2014 steering binds in turn

sdkeach · June 28, 2014

Hi folks,

I have a 2014 Silverado with 11k miles on it. When I take an exit ramp or curve at say 50 MPH (right turn)...the steering resists or binds when trying to let it recenter. you have to physically move the steering wheel back to the left. after it resists just a bit it lets go and works normally until you cut to the right again an it does it again. When you are in a right turn or curve rather....you can actually let go of the steering wheel and it will stay "locked" to the right then all at once it will cut loose by it self and try to return to center rapidly. but before it does this it is heading for the ditch as though the steering is actually locked to the right.

Took it to the dealer. I swear they did not drive it. they just gave me some sheet of paper stating that at it is normal for the truck to steer harder.. or "resist" at higher speeds.

I aint buying it.....it is almost like in the old days when you had slop in your steering or "free play" if you will and you could undo a nut on the steering gear and adjust the bolt in the center to take the play out of it? When doing this in the old days...if you adjusted that bolt in too tight there would sometimes be a "catch" in the steering or a bind in just one spot.

This problem used to only occur on interstate exit ramps but now it is doing in on curves when doing only 30 MPH or so....it even does in on occasion when doing a simple lane change from left lane to right lane. It is always when trying to return the wheel to center after turning the wheel to the right. It does not do it when the vehicle is not in motion.....

Well there ya go......anyone got any ideas?

MNDaveC · June 28, 2014

Have you tried setting it to 2wd instead of auto 2/4wd?

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N2Black · June 29, 2014

My steering totally went out with only 500 miles on it. I took it to the dealer and they told me the module went out and had to replace the whole rack and pinion unit. It sounds like the unit in your truck is faulty also. When the dealer replace the unit I talked to the tech and he tole me everything has to be realigned and the torque sensor and steering wheel centering to has to be re learned with the computer. I bet yours is going out and needs a new rack and pinion. If they replace it, it will fix the problem. These trucks are new and the techs are having a hard time learning how to fix the new design truck.

sdkeach · June 30, 2014

Thanks a bunch folks......I will be pursuing this further with the dealer(s).

sdkeach · June 30, 2014

There was a recall on this. Try another dealer.

do you have a link for the recall you refer to? i can find one for the tie rod separation but nothing about the rack. i have not been notified about anything which I find odd..//Thanks

sdkeach · June 30, 2014

The only recall for my VIN is the one that just came out about the transfer case shifting to neutral. I had the one done regarding the trans cooler hose fitting check.

fondupot · June 30, 2014

are you driving in 4hi?

GMCustomerService · June 30, 2014

Hi folks,

I have a 2014 Silverado with 11k miles on it. When I take an exit ramp or curve at say 50 MPH (right turn)...the steering resists or binds when trying to let it recenter. you have to physically move the steering wheel back to the left. after it resists just a bit it lets go and works normally until you cut to the right again an it does it again. When you are in a right turn or curve rather....you can actually let go of the steering wheel and it will stay "locked" to the right then all at once it will cut loose by it self and try to return to center rapidly. but before it does this it is heading for the ditch as though the steering is actually locked to the right.

Took it to the dealer. I swear they did not drive it. they just gave me some sheet of paper stating that at it is normal for the truck to steer harder.. or "resist" at higher speeds.

I aint buying it.....it is almost like in the old days when you had slop in your steering or "free play" if you will and you could undo a nut on the steering gear and adjust the bolt in the center to take the play out of it? When doing this in the old days...if you adjusted that bolt in too tight there would sometimes be a "catch" in the steering or a bind in just one spot.

This problem used to only occur on interstate exit ramps but now it is doing in on curves when doing only 30 MPH or so....it even does in on occasion when doing a simple lane change from left lane to right lane. It is always when trying to return the wheel to center after turning the wheel to the right. It does not do it when the vehicle is not in motion.....

Well there ya go......anyone got any ideas?

Hello sdkeach,

I am sorry to hear of the concern you are experiencing with your 2014 Chevrolet Silverado. I understand that you do not agree with the diagnosis you received from your dealership. If you'd like any assistance reaching out to them or if you'd like to contact a different dealership for a second opinion, I'm happy to help. Please send a private message with your full contact information and VIN.

Andraya

GM Customer Care

sdkeach · July 1, 2014

Have you tried setting it to 2wd instead of auto 2/4wd?

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Hi,

Tried this idea and did not make a difference.

sdkeach · July 1, 2014

are you driving in 4hi?

auto and 2 wheel drive....rarely use 4h as auto works great with the TC working.

fondupot · July 1, 2014

auto and 2 wheel drive....rarely use 4h as auto works great with the TC working.

Only use 2HI in dry conditions. Some people will tell you that its OK to run around in auto all the time, but it's not good at all.

I only use AUTO for scenarios where I think ill need extra traction on a take off, or a turn in wet, damp, snowy conditions. Having it in AUTO while cruising around in dry conditions does not help anything as far as traction, it can only hinder gas mileage and add excessive wear to the transfer case and front driveline.

the AUTO system is NOT the same as a full time All wheel drive system like the previous gen Escalades, Yukon/Sierra Denali's, Subarus, Audi's etc. It is a PART TIME 4 wheel drive. That doesn't mean its OK to run around in it all day long. Use it the same you would 4HI. At lower speeds and for shorter time periods.

Its perfectly fine to flip into AUTO at a stop sign, use it to get extra traction on take off, then flip it back into 2HI while going the speed limit. That is how it was designed, to be flipped on/off on the fly.

If this is something you already know, then sorry for repeating it. But hopefully someone who didn't know this info, now does.

Good luck!

sdkeach · July 1, 2014

Only use 2HI in dry conditions. Some people will tell you that its OK to run around in auto all the time, but it's not good at all.

I only use AUTO for scenarios where I think ill need extra traction on a take off, or a turn in wet, damp, snowy conditions. Having it in AUTO while cruising around in dry conditions does not help anything as far as traction, it can only hinder gas mileage and add excessive wear to the transfer case and front driveline.

the AUTO system is NOT the same as a full time All wheel drive system like the previous gen Escalades, Yukon/Sierra Denali's, Subarus, Audi's etc. It is a PART TIME 4 wheel drive. That doesn't mean its OK to run around in it all day long. Use it the same you would 4HI. At lower speeds and for shorter time periods.

Its perfectly fine to flip into AUTO at a stop sign, use it to get extra traction on take off, then flip it back into 2HI while going the speed limit. That is how it was designed, to be flipped on/off on the fly.

If this is something you already know, then sorry for repeating it. But hopefully someone who didn't know this info, now does.

Good luck!

Yes I was familiar with all of the obove but thanks so much for chiming in. Never hurts. You very well may have educated someone else with the info....That is what is cool about the "forum" concept...Have a great day....Dug

Debo3883 · July 2, 2014

My 14 sierra does this. I will be taking it in for that tranny line recall in the very near future and will also have this issue addressed.

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sdkeach · August 12, 2014

below is an email I sent my dealership last night after I dropped it off for the transfer case recall and service/rotate (free service and rotate! woo hoo!) I am hoping they can find what the hell is wrong with my steering today.......

Good day,
Doug Keach here. Here is a link to the video of my truck when the steering sticks or locks up in a right hand curve.
You may need to watch it a few times so you can observe the different details. Like the direction the truck is moving and the seam on the steering wheel is a good reference point for when it sticks. I am filming this vid with a phone in my right hand and steering with my left hand. When I say it is stuck in this vid I have no hand on the wheel……of course at that point I am heading for the ditch. you can see my left hand then come up to the top of the wheel without touching the wheel…. and I give the wheel just a nudge to the left and the wheel then will center up like it should and I change course to straight. I had to be quick with my “nudge” as I was getting ready to go off this exit ramp.
The other day I was executing a right hand exit ramp and everything was going real smooth until I hit a woopty do. When the truck suspension dropped from the hump in the road the steering locked up immediately and then I was in the same situation as it the video.
I hope you can find and fix the issue as the unfortunate part is….it is intermittent.
Thanks for your assistance. Here is the link to the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZm9N8KBqyY

pj8556 · August 13, 2014

I read your post, based on how you explain it, it is very familiar scenario to me. I had same binding but had some clunking noises when turning too, mostly at slower speeds, turning sharply. Long story short, after the inner tie rod boots were removed, (on the pass. side of the steering rack) parts and grease were puking out of the unit, GM replaced it with a new power steering rack under warranty, and all is good now. dealer did have to do some finaggling with GM because it was a "restricted" part due to dealerships replacing entire units when it wasnt needed, all that was needed in most cases was electronics/software changes/replacement. My failure was mechanical.