Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone here try the Texas Speed headers? I'm very curious on any differences sound wise or even quality vs arh/kooks. My ideal choice is arh but if tsp is selling longtubes and catted pipes for 800 I ain't gona argue:D anyone try these?

Posted

Anyone here try the Texas Speed headers? I'm very curious on any differences sound wise or even quality vs arh/kooks. My ideal choice is arh but if tsp is selling longtubes and catted pipes for 800 I ain't gona argue:D anyone try these?

Ryan has.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/171035-rawyzfs-2015-silverado-z71-build/page-1

 

I've got mine sitting in my room, should be putting them on in a couple of weeks. Sooner if the damn state would give me my tax return within 90 days but apparently that's just asking too much. The welds are rather "meh" even from someone as inept as myself on welding it doesn't look good when you've been staring at professional tig welding fabs for days on end reading about prerunners in the last month. That said, as long as they don't leak i don't think i'll care. I couldn't justify 1300$ for pipes. Especially when that will get me Kings.

Posted

Anyone here try the Texas Speed headers? I'm very curious on any differences sound wise or even quality vs arh/kooks. My ideal choice is arh but if tsp is selling longtubes and catted pipes for 800 I ain't gona argue:D anyone try these?

 

I have them, sound and function the same as the other brands. Only real difference it that TSP uses slip connections for the LT to the Y. Where the others use ball connections to everything I believe.

 

I have a few vids (like posted above) on youtube. Also, there is a long thread on TSP headers somewhere on this forum where I have a lot of pictures. I have some in my build thread also.

Posted

Ryan has.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/171035-rawyzfs-2015-silverado-z71-build/page-1

 

I've got mine sitting in my room, should be putting them on in a couple of weeks. Sooner if the damn state would give me my tax return within 90 days but apparently that's just asking too much. The welds are rather "meh" even from someone as inept as myself on welding it doesn't look good when you've been staring at professional tig welding fabs for days on end reading about prerunners in the last month. That said, as long as they don't leak i don't think i'll care. I couldn't justify 1300$ for pipes. Especially when that will get me Kings.

I have them, sound and function the same as the other brands. Only real difference it that TSP uses slip connections for the LT to the Y. Where the others use ball connections to everything I believe.

 

I have a few vids (like posted above) on youtube. Also, there is a long thread on TSP headers somewhere on this forum where I have a lot of pictures. I have some in my build thread also.

Hah! Just quoted u guys on abother header thread lol- as far as recommending 1 7/8 over 1 3/4 for low end?

Posted

Hah! Just quoted u guys on abother header thread lol- as far as recommending 1 7/8 over 1 3/4 for low end?

 

TSP reported saying it really doesn't matter on these trucks when N/A.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Carven has catback kits for our trucks now. They look pretty nice and will fit nicely if they are the same quality of their mufflers. Pretty nice pricing too.

 

http://www.carvenexhaust.com/products/exhaust-kits.html

 

I've got one! I posted a couple sound clips in another thread but this is a good place for them for reference for everyone.

 

I ordered the "Competitor Series" with the dual ceramic black tips. There's a bit of extra clarification required on that regarding our trucks. Carven has the R muffler which is the louder of their offerings and the TR, which is quieter. Usually Competitor = R, however, for our trucks they they designed a muffler specifically for the 5.3 in the Competitor package. As far as I can tell it is a slightly longer R muffler, I imagine with the intent of reducing drone and optimizing the exhaust note. With that said, on to the sound clips:

 

Cold Start:

 

 

 

Warm Start and some revs:

 

 

 

The videos do an OK job on conveying the sound of the exhaust but the miss a bit of the pop and crackle in some situations. For my taste, it's just the right amount of pop and crackle, so don't be concerned if that's not your taste. I've been super busy lately with personal stuff but I can try to take some more videos if there is interest.

 

As far as fit and finish goes, it's second to none. The whole kit is 304 stainless and the TIG welds are beautiful. Best quality exhaust kit that I have experience with.

 

I hope that this doesn't sound too fanboy, I'm just really really impressed with this company and their product.

Posted

WereBot that sounds really nice. How long is the muffler?

Posted

WereBot that sounds really nice. How long is the muffler?

 

The ol' eyeball estimate says it's about 14" long. I can try to to get under the truck with a tape measure tonight if you are interested in an actual measurement.

Posted

 

The ol' eyeball estimate says it's about 14" long. I can try to to get under the truck with a tape measure tonight if you are interested in an actual measurement.

Did you buy it directly from Carven's website?

  • Like 1
Posted

 

The ol' eyeball estimate says it's about 14" long. I can try to to get under the truck with a tape measure tonight if you are interested in an actual measurement.

I was just curious if it was a different length than the TR which is 15.5" end to end with 11.5" of packing. No worries. Just wondering.

Posted

I was just curious if it was a different length than the TR which is 15.5" end to end with 11.5" of packing. No worries. Just wondering.

 

Hmm I think it's slightly shorter than that but not sure without measuring. I also don't think this muffler has any packing. At least not that I could see by looking in the end before installing.

Posted

 

I've got one! I posted a couple sound clips in another thread but this is a good place for them for reference for everyone.

 

I ordered the "Competitor Series" with the dual ceramic black tips. There's a bit of extra clarification required on that regarding our trucks. Carven has the R muffler which is the louder of their offerings and the TR, which is quieter. Usually Competitor = R, however, for our trucks they they designed a muffler specifically for the 5.3 in the Competitor package. As far as I can tell it is a slightly longer R muffler, I imagine with the intent of reducing drone and optimizing the exhaust note. With that said, on to the sound clips:

 

t this doesn't sound too fanboy, I'm just really really impressed with this company and their product.

Any V4 mode chopper noise? This is probably the last question I have on this system haha Ready to buy something to get my truck to sound like it has a v8 and not a Prius

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,255 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...