Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

It's a purplish pink wire with a stripe if I recall correctly. It's also very thin since it only carries current for the parking lamps-I think it was 20 awg. It's probably easier to identify it as the wire that connects to the fat yellow wire on the other side of the plug (the headlight plug). Anyways I cut the wire, joined it with an 18 awg wire to signal my relay using a butt splice and heat shrink.

 

I should add you only need 1 relay if you have an HID kit as most HID kits are single input for signal. Because I'm switching the signal wire going to the HID relays I'm not really load carrying so I'm not affecting voltage drop by using one relay/circuit.

So I can get this through my head......lol. From the relay, I'm grounding 85, t off of parking lamp POS wire to 86 and then cut Low beam wire and have one end on 87 then the other on 30.......correct? I'll have to use two relays, I guess, as I'm not using HIDs. Thanks!

Posted

So I can get this through my head......lol. From the relay, I'm grounding 85, t off of parking lamp POS wire to 86 and then cut Low beam wire and have one end on 87 then the other on 30.......correct? I'll have to use two relays, I guess, as I'm not using HIDs. Thanks!

 

86 parking light

85 ground

87 low beam

30 low beam

 

87a (if applicable-not used)

 

Yes, two relays one for each side.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

86 parking light

85 ground

87 low beam

30 low beam

 

87a (if applicable-not used)

 

Yes, two relays one for each side.

Appreciate it!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

If G (wire) in the headlight plug runs the DRLs, couldn't you install a diode in that wire to render them off all the time..........or (cut the wire and tape it up, if you desire)....?

 

Also, the wiring manual shows G to be the wire on both plugs (right/left)....

This is what I was wondering, anyone try it? Guessing too simple or too good to be true.

Posted

I didn't have time to read this but I'm pretty positive my DRL turn off on my Silverado if I just turn off the automatic headlights function.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I didn't have time to read this but I'm pretty positive my DRL turn off on my Silverado if I just turn off the automatic headlights function.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine stay off with auto turned off, until i put mine in gear
  • Like 1
Posted

Mine stay off with auto turned off, until i put mine in gear

Oh, maybe that's it. I'll have to check my reflection next time I can to see if they are on when auto is off. Didn't think about that.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I liked the DRL's until I got HID's. It just adds too many cycles to the ballasts and bulbs. I also found it annoying they went off in park. Imagine being in a drive thru or long line and going in and out of park. I'm looking for a clean way to possibly add Osram LED DRL's to my truck.

Posted

Mine stay off with auto turned off, until i put mine in gear

I checked my reflection behind another vehicle, and when I turn off my auto lights my DRL are NOT on. I have a 2015

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I checked my reflection behind another vehicle, and when I turn off my auto lights my DRL are NOT on. I have a 2015

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

They are depended on where the vehicle was sold. Canadian ones definitely wont turn off. there is DRL forced on during day time, mains are forced on during night.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just completed the relay mod yesterday. It cost me all of $20 for a waterproof relay. I tapped into the parking light power and used it to signal the relay. The relay simply completes or opens the circuit between my factory low beam signal and the HID kit relays. Everything now works like stock Auto, Off, Parking, Parking & Headlights, the only difference is that the DRL's never come on.

 

The best part is without DRL's I've now been able to get rid of my capacitor thus simplifying the setup. And now I'm not cycling my expensive HID's everytime I start the truck and go from drive to park.

When you use a turn signal or hazards, do your Headlights flash?

Posted

When you use a turn signal or hazards, do your Headlights flash?

 

Nope. Parking light circuit is low brightness and not the same as the turn signal circuit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

What is totally stupid is now GM shoves this DRL and Auto headlight stuff at buyers who don't want it (and are forced to pay for it) and make it a PITA to do anything about it. It is not a government requirement (U.S.) and I detest some nanny stuff using the at risk fallacy that someone, somewhere is too stupid to turn their lights on when it is prudent to do so, therefore the OEM has to force everyone to do it 24 hrs a day. I think with well over 5 million miles as a commercial truck driver with no vehicle accidents, I have figured out the best time to run lights and when I don't need them. And I don't like lights coming on at night or low light when dealing with livestock in the field or hunting. I have learned to understand that the OEM's do not build pickups to actually do anything but be cars on steroids and basic transportation on hard roads. Heck, everything that a pickup would actually be used for (and advertised and marketed to do) is considered severe service in the manual. The OEM's figure that the only thing a pickup will be used for is a daily go to work vehicle or grocery getter, and only used to haul a lawn mower to a repair shop. And they think that all their customers are a bunch of rubes who cannot figure out what a headlight switch is for. Of course, there are those folks, but the nanny state "at risk" fallacy permeates the OEM mindset.

  • Like 1
Posted

It's very easy to turn off the headlights.

 

I like the feature, people don't understand that if you can't see the sun, your lights should be on.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 364 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...