understand the want for 308. Most of the world doesn't have a clue what axle ratio they have so I doubt many bywill care.

 

You doubt, but it's a huge difference. Judging by the years of the trucks in your signature they all have the old 4-speeds, where 3.08's are worthless. Like I already posted, the effective gear ratio of the 6-speeds with 3.08 gears are better than the old 4-speeds with 4.10 gears. If you plan on leaving stock size tires, and at most pulling a small boat or a utility trailer the 3.08's are perfectly fine. I barely noticed a difference when I was test driving between the 3.08's and the 3.42's. In fact, I can pass on the highway and keep it in V4 mode. If I was ordering a truck, I would go with 3.42's, but the 3.08's do just fine.

 

Sigh.... why I bother. Sure you have the same mechanical advantage as a 410 truck in first gear.... whooptee dooo. How about in 4th on the highway... nope you sure don't have the edge on 410... ever. Unless you drive around in first gear all the time you have no advantage.. and really. The 6 speed has what.. granny low and 2 overdrives. Neither are useful for anything for power when rolling. Slow enough speed you get back into second... but otherwise its 3rd and 4th like me with 2nd and 3rd.

 

308 has no business in a truck... Even 373s in my last 6 speed 09 wasn't anything wonderful. The truck would had been better off 410.

 

 

Posted

All I can say is that my trailblazer ss has 4.10 gears in it and the 4L60E and it passes everything but a gas station. DIC currently says 10.1 MPG. Cruising on the highway at 70 I'm turning almost 3K. I ordered 3.42's and I would have liked 3.73's. I've had both 3.73 & 3.42's in my camaro and I could honestly tell very little difference between the two. That said 3.08's are gutless gears which would probably make my 80 year old grandmother bitch about it having no balls...

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

Posted

Sigh.... why I bother. Sure you have the same mechanical advantage as a 410 truck in first gear.... whooptee dooo. How about in 4th on the highway... nope you sure don't have the edge on 410... ever. Unless you drive around in first gear all the time you have no advantage.. and really. The 6 speed has what.. granny low and 2 overdrives. Neither are useful for anything for power when rolling. Slow enough speed you get back into second... but otherwise its 3rd and 4th like me with 2nd and 3rd. 308 has no business in a truck... Even 373s in my last 6 speed 09 wasn't anything wonderful. The truck would had been better off 410.

 

Yes you'll have a mechanical advantage in OD gears, if you're not towing anything heavy or never plan on it why do you need the engine revving higher on the highway? Not everybody pulls a 10,000 lb trailer or races a 5500lb truck. If you do, wait for the NHT package or the 6.2. If you use Tow/Haul mode it drags out the gears before shifting. Trust me, this truck has no problem overtaking people on the highway, it's surprisingly quick and it zips right along in town. If you set the cruise to 65mph it gets 24-25 highway mpg.

 

All I was pointing out is I was apprehensive about buying a truck with 3.08 gears due to past experience. I drove several and the only one that had the color and options I wanted with the 5.3 had 3.08 gears. I honestly could not tell the difference between the one I bought and a Dark Maroon one I drove with 3.42's. If I was ordering a truck and had the choice, I would pick 3.42's, but the 3.08's are nothing to be afraid of if this truck is just your daily driver/family wagon. I'm sure the new motor with the very flat torque curve is what helps this truck over the old 5.3.

 

All I can say is that my trailblazer ss has 4.10 gears in it and the 4L60E and it passes everything but a gas station. DIC currently says 10.1 MPG. Cruising on the highway at 70 I'm turning almost 3K. I ordered 3.42's and I would have liked 3.73's. I've had both 3.73 & 3.42's in my camaro and I could honestly tell very little difference between the two. That said 3.08's are gutless gears which would probably make my 80 year old grandmother bitch about it having no balls... Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

And someone else with an opinion that probably hasn't driven one.

Posted

"But your mileage is likely not going to be much if any better with 3.08's, so why not get better gears?" I think that's what folks are getting at.

 

My truck, which many would consider "old", has 3.73's and a 4 speed, and still manages over 18 mpg highway. The lower gears aren't going to hurt economy that much.

Posted

In any gear beyond the first gear of the current 6 speed you have no mechanical advantage over any older truck. Like I said before.... Toyota has 430s and a 6 speed much like everyone else but without the granny first gm and ford use and a less harsh gear spread. Just because you have a deep rear gear doesn't mean the truck can't attain reasonable highway economy. That said I also don't buy 5500 lb trucks and want nothing but the best possible economy... I couldn't care any less about mileage to be truthful.

 

But if someone likes the 308s well then let them like them I guess. But when the mileage penalty no doubt will be so insignificant it will not even be measurable.. why bother.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...