Jump to content

LED Front Light Bars & Pods

svtkidd23

By svtkidd23
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jon A
Jon A

A double row works well behind the Denali grill. Here's my 30" curved Totron:                 The LED's are 1" appart and the rows of holes in the grill just happen to be 1" ap

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

The correct term is "illegal commodities broker" thank you!   I actually work for an oil company, which is similar because both businesses provide highly desired products at artificially inflated

Danthaman69
Danthaman69

Here it is.

Posted Images

Kayslay Enthusiast

Kayslay

Posted
Posted

That's also where I put my switch the rubber holds the switch tight and do drilling

Well I fed the wring through the hole in the grommet a few times and couldn't see anything coming through to the cab. Definitely fed enough wiring for it to make it into the cab, so not sure where it is going. Any tips advice or pics as to where the wiring should come through? I couldn't get it done

Toddfather Enthusiast

Toddfather

Posted
Posted

Well I fed the wring through the hole in the grommet a few times and couldn't see anything coming through to the cab. Definitely fed enough wiring for it to make it into the cab, so not sure where it is going. Any tips advice or pics as to where the wiring should come through? I couldn't get it done

 

I bet it balled up above the BCM. Try a coat hanger wire with some bright tape or paint on the end. I like to use a cheap motorcycle exhaust spring tool.

allterrain14 Enthusiast

allterrain14

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

Edited by allterrain14
  • Like 2
Toddfather Enthusiast

Toddfather

Posted
Posted

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

What lm are the pods?
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

Output pics?

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Don't have any at night but they are 3-4 times brighter than the factory fogs.

 

109b210c3ab7c74b8bef40e02a4c9de7.jpg

 

3c06c23e73365e28608707189a3e74c9.jpg

Post up some night shots when you get them.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Flood but spot can be ordered.

 

 

Is there any adjustment to it since it is a flush mount or no?

cmorenowarrior New Member

cmorenowarrior

Posted
Posted

 

I have the original N-Fab light bar which you are correct mounts to the inside frame rails where the tow hooks are located. I can't imagine they would have redesigned the size of the bar just to add the multi mount rails, I assume they just welded their new rails where I have four tabs. Largest led bar I could fit was a 40" Rigid Industries which extends past the N-Fab bar slightly. I used the Rigid Industries 40" cradle mount and utilized the outside two mounting tabs on the N-Fab light bar, the center two were cut flush to the cradle mount since they will not be used. I really like my factory bumpers and planned from the beginning to find a way to mount the largest Rigid light on the front and a pair of Rigid Duallys on the rear, so N-Fab had the perfect solutions. I matched the front with the N-Fab Rear Runner.

attachicon.gifgmtrucks side profile.jpgattachicon.gifgmtrucks rear.jpgattachicon.gifgmtrucks rear runner.jpg

 

What grill do you have on your truck? Looks really nice!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...