Jump to content

Totaled my 2014

jomuehlbauer

Recommended Posts

jomuehlbauer Enthusiast

jomuehlbauer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What are you thinking?

 

Sent from my SCH-I535

 

Here are my options..

 

1. Same exact truck with gm 22s, crew w/ standard box, mine had every option

-sun roof

-3.42s

-8" touch w/ nav

-trailer brake controller

-heated/cooled seats

-SLT preffered package

-heated steering wheel

-power rear slide w/ defrost

-Bose

-Driver alert package

-Iridium

 

OR

 

2. Same options as above in a Denali w/ a 5.3, Iridium crew standard box.

 

But if I went Denali it would only be with 20s..

 

 

Thoughts??

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply
sh00ter Enthusiast

sh00ter

Posted
Posted

I really like the 22" wheels but think the standard 20" ones on the Denali look almost as good. I just ordered a Denali last week & those wheels are on constraint...hope it won't be a long delay. I ordered everthing on mine except the 22" wheels. As pretty as they are, I just can't see paying that much of an upgrade for wheels. I put it on the 6.2 instead.

BringTheRain403 Senior Enthusiast

BringTheRain403

Posted
Posted

I hate the Denali wheels. I'm sorry to those that have them they just aren't too liking.

 

I personally would choose the SLT with the 22's. The 22's look insane on this truck.

 

The sliding rear window is not available at the present time from what I've read.

 

I've heard weird stories about the lane departure system being hinky especially with dirty windshields.

 

Cooled seats aren't my thing but if you like them more power to ya. Only thing here is that there have been others that have mentioned they blow hot air the passengers the rear (the vents on the rear the seat).

 

Sent from my SCH-I535

jomuehlbauer Enthusiast

jomuehlbauer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Option #3

 

Same exact truck (with 20s) and a 6.2L

 

I know it will probably be a long wait, but like I said.. I have the SLT All Terrain loaner in the mean time with the possibility of getting mine back to drive when its repaired.. All free miles!

  • 2 weeks later...
MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted
3.42 gears are a joke

Sent from your truck

 

That's the lowest axle ratio a available on the 1500s unless you do NHT package. 3.42s aren't as sluggish as they were on the 800-series trucks because the six speed has a way lower first gear.

DanMan_S Enthusiast

DanMan_S

Posted
Posted

That's the lowest axle ratio a available on the 1500s unless you do NHT package. 3.42s aren't as sluggish as they were on the 800-series trucks because the six speed has a way lower first gear.

 

Agreed. The 6 speed has a 1st gear ratio of 4.027 while the 4 speed has a 1st gear ratio of 3.059. So with a 3.42 rear end, the 6 speed still has a shorter first gear than the 4 speed trucks ever did.

gamrtn Enthusiast

gamrtn

Posted
Posted

Here are my options..

 

1. Same exact truck with gm 22s, crew w/ standard box, mine had every option

-sun roof

-3.42s

-8" touch w/ nav

-trailer brake controller

-heated/cooled seats

-SLT preffered package

-heated steering wheel

-power rear slide w/ defrost

-Bose

-Driver alert package

-Iridium

 

OR

 

2. Same options as above in a Denali w/ a 5.3, Iridium crew standard box.

 

But if I went Denali it would only be with 20s..

 

 

Thoughts??

I just drove a Denali and that instrament panel is pretty cool.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

3.42 gears are a joke

 

 

Sent from your truck

 

Paired with the 6 speed....I beg to differ. Yea 3.73s are probably a lot different. But for my 90% around town traffic, they work quite well.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 529 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...