2014 Spare/Extra Battery Tray Use/Connections

Mad Max · October 16, 2014

My truck comes with a spare battery tray on the front left of the engine compartment and I would like to hook up and additional battery that I can remove and use for my ham radio when I'm inside the house or camping without a/c power.

I'm wondering how I can tell if my alternator charging system can handle it?

If so, do I just need to run a black from the new battery directly somewhere nearby to ground (hopefully without drilling any holes) and a red to tap into the existing red battery cable somewhere - neatly, using quick disconnects near the spare battery?

Then there would need to be a way to clamp/unclamp the spare battery quickly (I could probably use some wing nuts)

Anyone tried this have any suggestions or pictures of a neat way to do it?

szalkerous · October 29, 2014

I believe the only method that you're going to be allowed is to run the battery in parallel -- meaning it is hooked to the primary starting battery positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative. The batteries must match in type, capacity, and amperage.This doesn't cause any excessive strain on your charging system, as it "sees" them as one giant battery.

Another option is to install an isolator system. This is a lot more expensive, but allows you to charge the second battery while the truck is running, use it to power certain accessories, and it will not be used to crank the motor over. This option is a lot more rare on passenger trucks until you get up to the 3/4 and 1-ton commercial setups.

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 30, 2014

Isolator system is probably your best/safest bet. I've been thinking about adding a second battery and iso system ever since I found the second battery tray in my '14 Sierra. I know Painless Wiring sells some kits, but looking to see what other options might be.

Spurshot · October 30, 2014

I had a Painless isolator on my 08. Works great. A bit pricey.

richard10688 · October 30, 2014

Check out this article I was thinking about trying this out to run an audio setup off the second battery..

http://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/double-up/

szalkerous · October 30, 2014

Not advocating any particular site or merchant, but this link might give you an idea of pricing and options, roughly:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Electrical/Dual-Battery-Isolator.aspx?t_c=72&t_s=12&t_pt=5250&Manufacturer_PQ=Painless+Wiring

Mad Max · October 31, 2014

I was just checking back in here for updates and saw these great posts. Richard I was just going to post the same link you posted. Looks great and the Painless brand looks to be the same thing. I like the idea of the AGM battery and that's what the workingtruck guys did with the C/H isolator. And I have almost every tool in the world but don't have a battery cable crimper - nutz. There's always something!

Then to run the Ham and CB and any other crap I'll probably find to run I'll need to run the #12 black and white through the firewall somewhere and terminate them on some kind of block again somewhere. I haven't put any holes in my truck yet and I'm going to try not to. I'm thinking in the rear of the center console area. Maybe find a spot in the firewall to poke through a Black/White #12 tinned sheathed marine romex type of stranded wire, run it under the carpet, under the center console and maybe find something with well protected binding posts with wingnuts.

Then put some stake on terminal ends and power pole quick connectors inline with the radios and maybe a cigarette lighter adapter or two. Dewalt has a nice 18volt XRP tool battery charger that will plug into one of those, and an inverter larger than that pissy little one built into the truck will come in handy as well. Power pole connectors make all that pretty easy. Still haven't figured out what to use for some protected binding posts / terminal block yet though because I'd rather not drill any holes.

Haven't looked at the battery/fuse connections for the main battery yet either to find out where to connect everything.

Now I'm really pissed there is no under hood light! My Jeeps and vans have all had that for the past 10 years! Add that to the list too I guess...

And it's getting cold here fast - I gotta get this done soon or it'll have to wait for springtime. This is going to be painfu$$. I'll give Painless a call. Thanks again everyone!

BTW, I installed a SH4UHF mount that fits in the stake holes (I cut them out using the trace marks there as a guide) and I had to modify them because the rubber block wouldn't compress nearly enough. So I dumped it and cut and drilled a thick L shelf bracket to the right length to use as a clamp on the inside of he stake hole. The mount is excellent because I can use it with my semi-hard bed cover. It extends out beyond the side just enough to clear the top of the bed. There is a tiny bit of light coming through but I think I can seal it with some weatherstrip if need be. I can mount the Yaesu ATAS-120a antenna to that one.

Going to adapt a similar one for the Wilson 5000 Trucker CB antenna on the other side's stake pocket.

That way I can unscrew the antennas when I'm parking in the city or going into a garage.

Mad Max · October 31, 2014

Then there's this for a whole lot less $$:

http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr

A lot less for charging and battery back up capability, but it would work for a smaller battery.

Payday here on outlets and connectors, etc:

http://www.powerwerx.com/

szalkerous · October 31, 2014

Almost any setup will work appropriately if you do your research and line up all the numbers first.

We're going to possibly get snow this weekend, so all my projects are on season hiatus with the exception of my Camaro in the heated garage (which sadly doesn't fit my truck...)

Good luck!