Jump to content

kstruckcountry's 2006 Silverado Z71

kstruckcountry

By kstruckcountry
in Member Build Threads

 Share

Recommended Posts

Full Lock Enthusiast

Full Lock

Posted
Posted

Thanks!

 

I will add: The ATP tires seem to be holding up well at 26,000 miles BUT they are starting to cup. I am not pleased because they have been rotated plenty and the front end is perfectly aligned. I'm not sure what is causing it.

Usually it's the shocks that cause cupping. The shock can't compress and decompress fast enough when going over bumps thus causing the tire to skip and cupping to occur.

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

kstruckcountry
kstruckcountry

Cleaned up the pickup finally, used rubbing compound on the scratches some dog left on the pickup. Polished and sealed.

kstruckcountry
kstruckcountry

Update: 141,xxx miles   I painted the frame with semigloss POR-15 after wire wheeling it. Quite the job.   I also installed a RC steering stabilizer. It makes a noticeable difference on rutted p

kstruckcountry
kstruckcountry

200,000 mile bump, actually about to roll over 201k. Trusty rusty is holding together still, no major issues to report. I am now on my 2nd set of Cooper ATW's, and I have not had a flat since swi

Posted Images

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Usually it's the shocks that cause cupping. The shock can't compress and decompress fast enough when going over bumps thus causing the tire to skip and cupping to occur.

That was my thought, but the Bilstiens have only been on for about 50k.
Full Lock Enthusiast

Full Lock

Posted
Posted (edited)

Huh ok if that's ruled out check alignment, upper & lower ball joints, steering linkage, wheel bearings too. There's a lot of things that can have slop to cause cupping.

Edited by Full Lock
white1500 Senior Enthusiast

white1500

Posted
Posted

When I went to get my alignment the shop said that my ball joints will cause uneven tire wear, at this point it's the only significant weak point up front. Struts/shocks and tie rods are both practically new.

 

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted

When I went to get my alignment the shop said that my ball joints will cause uneven tire wear, at this point it's the only significant weak point up front. Struts/shocks and tie rods are both practically new.

 

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

I don't know what alignment shop you heard that from but that's Definitely not true at all

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

Mine was bad under the original paint. I don't have any sandblasting equipment here, so I just sanded it well enough and put on about 4 coats. I'm trying to figure out a way to divert the water so it doesn't happen again.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Same here. I think I sanded mine down with an air tool and sanding disc. So far it's holding up good. I primed it too before paint.

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Huh ok if that's ruled out check alignment, upper & lower ball joints, steering linkage, wheel bearings too. There's a lot of things that can have slop to cause cupping.

That's the thing. Alignment was and is dead on. Z height was even perfectly level side to side. I just have to get it figured out before new tires.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted (edited)

Loose ball joints affect alignment (toe) and camber...

 

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

you can google "ball joint affecting tire wear" and look at every article. I have a fleet of Econolines which eat balljoint, when they get worn out it tears up the tires. Edited by KMGZ400
Full Lock Enthusiast

Full Lock

Posted
Posted

 

When I went to get my alignment the shop said that my ball joints will cause uneven tire wear, at this point it's the only significant weak point up front. Struts/shocks and tie rods are both practically new.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

I don't know what alignment shop you heard that from but that's Definitely not true at all

you can google "ball joint affecting tire wear" and look at every article. I have a fleet of Econolines which eat balljoint, when they get worn out it tears up the tires.

Hmmm true or not you have seemed to contradict yourself.

FYI ball joints depending on location can cause odd tire wear

  • Like 1
Full Lock Enthusiast

Full Lock

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't know what alignment shop you heard that from but that's Definitely not true at all

you can google "ball joint affecting tire wear" and look at every article. I have a fleet of Econolines which eat balljoint, when they get worn out it tears up the tires.

That's the thing. Alignment was and is dead on. Z height was even perfectly level side to side. I just have to get it figured out before new tires.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

And yeah if it's, let's say a lower control arm ballpoint that's severely worn to have enough up/down play with the wheel, that can cause the same effect as worn shocks/struts thus choppy tirewear, aswell as noise and or vibration Edited by Full Lock
kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And yeah if it's, let's say a lower control arm ballpoint that's severely worn to have enough up/down play with the wheel, that can cause the same effect as worn shocks/struts thus choppy tirewear, aswell as noise and or vibration

Very possible. I was planning on redoing the entire front end anyway before the next set of tires.
  • 1 month later...
kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Over 140,000 miles now, I think the ATP's will make 50k. Headlights are starting to haze, I'm looking at the 3M kit. Has anyone used it?

 

It stills shines up really well for a 2006, polished and sealed over the weekend. 303 on the mirrors made them look like new.

 

I need to get a new deflector and install the backup camera.

 

20160907_140645_zpsdp3w21rz.jpg

 

#nofilter [emoji38]

Edited by kstruckcountry
Full Lock Enthusiast

Full Lock

Posted
Posted

I've used TurtleWax and Maguire's kits. Both worked equally well but the Maguire's kit was more complete with like 3 different sandpaper disc grits. Most work about the same. It's how much material you need to sand off as to which kit you should get

  • Like 1
KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

Hmmm true or not you have seemed to contradict yourself.

FYI ball joints depending on location can cause odd tire wear

Read his post wrong thought he said WOULDNT cause tire wear my bad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...