am I doing something wrong?

[Doug_Scott]

Was the bolt broken before the head was removed, or did it break while being removed? If bolt is below surface, and was already broken before head was removed, you may be able to use a sharp center punch and walk the remaining bolt out,

If it broke off on disassembly, you are going to need to drill and extract. Depending on you school auto shop's equipment, you may be in luck and have a way to mount the block in a milling machine and do the bolt removal with the milling machine. That way you know it is straight, and will be dead centre, and nothing will move off center.

The last thing you want to try is an ez out or any of those fluted hardened extractors. If the break off in there, good luck getting the hardened parts out.

 

You have an instructor there for a reason, take advantage of it.

[Jsdirt]

That reminds me of the joy I had drilling an extractor out of a thermostat housing boss on a '81 Dodge Omni .... in the parking lot of my ghetto apartment complex in the city. Trust me - you don't want to go through that ...

 

..... nor do you want to live in a ghetto apartment complex.

 

By the time I was finished, the hole went from 1/4" to about 9/16" across. Once I finally got the bits of extractor and drill out of there, I stuck a Bic pen case in there about where I thought the hole was, and packed it full of epoxy putty. Next day, I ran a tap through the hole. I'll be damned if that thing didn't leak a DROP!

 

Then 3 days later, my girlfriend at the time pulled right out in front of someone and totalled it. I was upset because I used my best street signs for floorboards in that thing ...

[truckofwinandawesome]

another Update: the Remains of the Head Bolt are out! my instructor ended up welding a washer and a nut to the remains of the bolt, and it came out without a fight! and I also Learned some things that have been farmed out to Machine Shops. the Lost arts of Valve Grinding, and Valve Seat Grinding! Tomorrow, I will learn how to Lap Valves, and then the Reassembly can Begin!

[Doug_Scott]

another Update: the Remains of the Head Bolt are out! my instructor ended up welding a washer and a nut to the remains of the bolt, and it came out without a fight! and I also Learned some things that have been farmed out to Machine Shops. the Lost arts of Valve Grinding, and Valve Seat Grinding! Tomorrow, I will learn how to Lap Valves, and then the Reassembly can Begin!

 

If your shop class is anything like mine was, you saw the very basics of valve grinding. There is so much more when done in a well equipped shop. Lapping valves is one of those things that will actually show you something useful in its simplicity.

Did he not try to use a small punch and walk the broken part out? Sounds like the bolt was either flush with the deck, or slightly proud of it. He may have been able to weld the washer on edge to the bolt, then use the washer like a skate key to wind it out.

[truckofwinandawesome]

 

If your shop class is anything like mine was, you saw the very basics of valve grinding. There is so much more when done in a well equipped shop. Lapping valves is one of those things that will actually show you something useful in its simplicity.

Did he not try to use a small punch and walk the broken part out? Sounds like the bolt was either flush with the deck, or slightly proud of it. He may have been able to weld the washer on edge to the bolt, then use the washer like a skate key to wind it out.

I actually have a picture of how he did it, but it will have to wait until I get home this afternoon.

 

Sent to the Interwebs via a Bolt of Thunder

[truckofwinandawesome]

Another update, and another problem: its all back together (finding out where all the Accessory Braces go was a Nightmare!) but it won't start; I KNOW it has Spark, because Cap, Button, Wires, and Plugs are Brand new; i was VERY careful about putting it on TDC on #1, and when we shot some fuel down the Throttle Body, it actually hit a couple of times! there is no sound coming from the Fuel Pump, and we are testing the Fuel Pump Circuit for continuity. and more help is welcomed!

[desrtrat]

double check all your grounds..make sure their clean and tight..also new parts dose not mean good. recheck everything..

 

good luck

[Doug_Scott]

Another update, and another problem: its all back together (finding out where all the Accessory Braces go was a Nightmare!) but it won't start; I KNOW it has Spark, because Cap, Button, Wires, and Plugs are Brand new; i was VERY careful about putting it on TDC on #1, and when we shot some fuel down the Throttle Body, it actually hit a couple of times! there is no sound coming from the Fuel Pump, and we are testing the Fuel Pump Circuit for continuity. and more help is welcomed!

 

If it has throttle body, you should be able to see if fuel is being sprayed from the injector. Is there fuel coming out of the injector while cranking engine over? You should also have fuel pressure at the Schrader valve in the test port on the fuel line.

Changing ignition wires, cap and rotor does not mean you have spark. Pull a wire off of a plug, stick a screw driver in the end and hold it close to a ground spot and crank engine. You should see a spark.

[truckofwinandawesome]

double check all your grounds..make sure their clean and tight..also new parts dose not mean good. recheck everything..

 

good luck

 

an Update on that, the MAIN Fuel Pump Ground at the Tank was found to be Completely Severed! I'm already working on a Fix, and will Update Tomorrow!

[MikeNH]

 

Pull a wire off of a plug, stick a screw driver in the end and hold it close to a ground spot and crank engine. You should see a spark.

 

 

Or considering this is a school, they probably have a spark tester.

[truckofwinandawesome]

Update: IT LIVES! had a bit of an issue with the Spark Plug Wires (my instructor thought I had installed the Distributor 180° out, but it turned out I was careful enough to install it CORRECTLY!) but as soon as it ran for a few seconds, old coolant and steam started pouring out of the tailpipe; we removed all of the spark plugs and cranked the engine over to see if there was any coolant going in the combustion chambers, and thankfully there wasn't any.

[Doug_Scott]

Update: IT LIVES! had a bit of an issue with the Spark Plug Wires (my instructor thought I had installed the Distributor 180° out, but it turned out I was careful enough to install it CORRECTLY!) but as soon as it ran for a few seconds, old coolant and steam started pouring out of the tailpipe; we removed all of the spark plugs and cranked the engine over to see if there was any coolant going in the combustion chambers, and thankfully there wasn't any.

 

If the exhaust system had enough coolant in it to completely fill one section, that will make the truck hard to start initially. No exhaust flow, no where for the contents of the cylinder to go. You may find that simply taking the truck for a good run, with some WOT runs to clear the majority of the coolant out. Your muffler should have a small drain hole along the lower edge of the end of the muffler.

[Doug_Scott]

 

 

Or considering this is a school, they probably have a spark tester.

When I went to school, it was usually the newest student in the class that was the ignition lead tester. Most classmates knew enough to not fall for holding the plug end of the plug wire, but, not many would notice that the lead they were holding was the one off the cap from the coil. Depending on the status of the points(yes, that is how old I am, points and condensers in auto class at high school) just turning the key on would give a good jolt without the engine being cranked over.

[truckofwinandawesome]

well, we ran it for a while after Adjusting the Rocker Arms and Setting the Ignition Timing, it Runs BEAUTIFULLY, and the Exhaust cleared right up! but now the Oil Pressure Gauge and the Fuel Gauge are acting very erratic, the Fuel Gauge will bounce around, and the Oil Pressure Gauge is maxed out at Idle, but Drops to about 40 PSI when you run it up to about 2,000-3,000 RPM. (and there will be fresh Gas put in the Tank sometime Tomorrow, because the Exhaust Stank to High Heaven of Stale Gas.) also, after it ran for a while and we stopped the engine, it was hard to Restart and almost acted like the Battery was dead. (i myself think the Starter is getting Heat Soaked)

[Jsdirt]

The gauges, senders, and wiring on these things going all the way back to the 80's certainly left alot to be desired. I'm having the same issue with the fuel gauge and temp gauge on our '89 S10 Blazer - everything was working fine until it sat 3 weeks. Figures, as I have it for sale. The S10 platform wasn't noted for it's superior quality, even when brand new ... so at age 25, this puppy is hurtin'.

 

Could be any one of the 3 - but I'd check the wiring first.