Sierra 2WD, rotor/pads opinions needed.

soulweeper · January 16, 2014

I have an '06 Sierra, 2WD,extended cab, automatic. It has 3.23 gears,and I'm pretty sure that's why when I go down a significant hill, which there are a lot of in my area, I can't just simply drop it in second, or even first, depending on the hill, and "tractor" down the hill. It basically free rolls, or close to it. Now I've been doing satellite installation for WildBlue, and travel mountain roads even more than I used to, so it's even more apparent.

So, I have no choice but to ride my brakes, a lot. Well, that is taking it's toll on the rotors, and they're getting small cracks in them. So....the day is coming where I'll do new rotors and pads, obviously. Without changing rear end gears, I can't change the need to ride my brakes, but I'm hoping to take some of the heat off of the rotors by going with maybe slotted rotors when I do the brake job. Someone I know said the drilled rotors have a 100% failure rate, and that slotted rotors are a better way to alleviate some of my problem. It is what it is, the way my truck sits, but he said that slotted rotors would help, but would still have the same issue, but maybe last longer.

Does anyone agree/disagree? I'd like some opinions on what might be best for my situation, as far as rotors, and
pads. Without going to crazy, that is.

I've had suggestions of slotted rotors, EBC, and Centric, and also Summit Racing was mentioned, so I called them.

The guy I talked to was very helpful, and pretty much said the same as what other people said. His first recommendation was high quality pads, and suggested these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-dp61304/overview/

and as far as rotors, he said the slotted would definitely help, and suggested these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-a ... /overview/

He said that would be a good combination, and help with the heat issue.

He also said, if I wanted to save a little money on the rotors, and go with a "better than stock" smooth rotor, to go with this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-1 ... /overview/

and the same EBC pads.

They have a kit, that is $218
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k ... /overview/
with the same premium rotors, put the pads aren't as good.

I'm leaning towards the slotted/dimpled rotors and good pads, but he also said some places won't turn those, and I do live in a small town, so something to think about.
I think I have it narrowed down pretty good, with the suggestions given by other people jiving with Summit racing and whatnot. Any input appreciated!

What do some of you think?

mike94silverado · January 16, 2014

I buy the cheapest "Quality" rotor (no no-name junk) and EBC Pads.... I never turn rotors.... where we are up here they are junk with the salt, etc.... and $60 for rotors every 2 years vs. $25 to have them turned after the 2nd year and maybe getting another year out of them before they start cracking like yours and having to replace anyways

soulweeper · January 17, 2014

I buy the cheapest "Quality" rotor (no no-name junk) and EBC Pads.... I never turn rotors.... where we are up here they are junk with the salt, etc.... and $60 for rotors every 2 years vs. $25 to have them turned after the 2nd year and maybe getting another year out of them before they start cracking like yours and having to replace anyways

Thanks for the input!

Yeah, because work is really slow, and money kind of tight, I'm considering turning them, only because the guy at the machine shop took a look at them when I stopped by there today, and said the hairline "cracks" I have will cut right out. It's not an actual crack, but a kind of spider web, hairline heat check kind of thing. They look like really fine cracks, but he said they aren't out to the edge and really into the rotors. Even he thought slotted was the way to go, but the guy at Summit Racing was saying about what you're saying......while slotted with yellow EBC pads would be ideal, that either turning mine and going with the yellow EBC pads, or going with a new, smooth rotor that is better than say the Bendix, like this one

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-120-66040/overview/

would be miles ahead of what I have going on now, as far as keeping the brakes cooler.

Just curious.....what to you consider a cheap "Quality" rotor. I'm starting to think that going for the yellow EBC pads, and maybe going for smooth rotors might be the way to go, while still saving a little money. They suggested the yellow EBC over the green, as it's supposedly better at handling higher heat, which is definitely the cause of my problems. Whether it's from racing or going down mountain roads like I do, heat is heat. The first guy I talked to at Summit suggested the green EBC, but I guess it's a matter of opinion.

kstruckcountry · January 17, 2014

I have the green EBC on my 2006. The only downside is brake dust pours off them. If that doesn't concern you they're awesome pads in every other way. No squeaks and I did notice they have a lot of bite. Maybe the yellow make less dust?

When you're braking down a grade do you do it constantly? Some say it's better to "pulse" the brakes so they get some time to cool off. I don't know whether it actually helps or not. It could go either way, since cooling them off and heating them up again may not be better than just having them really hot.

I think you'd be happy with new pads and a quality rotor. I wouldn't bother with a slotted one really.

soulweeper · January 17, 2014

When you're braking down a grade do you do it constantly? Some say it's better to "pulse" the brakes so they get some time to cool off. I don't know whether it actually helps or not. It could go either way, since cooling them off and heating them up again may not be better than just having them really hot.

I do the best I can with that. What kills me the most is going downhill on twisting roads.....so slowing enough to go into a downhill turn, coming out of said turn, letting it go as much as I can, to slow down again for yet another turn. It all just depends, but some times it seems like I'm pretty much braking all the way down. It's weird, I might go on roads like that for a week straight, then maybe not encounter that for a few weeks.....it always varies. I know of one road I've ended up on a few times that is so "washboarded", that with my stiff shocks, and the fact that it's such a "light" truck, that I have to almost crawl down, even slower that what putting it in first will allow, if I don't want my teeth to shake out of my head.....you get the idea. Even in first, with a decent grade, it will still almost free roll. Yep.......I use my brakes a lot, so heat is the enemy.

I have read about the dust from these, and that they don't last quite as long, but I guess that's why they can handle the heat and whatnot. Always some kind of trade off. Not sure if the yellow is any better. I'm still wondering the green is sufficient enough. They do claim the yellow is for higher heat situations.

kstruckcountry · January 17, 2014

In your situation I'd try the yellow. I think you'll like the stopping power, I don't have to use my brakes as hard or as long with the EBC pads.

soulweeper · January 17, 2014

In your situation I'd try the yellow. I think you'll like the stopping power, I don't have to use my brakes as hard or as long with the EBC pads.

Yeah, I'm leaning hard towards the yellow, just have to decide whether or not to change the rotors, or turn mine. I know that stock aren't usually considered all that good.