Jump to content

Oil gauge

jimj582

By jimj582
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

jimj582 New Member

jimj582

Posted
Posted

This maybe a silly question but i've noticed in my 2014 GMC sierra that the oil pressure gauge moves a lot, even at a stand still. I'm aware that the pressure will change as you accelerate, but it does it while stopped at a red light. Is that normal?

haider320 Enthusiast

haider320

Posted
Posted

Mine moves depending on the amount of acceleration. I don't remember it ever moving at a stop though. I'll have to look next time.

Dulanski New Member

Dulanski

Posted
Posted

My oil gauge will drop at standstill, had the same thing happen with my 2009 & 2013. I don't think that there is reason to be concerned, it has something to do with the two stage oil pump self test.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

I'm gonna say normal. These trucks have a two stage pump as well, which may produce a bit more fluctuation than an older truck.

  • 2 months later...
albe1234 Enthusiast

albe1234

Posted
Posted

Quick question....are these "real" gauges or just some movement created by the ECU? Some vehicles now show an analog gauge where the needle moves with engine rpm but they are just some algorithm written into the ECU not a true indication of engine oil pressure.

Al

  • 6 months later...
Aznative Enthusiast

Aznative

Posted
Posted

my 2014 silverado is at dealer now, oil gauge doing really weird thing. I know when you are sitting idle oil pressure drops and as you accelerate pressure goes up etc. My truck normall sits about 40psi when driving with cruise on at 40mph or so. Just recently the gauge will jump around to up to 60+ back down to 20-25 bounces around like a test meter for maybe 2-4 seconds then settles back to 40psi, first time it did it and I noticed it I had just had oil change I thought oh hell they under filled the oil and I am sucking air? but nope oil level was fine. I don't stare at my gauges but in the last couple weeks I have happened to notice it do the jump around 4 or 5 times even at higher speeds but cruise set no acceleration.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

I can't remember where I read this but the oil gauge will jump around because the system is running through some pressure tests. It does this once every engine on/driving cycle. If you accelerate or drive during this test, the test will stop and resume the next time you come to a standstill which is why you may be noticing this at random times when you're stopped. As long as your pressure stays around 40 for the most part like it should and your computer isn't throwing any codes or dash lights, I don't see a need to worry.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

I'm gonna say normal. These trucks have a two stage pump as well, which may produce a bit more fluctuation than an older truck.

 

 

 

^^^This

  • 2 weeks later...
Trackman101 Enthusiast

Trackman101

Posted
Posted

my 2014 silverado is at dealer now, oil gauge doing really weird thing. I know when you are sitting idle oil pressure drops and as you accelerate pressure goes up etc. My truck normall sits about 40psi when driving with cruise on at 40mph or so. Just recently the gauge will jump around to up to 60+ back down to 20-25 bounces around like a test meter for maybe 2-4 seconds then settles back to 40psi, first time it did it and I noticed it I had just had oil change I thought oh hell they under filled the oil and I am sucking air? but nope oil level was fine. I don't stare at my gauges but in the last couple weeks I have happened to notice it do the jump around 4 or 5 times even at higher speeds but cruise set no acceleration.

Mine does the same thing.

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Quick question....are these "real" gauges or just some movement created by the ECU? Some vehicles now show an analog gauge where the needle moves with engine rpm but they are just some algorithm written into the ECU not a true indication of engine oil pressure.

Al

IPC stepper motors driven by IPC via network connections to other modules including ECM

gone_fishing Enthusiast

gone_fishing

Posted
Posted

Instrument Cluster Oil Pressure Gauge

 

The oil pressure gauge needle oscillation is due to the two-stage oil pump self test. The ECM will perform a functionality test of the two stage oil pump after a cold soak, when the engine is first started and the vehicle is driven.

 

This functionality test will occur three times in a short time span and can be observed on the oil pressure gauge as a brief increase (spike) in the oil pressure gauge needle. Upon completion of the three tests, the self test will not occur again until after the engine is turned OFF and another cold soak has completed.

 

TIP: The exception to this self test occurs if the vehicle has come to a stop BEFORE the three tests have been completed. If that occurs, the self test will run again until the test can complete.

 

Additionally, at 3,500 RPM or greater, the two-stage oil pump switches over to high stage and the oil pressure gauge needle will move to the high position.

 

http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=2139

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Aznative Enthusiast

Aznative

Posted
Posted (edited)

The dealer could not duplicate on mine even though the tech drove it quite a ways I told them it just does it ever so often. Mine does this bounce around after engine has been on quite a while one day I was on the freeway had been driving for 20 mins early morning light traffic cruise on 65 happen to look at oil gauge it jumps up to 60 or more then bounces back to like 25 then moves back up then just as quickly as it starts the gauge settles back into 40psi and does not do it again for a while, it may do it more often than I observe but I don't tend to stare at my gauges, it seems to do it a lot when on cruise control around 40mph if I could safely do it and know when it is going to do it I would video it with my smart ass phone to show the service advisor?

Edited by Aznative
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,056 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...