Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yesterday, I was out on lunch with a friend who drove. I work on an Army installation and the weather here is horrific (it was raining and the outside temp was 20 degrees) . While we were eating, (roughly 15 miles from work) I received an e-mail saying the Post was being closed due to weather and all employees were being sent home. We finished eating and headed back to get my truck, I started it up as soon as we headed back by using the app, after 15 min, I started it again, when we got to the parking lot the windshield was 80% defrosted, interior was nice an toasty and ready for me to leave post.

 

Outdoor temp right now is 9 degrees with the windchill, it snowed most of the night, can't wait to get out in it and play.

 

Mike

Posted (edited)

weather here is horrific (it was raining and the outside temp was 20 degrees)

 

It was -10 (without wind chill :happysad: ) this morning after 3 days of getting pummeled with snow...We got about 30" and up the shore they got around 42"... That being said, I'd rather have this than freezing rain.

 

Needless to say, I ran the remote start twice this morning and it was still a bit nippy - my appreciation for the heated steering wheel is immense.

 

I'm giving the block heater a whirl tonight - never used it on any of my vehicles, even in NoDak with -35 temps, but I think this one deserves a little pampering.

Edited by JCthebigTree
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I can't accept the 2 start limit. My cabin is 300 yds across a river from the parking area where we take off on snowmobile from the trucks. 6 miles to a solid stretch of ice then back along river to the cabin. I stay at cabin 4 days but can only remote start my Silverado twice from the cabin then must trek the 24 mile round trip to start with a key before the remote will work again!! My friends can remote start twice each day in the cold weather to make sure batteries stay good. Chev should make the restart option configurable by us owners at least to 6 times. Sometimes at home I remote start but get delayed a couple times before actually leaving and this limitation is a real PAIN in the butt!!


Posted

I can't believe that it helps their battery to do a cold start and a bit of idling.

Posted

I can't believe that it helps their battery to do a cold start and a bit of idling.

Agreed. Starting it and running for a short time does more harm than good. Also,, my truck routinely site for a week or more as I travel for work and never starts any different. Longest it sat was over three weeks in March two years ago. No issue.

Posted

On the GMT900's, you could do a remote start and then immediately follow the steps for remote start again and the system would run for 20 minutes total. In other words it treated each remote start cycle as a full cycle, it didn't just add 10 minutes to however long the truck has been running and negate the time still left on the initial remote start cycle. Are we certain the K2 trucks don't perform this way?

 

I haven't had a chance to try it yet because when I first got my truck it would only let me do one remote start cycle. I just noticed this past weekend I can do 2 now so at some point when a recall was done (probably the odometer peek in update), the system was updated and now functions properly.

Posted

On all the ones I've operated, the 2nd remote activation has always added 10 minutes to the current time.

Posted

On all the ones I've operated, the 2nd remote activation has always added 10 minutes to the current time.

 

Another step backwards with the K2 design...........

Posted

 

Another step backwards with the K2 design...........

I'm saying it's works the same as the GMT900's....

Posted

I'm saying it's works the same as the GMT900's....

 

So if you do a remote start cycle and then immediately do it after the truck has been running for say 1 minute, it will run for 20 minutes total and not 11 minutes?

Posted

If it has run for 1 minute and I recycle, I will end up with 11 minutes total, just like it did on my '11, my '10 and my '04.

Posted

its crap, and if you miss the cutoff at 10 mins, now your restarting the truck, can we say premature starter fail???? I start it after first alarm and then try and catch it ri after the snooze at 10 mins, sometimes I do sometimes I dont, and even after 20 mins on the cold cold days weve had that truck is still cold, my 05 would be warm and defrosted, I have not scraped a window in years, this might be my biggest complaint on this truck, magnified bye the fact that I work outside and the range on the remote is utterly horrible thank god for my onstar app that I won't have next year, maybe I will subscribe for the winter,

 

actually i plan on still putting in a aftermarket system, and the jabs earlier in the thread I get because I had a similar thread a while back and got told that its not right to have a vehicle run that long,

 

BOTTOM line is I work outside and when I'm freezing my tooshie off all day i want a warm truck, and bye the way GM I paid 40k for this dam truck and its my dam truck and with all the crap on there (intelilink) I still can't personalize "MY" truck. don't even get me started on why I can't dim the intelilink screen separately then the gauges thats gripe #2,

 

Otherwise its the best looking truck out there and rides like a dream! :driving: we will see how she tows in 4 months

Posted (edited)

its crap, and if you miss the cutoff at 10 mins, now your restarting the truck, can we say premature starter fail???? I start it after first alarm and then try and catch it ri after the snooze at 10 mins, sometimes I do sometimes I dont, and even after 20 mins on the cold cold days weve had that truck is still cold, my 05 would be warm and defrosted, I have not scraped a window in years, this might be my biggest complaint on this truck, magnified bye the fact that I work outside and the range on the remote is utterly horrible thank god for my onstar app that I won't have next year, maybe I will subscribe for the winter,

 

actually i plan on still putting in a aftermarket system, and the jabs earlier in the thread I get because I had a similar thread a while back and got told that its not right to have a vehicle run that long,

 

BOTTOM line is I work outside and when I'm freezing my tooshie off all day i want a warm truck, and bye the way GM I paid 40k for this dam truck and its my dam truck and with all the crap on there (intelilink) I still can't personalize "MY" truck. don't even get me started on why I can't dim the intelilink screen separately then the gauges thats gripe #2,

 

Otherwise its the best looking truck out there and rides like a dream! :driving: we will see how she tows in 4 months

 

 

Your OnStar app will work 5 years from the time you start your trial period, whether you subscribe or not.

Edited by txchevy4ever
Posted

If it has run for 1 minute and I recycle, I will end up with 11 minutes total, just like it did on my '11, my '10 and my '04.

 

Hmm that's weird my 2007 would run for the full 20 minutes in this scenario. It said it would do this in the manual too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • I'm well aware of the typical bathtub failure curve, but plotted, this truck has been more like an elevated straight line.  It started days off the lot with misfires that GM couldn't solve for almost 2 years, and steadily continued over the last 5 years with repeat replacements of wiring harnesses, camera modules, cameras, parking sensors, head unit, rear windows, rear leaf springs and bushings, lower control arms, a radiator, and now an ac compressor and a column shift assembly.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...