Jump to content

Low Fuel Light


Recommended Posts

Posted

I usually fill up pretty close to when the light comes on. I typically put in between 23-24 gallons of gas.

Posted

You should fill up before the idiot light comes on. The fuel in the tank helps to cool the fuel pump. You will burn the fuel pump out faster if you constantly run down to empty.

 

Sent from my LGL86C using Tapatalk

Posted

I usually do fill up before the light, idiot. It is my first tank of gas on a new truck.

 

Next time be constructive and answer a question or keep silent if you do not know the answer.

 

Happy 4th!

Posted

I usually do fill up before the light, idiot. It is my first tank of gas on a new truck.

 

Next time be constructive and answer a question or keep silent if you do not know the answer.

 

Happy 4th!

Wow, butt hurt much? That was the most constructive answer given

Posted

Dealers run them near empty all the time....tell them they are destroying new trucks. BTW, where is this in the owners manual?

Posted

You should fill up before the idiot light comes on. The fuel in the tank helps to cool the fuel pump. You will burn the fuel pump out faster if you constantly run down to empty.

 

Sent from my LGL86C using Tapatalk

 

hmmm.....I've run plenty of cars til the fuel light comes on multiple times over. Never had an issue with the fuel pump burning out...

Posted

Sometimes things just make common.... well any way gas is cool (it better be) the pump is in there pumping getting warm, more gas cooler pump. Kinda like a bigger radiator on your car. Got to be better things to argue about.

Posted

 

hmmm.....I've run plenty of cars til the fuel light comes on multiple times over. Never had an issue with the fuel pump burning out...

Same here... been doing it for years on every vehicle I've ever owned. Fuel still goes thru the pump to help keep it cool. I think it's just another one of those common misconceptions.

Posted

Dealers run them near empty all the time....tell them they are destroying new trucks. BTW, where is this in the owners manual?

 

Seriously? Ok I'm out

Posted

Ive seen it print before but some things just aren't worth it.

Posted

Ok all you guys just go to ask dot com. Enough said. Try to help some people...

Posted

I usually do fill up before the light, idiot. It is my first tank of gas on a new truck.

 

Next time be constructive and answer a question or keep silent if you do not know the answer.

 

Happy 4th!

 

You need to read up on the site rules. We don't need any name calling. I was adding to the conversation with a related topic. To fully answer your question depends on driving habits, speed, wind, temp, load, etc, so each vehicle will be different. It is definitely not a cut and dry number. Please excuse my ignorance for trying to put my 10+ years in the automotive field and ASE Master Certification to use and help someone. I'll keep my mouth shut next time you ask something. :)

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

 

 

Posted

The best way to see how much gas you've in the truck is to use the OnStar app I think? It tells you miles and gallons you've left

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...