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Engine Bay Detail Updates??


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Posted

Did a search for engine bay detail and read the posts back to I think, 2010-2011. Any new stuff out there?

 

My number one question is- What do you do after you have come off a desert and everything is caked in dust/dirt? Hit it will air first to knock some of it off?

 

I am a little gun shy of going after my engine compartment with a hose and sprayer. Anybody come up with a new plan?

Posted

I personally would bag off all the electrical, alternator, fuse block, etc and then use a garden hose over a cold engine. Then if you need something more involved just hand wash the rest. Big thing on the engine that I've seen is to avoid getting water down into the knock sensors under your intake manifold. GM put little dams under there but with a pressure washer I would imagine those won't hold up long.

Posted

I avoid all electrical and such get most of the dust rinsed off with a hose on a low power. I do most of my cleaning with a wet rag or towel wiping everything down. A little degreaser helps too. Takes less time than it seems like it would. plus it doesn't have to be as perfect. My 2010 Yukon looks like it has 1000 miles not 30k just because I have always kept it that clean

Posted

I avoid all electrical and such get most of the dust rinsed off with a hose on a low power. I do most of my cleaning with a wet rag or towel wiping everything down. A little degreaser helps too. Takes less time than it seems like it would. plus it doesn't have to be as perfect. My 2010 Yukon looks like it has 1000 miles not 30k just because I have always kept it that clean

Well in that case, I have an engine bay for you to clean here if you don't mind...lol

 

Air hose with low pressure definitely is a good idea. Saves possible damage and keep from blowing crap around and ending up in my eyes. That's the kind of luck I have.

Posted

Well in that case, I have an engine bay for you to clean here if you don't mind...lol

 

Mine still haven't been done yet this year haven't had much time

Posted

Many thanks guys! I just want to keep on top of it from the git-go instead of waiting and then having to deal with it. Think I will just knock the dust/crap off with air and then go after it by hand. My guess that flooding with water and high pressue is not a good idea considering all of the electronics.

Way back in the day you would just pull the air filter, cover the carb and generator or alternator with plastic, douse with de-greaser and turn the hose on it. Not so much anymore....

Posted

Many thanks guys! I just want to keep on top of it from the git-go instead of waiting and then having to deal with it. Think I will just knock the dust/crap off with air and then go after it by hand. My guess that flooding with water and high pressue is not a good idea considering all of the electronics.

Way back in the day you would just pull the air filter, cover the carb and generator or alternator with plastic, douse with de-greaser and turn the hose on it. Not so much anymore....

 

Actually quite the opposite now. All modern engines made since the mid-90s use Weather-Pak connectors that make electrical connections water proof. There's virtually no way you can get water into them if you are just using hose-pressure water.

 

Give it a rinse down with the hose, soak with All Purpose Cleaner on the dirty areas, agitate with a soft brush, and rinse.

 

Check out this video:

 

 

Posted

 

Actually quite the opposite now. All modern engines made since the mid-90s use Weather-Pak connectors that make electrical connections water proof. There's virtually no way you can get water into them if you are just using hose-pressure water.

 

Give it a rinse down with the hose, soak with All Purpose Cleaner on the dirty areas, agitate with a soft brush, and rinse.

 

Check out this video:

 

 

Thanks Nick! All I know is that whenever I tried that with my old 92 F/302, I couldn't get that sucker started for a couple of hours and even still it didn't like it. Will let you know now that I am back again to the bow tie. And hope to stay there.

Posted

Actually quite the opposite now. All modern engines made since the mid-90s use Weather-Pak connectors that make electrical connections water proof. There's virtually no way you can get water into them if you are just using hose-pressure water.

 

Give it a rinse down with the hose, soak with All Purpose Cleaner on the dirty areas, agitate with a soft brush, and rinse.

 

Check out this video:

 

 

This True I Have Done This Myself.

Posted

I use the Adams method with their boar hair wheel and the lug brush. Every so often I go to the spray and pay and use the wheel degreaser or Adams on the hard to reach areas, such as fire wall etc.... and knock it off with the low pressure soft water rinse. If real bad in those areas you may have to use the higher pressure rinse some. Most spray and pays are not that high of pressure. I do not do the entire engine with this method and yes let it cool down some...

Posted

Adams APC and in and out spray took all of 10 mins

 

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my3ehete.jpg

 

 

Ryan

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My 05 engine is filthy and like others I'm dead afraid to ruin anything by trying to clean it. I know connectors are water tight but what about the coil packs, problem being the dirtiest part of my engine right now are the valve covers which 4 coil packs sit atop on each side. Is it ok to blast the engine with water and not have issues with it, like someone else I remember doing this to my 95 zr2 and it not starting till I let it dry out for a few hours, and do not want a repeat of that.

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