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Power steering harness help ASAP


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Posted

Thanks for your help. First side took 2.5 hours as everything went wrong and I was learning. Second side took about 30 min.

 

I cut a 6mm Allen down to tighten the upper ball joints as both of mine spun. I don't own a 21mm deep well socket or ratcheting wrench so the tie rod end bolts were frustrating.

 

Next weekends project is to add the rear blocks. It can't be as hard, can it?

Posted

Thanks for your help. First side took 2.5 hours as everything went wrong and I was learning. Second side took about 30 min.

I cut a 6mm Allen down to tighten the upper ball joints as both of mine spun. I don't own a 21mm deep well socket or ratcheting wrench so the tie rod end bolts were frustrating.

Next weekends project is to add the rear blocks. It can't be as hard, can it?

I only did the front 2" kit on mine, just the lower spacers. I haven't done the back so I can't comment on the difficulty but just from looking it seems pretty straight forward. When you do the back don't forget to check everything on the front with a wrench just to be sure nothing loosened up.

 

Edit: I never understood what the point of the 2.5" level kit was because you raise the front 2.5" and then raise the back to compensate for raising the front 2.5" instead of 2". With the 2" kit you just raise the front with lower spacers and your done.

Posted

I only did the front 2" kit on mine, just the lower spacers. I haven't done the back so I can't comment on the difficulty but just from looking it seems pretty straight forward. When you do the back don't forget to check everything on the front with a wrench just to be sure nothing loosened up.

 

Edit: I never understood what the point of the 2.5" level kit was because you raise the front 2.5" and then raise the back to compensate for raising the front 2.5" instead of 2". With the 2" kit you just raise the front with lower spacers and your done.

I went with 2.5" because I'm looking for maximum groung clearance for my front bumper/ air dam. I'm an estimator/project manager for a commercial excavating company and I have to make site visits to land that has no access. I'm regularly driving over curbs, railroad ties, rocks, clods, creek crossings, etc, etc. I have trashed my air dam in the short time I've owned my truck. My last truck was an F150 with off road package and it sat roughly 2"-3" higher than my silverado WITH the 2.5" level. I know .5" isn't much, but I'll take it.

Posted

Right now it sits exactly level (38 1/8" front and back) and I love the way it looks. I regularly haul an ATV or pull a trailer; I only want to add the blocks to combat sag in the rear when I have a heavy load.

Posted

I went with 2.5" because I'm looking for maximum groung clearance for my front bumper/ air dam. I'm an estimator/project manager for a commercial excavating company and I have to make site visits to land that has no access. I'm regularly driving over curbs, railroad ties, rocks, clods, creek crossings, etc, etc. I have trashed my air dam in the short time I've owned my truck. My last truck was an F150 with off road package and it sat roughly 2"-3" higher than my silverado WITH the 2.5" level. I know .5" isn't much, but I'll take it.

Yes, I agree I can see where you would definitely need the clearance.

 

Edit: I think most people do it just to get some of the rake out.

Posted

Moderator; best answer, to what?

 

Edit: the original post was related to the electric steering harness while He was installing a level kit.

Posted

Moderator; best answer, to what?

 

 

 

 

Don't know. You'd need to ask whomever marked it that way

Posted

 

 

Don't know. You'd need to ask whomever marked it that way

I tried to mark it as solved since I said I needed help ASAP.

Posted

Ok, i didn't know we could do that, I thought it was just the moderators, cool.

Posted

I tried to mark it as solved since I said I needed help ASAP.

When I finished putting on my level kit I backed out of the drive way and started to take off and I heard a terrible screeching sound, I said "oh shit WTF is that" of course as always it was getting late and I didn't want to tear it apart again. I pulled forward, no screech, "hummm", I got out and looked, nothing was binding or rubbing that I could see. I backed out again, put it in drive and started to take off, SCREECH, SCREECH, I said "WTF again" and then looked at the instrument cluster, guess what, the park brake was on. Damn, what an instant relief that was. Lol

Posted

Next weekends project is to add the rear blocks. It can't be as hard, can it?

Depending on how long the u - bolts that come with the kit are, yes it can be just as aggrevating. Not technically as hard but aggrevating none the less. You will need a good deep well socket or ratcheting open end wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench you are going to be a while tightening since they are lock nuts and hard the whole way up. Also make sure you have a couple of ratchet straps, if the rear axle twists a little it can be hard to get the pin slots in the blocks and leaf pack to line up. You can wrap one end of the strap toward the end of the axle by the spring perch and the other back to the tow hitch. Easiest way I have found to do it anyhow.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Please I need help to make up electrical connections on 2014 GMC Terrain electric power steering module connector.

Forgot to remove the socket before dropping the beam and it damaged the connector wires

The colors are

1. Blue

2. Brown with black stripe

3. Brown with black stripe

4. Brown

5. Brown

It’s easy to connect the blue wire to the other part. But I’m confused with 2-5 since the colors are the same.

I need help

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