Jump to content

Assist Steps / Running Boards / Nerf Bars

Cholt2322

By Cholt2322
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

weagle99
weagle99

I installed Amp Research Power Steps on my GMT900 recently and will never own another truck without them.

anthony2558
anthony2558

N-Fab wheel to wheel.   Tapatalk via Moto X    

mzodarg
mzodarg

Pics of my truck with the AMP power step.    

Posted Images

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

\

How do you like them? I am thinking of getting those as well.

They are awesome and just the right height for me, my short wife and 87 yr old parents. Very well built and they stand behind their products.

Grahamstein Enthusiast

Grahamstein

Posted
Posted

I installed a set of the 5 inch black iboards today. Plenty strong and even at 5 inches they only stock out past the wheels about an inch. There was some room to adjust them in and out, this is them sitting as tight to the truck as I could get them.

 

http://imgur.com/V9Hmuhy.jpg

 

http://imgur.com/x1S9wsP.jpg

 

http://imgur.com/wvygvQc.jpg

sdoyle21 Enthusiast

sdoyle21

Posted
Posted

I installed a set of the 5 inch black iboards today. Plenty strong and even at 5 inches they only stock out past the wheels about an inch. There was some room to adjust them in and out, this is them sitting as tight to the truck as I could get them.

http://imgur.com/V9Hmuhy.jpg

http://imgur.com/x1S9wsP.jpg

http://imgur.com/wvygvQc.jpg

Where did you buy them? Also is there a way to move them up and down? Did you install them yourself? How much? Thanks

Grahamstein Enthusiast

Grahamstein

Posted
Posted

I got them from amazon, right around 200 bucks. There is no way to adjust them vertically.

 

I did the install myself, took about 1.5 hours, but that was because the wind blew the instructions away a few times with me chasing them.

 

The instructions were not spot on, the middle two mounts on mine had existing nuts welded to the body while the instructions said to use the clip-nuts.

 

Just mount everything and line if all up well before tightening anything down.

67ChevyRedneck Enthusiast

67ChevyRedneck

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have the double cab, there weren't any "welded nuts" for my application, I needed to use all the body clips. Easy install. I bought the 4" and tucked them in as far as they would go checking the distance with the frame to make sure they were straight.

 

There are a couple of install videos on youtube, I think one was on a 2015 Sierra. Wasn't a great help, but gave me an idea of what body plugs needed to be removed and where the clips went (the instructions are complete crap.)

 

I just installed mine yesterday. Love em. First pair of running boards that I saw where I said "hey, I actually like those." The look even better with the factory splash guards. I had them on in about an hour, but probably spent another half hour playing with the mounts and board making sure everything was even. This site wont let me copy pics from 67-72chevytrucks.com for some reason, so here's the thread I did with pics:

 

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=697186

 

Mine were $161 free shipping on ebay, but mine were the 4" double cab, the longer cabs and wider boards are more $. I think the 4" provides plenty of step to get into the truck, if you want something you can stand on for some reason you may want to go with the 5".

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161723167718?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I'd like to note the hardware "sticks out" being a shiney silver and the powder coat job on the brackets sucks. I plan on pulling them off this spring and respray all the brackets and hardware a flat black.

Edited by 67ChevyRedneck
antony-454 Enthusiast

antony-454

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am looking into either Raptor,Steelcraft, or Ionic in 4in or 5in with the curved ends in stainless steel. Only problem with raptor is they say they dont fit with the molded mudflaps. Im looking for anyone with experience with either brands and some pictures I just dont want any that hang to low. I have a 2014 silverado crew cab 1500. Thanks for any help

Edited by antony-454
toro1966 Enthusiast

toro1966

Posted
Posted (edited)

Another vote for the Amp powers steps. Love mine!

Edited by toro1966
GooseCreekFarms Enthusiast

GooseCreekFarms

Posted
Posted

A question for you AMP step guys..

 

1. Are they farmer proof? I wish I had a UTV at every farm but I don't and I'm not always in the farm truck.

2. Can I bury my truck to the frame and not mess them up?

3. Do they tuck up tight enough where I won't rip them off?

4. If I am going through a low water crossing will this damage them?

5. Also do they protect from rock chips any? That was my favorite thing about OEM steps because that's all they were good for.

 

I really hate how I slide in and out of my truck, but on all my other trucks with OEM running boards I always stepped over them and got damn dirt on my pants from brushing them. Everyone says they are worth the money, but I don't want to spend the money if I'm going to end up "redesigning" them from my farm & hunting activities.

 

Thanks for the help!

BuyAmericanIron Enthusiast

BuyAmericanIron

Posted
Posted

GooseCreek, here are my answers to your questions.

 

1. Good question. In most cases, I think you will be OK. The AMP boards do require periodic cleaning and lube on the pivot points, which should be no issue for a farmer.

2. Another good question. AMP boards are well designed and very durable. With that said, I am not sure you can bury your truck up to the frame and no cause damage to the boards or the drive motors. Though they are in no way fragile, I doubt they were designed to take that kind of abuse.

3. Another good question. AMP boards tuck up tight (within about 1/4 on an inch) to the bottom of the rocker panels. If you bottom out your frame and rocker panels in the rocks or similar conditions, you will most likely cause severe and non-repairable damage to the boards.

4. Probably not, but possibly. The motors and electrical connections are designed to be waterproof. They are mounted under your truck and see considerable water and snow spray (in the northern climate). A low water splash or dip will not hurt them. If you bury your truck in a creek crossing and the boards are under water for a couple of days before you are pulled out, that may be another story. In this case, you are going to have numerous other issues anyway and the boards will be the least of your concerns.

5. Yes, the AMP boards do provide pretty good protection to the rocker panels from stone damage.

 

AMP boards will help with the sliding on the edge of your seat. For me and my family members, they are just the right height to help with ingress and egress. I can put my left leg out onto the board and easily step out of the truck without sliding on the edge of the seat at all. Same with getting in. Yes they are very well designed, but like everything else, they have a limit to the abuse they can withstand.

  • Like 1
Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

On the AMP boards... I haven't looked in awhile at prices all over the net, but the place I got mine has them for 1299.99 with the plug and play module. There is also free shipping and no sales tax if you live outside of Arizona. So 1299 out the door. The company is Quality Bumper. You will get the warranty as well. The used to run 10, 15 or 20% coupons, (none currently unfortunately). I had a great experience overall with them and can recommend them. Again, not sure if this is the cheapest price out there, but an option.

 

Not sure if the $100 rebate will work through them though. Might be worth looking into.

 

http://www.qualitybumper.com/runningboards_sidebars_steps/powerstep/Default.asp

 

:cheers:

toro1966 Enthusiast

toro1966

Posted
Posted

On the AMP boards... I haven't looked in awhile at prices all over the net, but the place I got mine has them for 1299.99 with the plug and play module. There is also free shipping and no sales tax if you live outside of Arizona. So 1299 out the door. The company is Quality Bumper. You will get the warranty as well. The used to run 10, 15 or 20% coupons, (none currently unfortunately). I had a great experience overall with them and can recommend them. Again, not sure if this is the cheapest price out there, but an option.

 

Not sure if the $100 rebate will work through them though. Might be worth looking into.

 

http://www.qualitybumper.com/runningboards_sidebars_steps/powerstep/Default.asp

 

:cheers:

Think I paid 1060 from Amazon with prime shipping with plug and play.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 460 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AlVeron
      Manufactuer's Defect - Paint Failure - Cherry Red High Country 2021 Suburban

      By AlVeron · Posted

      This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...