Jump to content

Speed limiter??

440hsp

By 440hsp
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

Really, they have been plenty of sport trucks over the years from the big auto makers. TRD, SS , Lightning to name a few. The truck is one of the easiest platforms to make ( mod) into anything your heart desires. You sir are way out of line.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply
kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

Lol, those "idiot" engineers trying to help people by making it so the truck won't disintegrate going 140. What the hell do they know.

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
Posted

 

These are trucks not sports cars. again. These are trucks, NOT sports cars. Here is some info to help some of you out since you obviously don't know what you are driving.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truck

A truck (United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand) or lorry (United Kingdom and Ireland) is a motor vehicle designed to transport cargo. Trucks vary greatly in size, power, and configuration, with the smallest being mechanically similar to an automobile. Commercial trucks can be very large and powerful, and may be configured to mount specialized equipment, such as in the case of fire trucks and concrete mixers and suction excavators.

Modern trucks are largely powered by diesel engines exclusively, although small to medium size trucks with gasoline engines exist in the US. In the European Union, vehicles with a gross combination mass of up to 3,500 kilograms (7,716 lb) are known as light commercial vehicles, and those over as large goods vehicles.

 

 

For you rednecks:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=truck

truck

A vehicle of a redneck, which he drives to a date with his girlfriend instead of carring grass for cows.

Wow. Talk about being out of touch with reality...

 

Ok, GMC Syclone. Pretty hard to confuse it with a "sports car", yet is has a 500# load limit and ZERO # tow rating. My wife's Bonneville has a higher load and tow rating.

 

Oh, and zero->60 in <4.5 seconds. Clearly somebody should educate GM on what a "truck" is since they are just confusing us consumers now.

Sooperdave Enthusiast

Sooperdave

Posted
Posted

6.2 NHT pkg 98mph......and it pisses me off every time I get in the truck. Not that I drive faster than that very often. I don't like the idiots at GM telling me how fast I can go.

Are you sure you're hitting 98? Mine just seems to barely peg 95 every single time. Definitely aggrevating! I can't even hammer past someone on the interstate without hitting it. LOL

BBRU Enthusiast

BBRU

Posted
Posted

Are you sure you're hitting 98? Mine just seems to barely peg 95 every single time. Definitely aggrevating! I can't even hammer past someone on the interstate without hitting it. LOL

 

Sometimes it feels like it cuts off before 98mph

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Stock my 6.2 with the 3.42's was at 112mph, since I tuned it I took the limiter out of the tune.

  • 2 weeks later...
Sooperdave Enthusiast

Sooperdave

Posted
Posted

Stock my 6.2 with the 3.42's was at 112mph, since I tuned it I took the limiter out of the tune.

 

Interesting. 3.73's here.

slovarado Enthusiast

slovarado

Posted
Posted

14 SCSB 4x4 5.3, cuts off at 112 on the dot, verified it with gps to make sure my speedo wasn't off.

Harry-Nips Enthusiast

Harry-Nips

Posted
Posted

I have an SLT crew cab with 6.2L engine, 3.73 diff & 20" eagle tires (tow package) that tops out at 160 km/h.

 

My buddy's Denali with 6.2L engine, 3.42 diff & 20" Wrangler tires (Z71 package) tops out at 180 km/h.

 

My truck gets there a lot faster but I don't understand why his speed limiter is higher, especially with the tire difference. His truck was built a month or two after mine, and I picked mine up in March this year.

Tqjunkie Enthusiast

Tqjunkie

Posted
Posted

I have an SLT crew cab with 6.2L engine, 3.73 diff & 20" eagle tires (tow package) that tops out at 160 km/h.My buddy's Denali with 6.2L engine, 3.42 diff & 20" Wrangler tires (Z71 package) tops out at 180 km/h.My truck gets there a lot faster but I don't understand why his speed limiter is higher, especially with the tire difference. His truck was built a month or two after mine, and I picked mine up in March this year.

obviously you must have raced your buddy just curious how far ahead of him you are when you hit 160 and it shuts down
  • 9 months later...
TylerTincher New Member

TylerTincher

Posted
Posted

https://vimeo.com/138397886

Here is my 2014 Sierra 1500 CrewCab SLT 5.3 with 3.42 gears on stock tune with no muffler. I had the pedal on the floor the whole time. I'm pretty sure GM set the speed limit because they know the hollow aluminum driveshaft can't go any faster.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

https://vimeo.com/138397886

Here is my 2014 Sierra 1500 CrewCab SLT 5.3 with 3.42 gears on stock tune with no muffler. I had the pedal on the floor the whole time. I'm pretty sure GM set the speed limit because they know the hollow aluminum driveshaft can't go any faster.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't understand why we keep pointing at an aluminum driveshaft as being the weak link. I have read this many times on this board. Is there something about these that is failing? I put 640hp to the ground in a 4400lb 96 impala that had an aluminum drive shaft and it would pull the front left wheel on a 200shot of nitrous out of the hole. I can probably dig up a video if I have to. This car withstood 6 years of solid abuse with ZERO driveshaft issues.

Bottom line... If our driveshaft is failing, it's not because it's aluminum. I'll buy poor material grade choice, too thin of wall (my driveshaft wall was .125), poor welds/craftsmanship etc.

And I certainly don't see how rotation speed is going to make it weaker... Applying 640hp from a dead stop is going to produce much more abuse.

 

As soon as I get some info on what ours is made of exactly, I'll try to do some calcs on it.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

rongotti Enthusiast

rongotti

Posted
Posted

What is the best option to raise the limiter above 98MPH? I see a bunch of tuners out there, any good or bad experiences with them?

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

BBRU Enthusiast

BBRU

Posted
Posted

What is the best option to raise the limiter above 98MPH? I see a bunch of tuners out there, any good or bad experiences with them?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Diablo intune is probably your best options

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 432 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...