Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

I think my yukon was one of the 1st with the new exhaust, fixed the buffeting issue for less than a month then it slowly crept back.

Do you still have the booming at slow speed over bumps? I have no buffeting after the new tires but at speeds from 1 to30 mph I notice the booming over rough roads.

Posted

Im also curious to see if anyone tries to switch out the body mounts with the 2017 body mounts.

So far, haven't seen part numbers for 2017 Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban on any of the on-line parts websites I've found. So can't compare part numbers to verify that the 2017 has new body mounts. Also likely means may not be able to order yet.

Posted (edited)

So after my 82 day old Yukon has been in the shop for 62 days on its 4th repair attempt, GM customer service has refused to buy it back and exchange it for a 2017.

 

Thier reason.....get this...GM has bought back too many cars this year.

 

They have agreed to replace the tires with Michelin Premiers. I have also told them that they need to replace the 22s to the Denali 20 rims. And they need to add the dampers to 6.2 exhaust.

 

Side one the exhaust dampers, after denying that they existed to 2 service managers, my most current service manager forwarded them the VIN of another vehicle that had the dampers installed. They then admitted that the dampers exists, but said I don't qualify for them. Can't even begin to understand why.

 

So dampers for the booming, and 20s with Michelins RFB under 10 lbs should resolve these issues.

 

If not, it's lemon law time. Already reached out to an attorney.

 

Plus side, I have co-workers who were buying GMs at the end of the year. A Yukon, Acadia, and another getting A Silverado. They have all moved on to other brands.

 

We've made two payments on the truck and haven't even driven it.

Edited by SierraMyst
Posted

Do you still have the booming at slow speed over bumps? I have no buffeting after the new tires but at speeds from 1 to30 mph I notice the booming over rough roads.

Yes, I still have the booming while traveling at lower speeds over roads that are not smooth.

Posted

Been following this thread since the beginning, waiting for a hope of this problem being resolved. I need a new Suburban pretty soon!

I just read an article about buffeting in the latest Car and Driver that made me think about this thread so I thought i'd just mention it. Their conclusion was that buffeting is caused by outside rear view mirror design. They gave no specific vehicles, just aero testing. Maybe it's related since the mirrors on these vehicles were made smaller in the latest version. Just adding more fuel to the fire.

Posted

Been following this thread since the beginning, waiting for a hope of this problem being resolved. I need a new Suburban pretty soon!

I just read an article about buffeting in the latest Car and Driver that made me think about this thread so I thought i'd just mention it. Their conclusion was that buffeting is caused by outside rear view mirror design. They gave no specific vehicles, just aero testing. Maybe it's related since the mirrors on these vehicles were made smaller in the latest version. Just adding more fuel to the fire.

Outside mirrors??? This makes me laugh. I think they are really pulling at strings at this point.

I took my Yukon BACK to the dealership and road with a GM Field rep again yesterday. They told me to come back today to get my car and that I needed to speak with the service manager. Doesn't sound like good news to me. I will keep everyone up to date on what they say to me.

  • Like 1
Posted

definitely not the mirrors. I've folded them in while driving with no change and I believe in another thread someone removed them to test. It's much bigger than just mirrors. lol

Posted (edited)

Outside mirrors??? This makes me laugh. I think they are really pulling at strings at this point.

I took my Yukon BACK to the dealership and road with a GM Field rep again yesterday. They told me to come back today to get my car and that I needed to speak with the service manager. Doesn't sound like good news to me. I will keep everyone up to date on what they say to me.

 

I dropped the headliner (I own a car garage) and hit the metal roof from the inside with the side of my hand and was able to reproduce the sensation. I'll post a video if you want, but I feel the roof moving is the root of the issue. I'm going to put a GoPro outside and film the roof as I drive and see if I can see it moving.

Edited by Jeff Westley
Posted

definitely not the mirrors. I've folded them in while driving with no change and I believe in another thread someone removed them to test. It's much bigger than just mirrors. lol

 

They made them smaller than they used to be. Maybe folding them in or removing them is the wrong direction to make any difference.

 

 

The go pro thing was done by someone already and it moved as was posted way early in this thread.

Posted (edited)

They made them smaller than they used to be. Maybe folding them in or removing them is the wrong direction to make any difference.

 

I have stock mirrors and my truck does not buffet, not the mirrors. Can't see how outside mirrors can affect inside the cabin with windows rolled-up? Car and Driver may need to stick with the title of their magazine if their comment was in reference to the buffeting with the fullsize SUVs.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

 

I have stock mirrors and my truck does not buffet, not the mirrors. Can't see how outside mirrors can affect inside the cabin with windows rolled-up? Car and Driver may need to stick with the title of their magazine if their comment was in reference to the buffeting with the fullsize SUVs.

 

I guess you need to read the article then?

Posted

I guess you need to read the article then?

 

Don't need to, 'cause if the article is about fullsize GM SUVs buffeting from the side view mirror design, it's a lie. Or else my truck would be buffeting also.

Posted

 

I dropped the headliner (I own a car garage) and hit the metal roof from the inside with the side of my hand and was able to reproduce the sensation. I'll post a video if you want, but I feel the roof moving is the root of the issue. I'm going to put a GoPro outside and film the roof as I drive and see if I can see it moving.

I mentioned this a while back but too big a problem to tackle for most people. Since you can do it, and you have the headliner down, buy a gallon of bed liner, and paint the entire roof. It will be stiff as a rock. That was my plan, to do the roof, pull door panels and get what I could reach and pull back inner liners and do the inside of the quarter panels. Most people think the very thin sheet metal on the entire truck is vibrating like being inside a drum. Stiffening all the panels may help. I decided not to go thru all this and ordered a pick up truck but still follow this thread in case it gets resolved before the pick up arrives.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes.   Yes.   We might be intermingling ideas with the term 'severity', in one of my past vehicles it could pull up DTC via the vehicles own user interface, at any given time when one would do this there would be an assortment of codes that were 'trivial' including 'communication' issues. This would generate a bunch of, potentially false alerts or some many that they would get ignored. Which you mentioned earlier.    You also mention several things that might be redundant with the vehicles own systems or indicators: The truck has an oil pressure gauge, monitoring it via this other system wouldn't be a priority except in comparison to other values or if there is an actual oil pressure problem.   Same thing for miss-fires or other problems, the MIL already signals the operator to an issue...   ...to the point about what one wants to see first, if there is a miss fire detected, I want to see miss fire counts or fuel trims first, if I have an oil pressure problem I want to see the oil pressure first. So, perhaps the 'systems' that are showing abnormalities are what gets displayed first.   I think your device is what connects at the OBD port, ease of use for the consumer, it could still have a 'pass-through' port for a second scanner, computer, etc.   Yes.   Based on my comment above, if an error appears, the report would be more specific to the system having an error.
    • Saturday 87 was 2.98 at the local meijer when I filled up my car with 93.
    • I like the idea.  I thought about putting a deposit a few years ago when they first dropped.  I still want to drive one and have inquired about doing this with them, like a ride and drive event they said they are coming but it hasnt happened even with them built in Indiana.  
    • That's a tough spot to be in, I personally would question spending 1/2 the book value on a repair vs. selling it as-is.    Presuming you own it out right, sell it for 10k and have a down payment for a replacement truck, or spend 10k on the one you already have...   I still think there is a cheaper transmission out there via recyclers, aftermarket or rebuild. (Cheaper than 5k for the unit)
    • Sadly, there's a drought of good 92-95 4.3 cars at junkyards in the area otherwise I would have gone fishing for parts. Not that they don't come up, there's just nothing good in the yards right now.   I tore into the intake yesterday evening, easier than I thought, and I might have this problem licked for cheap. Two of the intake studs came up with the bolt on removal, no big deal but that's why it looks funny with studs only on one side.   There's pooled gas on both sides of the plenum. Highlights boxed in green. Picture-right side has an obviously split pressure line from rubbing on the #5 injector nylon line. #5's line is worn in that spot but not all the way through. Passenger side intake (picture left), not sure, but I think the pressure regulator is hosed. Rebuilt spiders don't come with the pressure and return hoses so I'll need to replace those no matter what. A pressure regulator is $30 so I'll try that and if I end up having to swap the whole spider, it was $30. I'll be grinning ear to ear if that's all I need.   Parts arrive Tuesday.   Sure enough the shop was here before. That's a new gasket. Vacuum lines and wiring are a tangled mess, I sorted that out last night as well. Spent about an hour just picking up general slack and shoddy reassembly around the engine bay. Cheek-pokered the battery tray, got it all cleaned up. Sometimes things just need a little elbow grease and a few minutes of time to be right again.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...