Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
9 minutes ago, 17gmclowlow said:

Sorry. Been busy. I returned the under bed notch and ordered the monster notch and front and rear tubs. Going much lower than I first wanted to 

What size tires will you end up with and how low will you be going

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

What size tires will you end up with and how low will you be going

Have not gotten that far. (About tire size) I'm going 6/10 for now since I have the suspension for it already. But maybe next year I'll bag it and be done. 6/10 on a static drop is very low but inconvenient for a daily driver. I am staying w my 22" or replicas. Just not sure what tires I'll run

Posted
2 minutes ago, 17gmclowlow said:

Have not gotten that far. (About tire size) I'm going 6/10 for now since I have the suspension for it already. But maybe next year I'll bag it and be done. 6/10 on a static drop is very low but inconvenient for a daily driver. I am staying w my 22" or replicas. Just not sure what tires I'll run

Are you changing the front arms? Because if so id do the whole front setup not    less rubbing in the end

Posted
3 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Are you changing the front arms? Because if so id do the whole front setup not    less rubbing in the end

Yes I will be changing the control arms. Even now I have camber that can not be corrected. There are so many options available for these trucks. 

Posted
Just now, 17gmclowlow said:

Yes I will be changing the control arms. Even now I have camber that can not be corrected. There are so many options available for these trucks. 

There isnt many.  Im not saying the crappy djm or inez control arms. Im saying the twisted metalworkz arms or black top industries arms. They will change the upperarm mountand upper and lower arms because going that low your wheel will be pushed back into the fender. These arms. Use new mounts and tuck the front wheel in an extra inch

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

There isnt many.  Im not saying the crappy djm or inez control arms. Im saying the twisted metalworkz arms or black top industries arms. They will change the upperarm mountand upper and lower arms because going that low your wheel will be pushed back into the fender. These arms. Use new mounts and tuck the front wheel in an extra inch

I was looking @ reklez. There's is similar to twisted metal works. But I'm leaning towards twisted. More people running them 

Posted

Reklez are for 7" plus drop but they are bolt in requiring no modifications.  Twisted metal will work for any height and coilovers but you need to chop off the upper arm mounts and strut bucket and weld in the new

Posted

Just picked up the truck 30 minutes ago. Took it for a drive around the neighborhood and it rides good, I am experiencing some rubbing on the liner so I'm going to pull it back over the weekend.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

Here are some bad pictures. Its supposed to be 4/7 but I think the front is to low.ecc3c9e06373b99553cb04129af2d6fd.jpg729af56b2b5388a7551dea38345ee0b0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Thats a 4/7. Looks low because your stock tires. What kit was used

Posted
Thats a 4/7. Looks low because your stock tires. What kit was used
Mcgaughys 34270. It rubs like crazy, even going down the road at 20mph with the smallest dip it rubs.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

Mcgaughys 34270. It rubs like crazy, even going down the road at 20mph with the smallest dip it rubs.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

How many rings did you put in the front struts? And yes you lowered the truck 4" in front withba tire thats almost 32" tall. My front tires are a hair over 28"

IMG_20181027_130139_232.jpg

Edited by Nasty
Posted
How many rings did you put in the front struts? And yes you lowered the truck 4" in front withba tire thats almost 32" tall. My front tires are a hair over 28"
IMG_20181027_130139_232.thumb.jpg.44009bf1086f67dca224449c68634b37.jpg
I didn't do the install myself. I had a reputable shop do the work so I don't know how many rings they put.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, SirenRed16 said:

I didn't do the install myself. I had a reputable shop do the work so I don't know how many rings they put.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Thats something you should know. You should know everything they did

  • Like 1
Posted
Thats something you should know. You should know everything they did
I was going to ask those questions but when I got to the shop I forgot to ask as soon as I saw the truck because it just looked so good lol. I'm going to call them right now and ask.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 
    • So speaking of oil consumption with my L8T as I just changed the oil yesterday and made the switch over to Amsoil SS 0W-40 from the Mobil 1  5W-30 Truck and SUV I just dropped out. 2900 miles on that oil as well as  68 hours on that oil ( so used to equipment with an hour meter and that becomes valuable information to compare with others as well ). Once again the oil use was so very little, I am going to say it dropped under 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. No towing was done and this interval was from early spring until now.    One interesting item to note is that going by the 5 quart jugs I was using before from Mobil, it was showing that I was putting in 8 US quarts to bring it to full if not slightly over the full mark according to their jug markings. Granted I did allow more drain time this time and in part because the engine oil was only lukewarm as I started it and let it idle and not for long enough to get the oil itself hot ( the engine was up to operating temp ). The oil in that state just seemed to take forever for it to drip out but not only at the drain plug but at the oil filter housing as well, perhaps I had never quite gotten all the oil out before and I could have still waited longer but as it was I waited well over 3 hours. I think next time if I have the time I will do an experiment by dropping the oil and lets say leave the pan under it for 15 minutes, then switch to another pail and let it drip out overnight and measure how much more oil comes out. So this time and yes I ended up getting it just over the full mark as I was experimenting with trying to get the level to the add mark after I had run it and then waited some and then added a bit and waited for a certain amount of time for it to settle to the add mark. I very well may not have waited long enough for that experiment but I got to the add mark, then dumped in a full quart and waited some and checked and then waited some more and it crept up more ... and then finally oops, it was slightly over full some hours later when it really had settled all it would. I find this engine sure takes time for the last bit of oil that gets poured in to finally make its way into the crank case. I can only guess at how much too much I added as per maybe a 1/10th of a quart. I had poured in 8.5 quarts going by the quart containers as per 8 quarts and 16 us ounces. I was shocked at how much this was off compared to the prior oil changes and if those larger jugs and they are not marked accurately enough or they contain slightly more than what they say, or the drain time factor made that much of a difference. But I know on this forum there have been others who have said they have put well over 8 quarts in their L8T and now I have also going by the Amsoil true quart containers. Its a confusing convoluted mess up here in Canada with some oil manufactures packaging is in true US quarts, some is also in true US quarts containers on an even number of quarts but also marked in liters which becomes the odd ball volume of a fractional amount of liters. Then there is the Liters only containers, no US markings as its a true metric container and only measured in Liters to an even number of Liters. But remember we used to have Imperial Gallons and Imperial quarts as well !. 
    • Holy smokes. Clearly not a deal on that truck. I just mean in general, matte or painted trim is becoming more normative than chrome, but I know the Black Optics packages on various vehicles are being sold as uplevel trims. They look really good, but sheesh. It's just paint and plastic.
    • I Wouldn't Know Where to Begin    Oh I know where I would begin but I'm just one of over eight billion people on this rock. Eight billion versions of where the goal post is. How large it should be. How far to kick from. What ball is the right ball. Elevation. Age.....are you getting the point? It isn't about disagreeing with one individual. It's about agreeing only with one individual. One's self.   Agreement comes when multiple people hold the same point already. THAT is the goal of an education. Building the Social Contract. That thing that allows us to all read this sentence. We've agreed on the alphabet and how to arrange those letters into words we agree upon whose meanings hold true for everyone entering into that contract. Those words arranged into a sentence form an idea and several sentences strung together in a paragraph convey an argument for or against or inform the reader of a state, condition or perhaps reveal a things nature. Paint a word picture. Make oneself known.    This contract is not limited to words although they are often explained by words. Things like numbers and their usefulness. Physics, Chemistry, Medicine, Music, Art and so on.    The frequency of middle C (C4) is 261.63 Hz is a first principle. We build on that to make music we all can enjoy even if we all can not compose or play. You don't have to master it to make it enjoyable and useful.    So why is the Beginning so difficult? Why is agreement so elusive?   Everyone "Signs" the contract (when receiving that education in obtaining it)  but fewer and fewer in this world have any intention of living by that contract. They find exploiting that contract more advantageous. Disruption. With intent. Without intent. In Ignorance. In your face. With a double dog dare you. With a hold my beer. In resistance to that contract and in spite how it looks on us. It permeates the very air we breath.    In this way the contract is subject to advantage. Abide by it when it serves you, disregard it when it doesn't. Unpredictable and self-serving. Corrosive.....Toxic........   It says a lot about a persons character to disregard the contract, the truth, first principles. None of it good.        ********************************************************   https://medicine.yale.edu/news-article/character-vs-personality-who-we-are-and-who-we-aspire-to-be/   Just an interesting article.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...