Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I highly suggest a notch then. Even with bags. It's a lot heavier than my rc. So you'll hit a lot easier I can get system with no notch at 7 but as of right now my bump stop is the diff hitting the bed

  • Like 1
Heavy_Static Enthusiast

Heavy_Static

Posted
Posted

Ouch. Yeah, I didn't even consider the extra weight of the body and how much affect it will have on the rear. Maybe I'll just play it safe with 6" to start and go lower later on if I can get away with it. I'm gonna stay away from notching it right out of the gate. Something about cutting into the frame of a brand new truck doesn't set easy with me. Lol.

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I felt the same way. I've had the truck 5 months and I'm gonna notch it. You can go 4/6 no issues if you use Mcg or belltech. The djm arms drop it over 4 and mine didn't fit so I'm running all mcg

  • Like 1
Heavy_Static Enthusiast

Heavy_Static

Posted
Posted

Thanks man. I appreciate the help..and also respect your comfort level in going with the notch after 5 months of ownership. I just couldn't pull the trigger on that one. Hell, I waited 3 years to do anything to this 150. But that was coming off a bad relationship with a '90 454SS that didn't end so well.

 

Do you happen to have part numbers for the Bilsteins that I should look at?

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

For a crew cab I wouldn't use the bills, they will be to soft. They're almost too soft for my rc

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Ya I emailed qa1 a few weeks ago and got an email back recently. They weren't helpful at all. I asked for a few various lengths. They didn't care. I actually just got off the phone with viking very helpful. I'm going that route. I have 7 part numbers within my height range. And double adjustable

  • Like 1
Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Ya I emailed qa1 a few weeks ago and got an email back recently. They weren't helpful at all. I asked for a few various lengths. They didn't care. I actually just got off the phone with viking very helpful. I'm going that route. I have 7 part numbers within my height range. And double adjustable

I found it was easier to get a catalog from QA1 and do it myself. Just measured my shocks at ride height, took the average of the two and then subtracted the distance from the axle to halfway up the bump stop to get an idea of compressed length and used those figures to find a shock that would work. Think I settled on an 709 with single knob adjustable for compression and rebound. Compressed height of 12.88", extended at 19.5". I went with a little more compression than I need because I'm going to put shorter bump stops in when I race and want to get more weight transfer.

 

I'm around 16.5" at ride and the Silverado "stock replacement" from QA1 only has a compressed height of 15" so I'd bottom out those before I even hit the bump stops.

Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Thanks man. I appreciate the help..and also respect your comfort level in going with the notch after 5 months of ownership. I just couldn't pull the trigger on that one. Hell, I waited 3 years to do anything to this 150. But that was coming off a bad relationship with a '90 454SS that didn't end so well.

 

Do you happen to have part numbers for the Bilsteins that I should look at?

I'll have some Belltechs with around 5k miles on them for sale in a week if you're interested. Make you a good deal on them. Hell, I've got a set of McG rears somewhere with less than 50 miles on them too, lol.

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

For a crew cab I wouldn't use the bills, they will be to soft. They're almost too soft for my rc

 

 

My truck is CC and used the same shocks as I gave you part numbers for. I thought they were perfect for the drop and truck.

 

You were lower than me, so maybe something happened to them. I'm still using mine after removing flip kit and dropping the rear with shackles and block removed. Although it's getting ready to get dropped again.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

They ride very good but they are almost to soft. I figured they'd feel softer on the cc

Heavy_Static Enthusiast

Heavy_Static

Posted
Posted

I'll have some Belltechs with around 5k miles on them for sale in a week if you're interested. Make you a good deal on them. Hell, I've got a set of McG rears somewhere with less than 50 miles on them too, lol.

 

Thanks for the offer. Not really sure which way I want to go at this point, but I'll get with you if I decide to give that a shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...