Jump to content

LED Front Light Bars & Pods

svtkidd23

By svtkidd23
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gmborn&raised Enthusiast

Gmborn&raised

Posted
Posted

I bet it balled up above the BCM. Try a coat hanger wire with some bright tape or paint on the end. I like to use a cheap motorcycle exhaust spring tool.

 

i wrapped about a foot of wire with blue electrical tape when going through the rubber kinda made it inward toward the steering wheel there is some slack there and it popped out right above the bcm
  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jon A
Jon A

A double row works well behind the Denali grill. Here's my 30" curved Totron:                 The LED's are 1" appart and the rows of holes in the grill just happen to be 1" ap

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

The correct term is "illegal commodities broker" thank you!   I actually work for an oil company, which is similar because both businesses provide highly desired products at artificially inflated

Danthaman69
Danthaman69

Here it is.

Posted Images

Gmborn&raised Enthusiast

Gmborn&raised

Posted
Posted

I bet it balled up above the BCM. Try a coat hanger wire with some bright tape or paint on the end. I like to use a cheap motorcycle exhaust spring tool.

 

i wrapped about a foot of wire with blue electrical tape when going through the rubber kinda made it inward toward the steering wheel there is some slack there and it popped out right above the bcm

Well I fed the wring through the hole in the grommet a few times and couldn't see anything coming through to the cab. Definitely fed enough wiring for it to make it into the cab, so not sure where it is going. Any tips advice or pics as to where the wiring should come through? I couldn't get it done

 

and I also warped all 3 wires tight (tape) went first try
  • Like 1
BowHunter1 Enthusiast

BowHunter1

Posted
Posted

thanks guys. got it wired up. Turns out the blue was my signal wire, so i plugged it into my fuse #58. I grounded off the black to the truck and capped off the white.

 

 

I am thinking about wiring up the same way with my led bar. Which harness were you using??

Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

I didn't see if anyone has measured how long of a light bar will fit behind the grill of a 2015 Silverado 2500? I'd like to do a 40" bar, but Im not sure if it would fit, and I don't want to rip my grill off in the lovely Chicago weather we are having right now.

corwest Enthusiast

corwest

Posted
Posted

I didn't see if anyone has measured how long of a light bar will fit behind the grill of a 2015 Silverado 2500? I'd like to do a 40" bar, but Im not sure if it would fit, and I don't want to rip my grill off in the lovely Chicago weather we are having right now.

May get better luck in the 2500-3500 section. This one deals with 1500s mostly

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

May get better luck in the 2500-3500 section. This one deals with 1500s mostly

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

Corwest, I posted there too, but I know for the most part, the measurements "should" be the same.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

 

Corwest, I posted there too, but I know for the most part, the measurements "should" be the same.

 

 

If they are not the same the I would imagine that you would have more room. Therefore I do not think you will have much issue fitting a 40" behind there. I know a member has fit a high powered single row 37" and I also posted a pic of a single row Rigid Industries bar behind a Sierra grille. I can't imagine that there would be much difference in area behind the grill between the 2 bodies. Go for the 40"! It should fit, you just may need to do some minor trimming and have to find a mounting spot. If you want to be safe do a 30" I know that will mount easily as I have that behind mine :) good luck with your bar! Gonna look good behind the grille of that truck.

 

 

Honestly, If I were you (or at least the owner of a 2500 Silvy) I would try to take advatage of that area under your grille. Maybe remove those 2 Platic side pieces and see if you can fit 2 or more dual row 30-40" bars. I would go with some good ole Ebay bars if you do multiple in that position to keep costs down.

goose hunter Enthusiast

goose hunter

Posted
Posted

This is very true. Whether it works for 6months or it works for a year. It would take you buying a few of those before you equal the price of a rigid bar!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would'nt want to change mine behind the grill every 6 months....lol ouch!

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted (edited)

Would'nt want to change mine behind the grill every 6 months....lol ouch!

Keep in mind that post was a while back when talking about a 50" bar that someone found for <$90! Haha. I got my 30" for $90 and put it behind my grille. I haven't had any issues. Hopefully it won't need to be changed out ever Edited by Mike1220
  • Like 1
jsep Enthusiast

jsep

Posted
Posted

Just an update. I mounted another 32" bar behind my LTZ grill. I'm loving the light it puts out.

at5emca.jpg

0bwMs7p.jpg

qIFOOwK.jpg

 

Got any night pics with just the single bar you installed compared to lows and then the double bar you installed compared to lows? Wondering if I should go with the single row LED or the double row LED bar. I have the Z71 grille too and it seems like it would block a decent amount of the light if I got the double row like you did.

 

Thanks!

justin283 Enthusiast

justin283

Posted
Posted

No I dont have any pictures and wont be home for awhile. But I ran the single for about a week before i put the 2nd one on and there is considerable more light. I expected barely any light spread or distance being behind that z71 grill but i was amazed how much actually gets through. Best 200$ i've ever spent on truck upgrades. Itll prob be a month but i'll try to take some pictures.

goose hunter Enthusiast

goose hunter

Posted
Posted

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

Just wondering did you connect to fog light wires or ran another wire with own switch????? Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I had a boat for many years, never had a problem even with a 2 wheel drive 93 Silvy for 20 years. Good tires, proper use of the gas pedal worked.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I read through that and I won't lie, my eyes rolled at some of the quirks about how it can turn off the trailer braking for example but I can see how it could help control or even up the torque applied to the ground with each wheel in a boat ramp scenario. But of course what it can't do is increase the torque to the wheels if the need is there as it ends up being like driving the four wheel drive version of a two wheel drive ( high range that is ). So far the neighbor that ended up with the 3.0 duramax with the max tow package which meant the 3.73 gears and high range only, I think its been doing ok for what he has been towing but doubt he ventures off into the soft stuff with his holiday trailer. He may have towed his dads river boat locally with it ( he always used his 6.6 duramax before ), I'll have to ask him sometime if he got into a lack of power to the wheels situation as after all that engine produces a lot of torque at low speed once the turbo winds out a bit and I think it has the 10 speed and if so they have a pretty good first gear ratio at 4.70 I see which is vastly better than the 3 or four speed overdrive models of years ago. 
    • diyer2
      OCI, not when but why?

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I did shorter OCI"s for many years without an issue, fights sludge and wear IMO. Recently started using Amsoil, will not do the recommended/advertised miles between changes. 
    • tigers2007
      Oil Fill Tube

      By tigers2007 · Posted

      GM Part Number???
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      It definitely seems quite evident that emissions and fuel economy targets rule above the best case scenario of what the engines best health and life could be otherwise. Items like DI and turbo DI engines with their LSPI issues as well as cats being reduced in life if the proper levels of certain additives were allowed to be utilized and so something has to be compromised and as you point out that is the engine protection from sludge, acid and wear which isn't in the manufactures best interest regardless to worry about in this race to profits from higher sales and so if the engines wear out sooner the next sale is closer at hand.    I am hearing that its likely the two new 2027 GM half ton truck engines will call for a 0W-30 oil, now if that is an existing oil I would have to think so but we will see in the coming months. Sadly as you've pointed out to me, over the last number of years the push has been on to reduce the actual operating temperature viscosity within each designated viscosity grade so that 11.5 to 12 range for a 30 weight for example is more in that just above 10 range at 100c along with that temporary viscosity sheer dropping it even further down as per that "energy conserving" designation, not to mention how some oils are not as sheer stable as would be ideal and that mixed with a long OCI paints a picture with a little too much glitter shall we say !.    All that and the warranty gods scaring the vehicle owner into sticking with that watery wine or risk loosing their warranty coverage if they go and use an oil that is of a higher viscosity even if it meets the emissions and LSPI requirements and would never damage the engine but may very well allow for an engines longer life depending on engine use scenarios ... high ambient temps, towing etc that push oils to their limits.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...