Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

that leads me to think they are just either not close to the top of the leather, or dont get as hot as other manufacturers.

 

They just don't get as hot when remote starting. When I get in and have the truck running and start moving. They get HOT on the 3 light setting after a few mins.

Edited by fondupot
Posted

Cold day here in Ohio and I was wearing a light jacket. When I got into the truck and fired up the seats on "full 3 power" I noticed the high portion of the seat back didn't heat up. The butt and lower back was fine. Anybody else have that as an issue?

Posted

Cold day here in Ohio and I was wearing a light jacket. When I got into the truck and fired up the seats on "full 3 power" I noticed the high portion of the seat back didn't heat up. The butt and lower back was fine. Anybody else have that as an issue?

Sounds normal. What you describe is what I've always experienced with heated seats that do the bottom and lower back. Normally, you can tell the sections apart by the horizontal stitching/seams. My 99 was the same way, also.

Posted

anyone figure out how to get them on with remote start? it was 27 this morning and nothing. I turned them on before turning truck off. does auto have to be selected? because my heater didn't heat the truck up either ??

and heated steering wheel doesn't come on either.

Posted

I don't think my seats are working either but yes, I think auto does need to be selected for the hvac and the heated steering wheel is manual only. I don't know if there's a difference between using the fob and using remotelink.

Posted

In order for the HVAC heat to work you have to leave the HVAC system on in the mode you will want to be used when remote starting the truck. This system does not work like prior GM vehicles where the system would automatically choose Heat or AC depending on outside temps.

 

So if you want heat, leave the system on at the temp and fan speed you want along with either dash/floor/ or windshield being chosen.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just got my truck back from dealer so I wasn't able to test this out till today. I got home today set the heat at 77 degrees no auto setting and lowest fan speed set to the floor. I started truck few hours later with remote start it's now 28 degrees outside, after 5 minutes I get in truck nice and toasty. A few things I noticed the fan speed was alot higher than I had left it and the heat was hitting windshield defrost setting not coming from the floor. The seats aren't super hot like they are when I turn them on high, but I believe they are on. When I turn key in ignition to on, my heat settings return to the way I left them 77 degrees low fan, expect rear defrost is on. So I have to say I'm liking everything it does in cold weather so far.

Posted

In order for the HVAC heat to work you have to leave the HVAC system on in the mode you will want to be used when remote starting the truck. This system does not work like prior GM vehicles where the system would automatically choose Heat or AC depending on outside temps.

 

So if you want heat, leave the system on at the temp and fan speed you want along with either dash/floor/ or windshield being chosen.

 

I thought the same, until this winter. Go to your truck and crank with key, turn it to HI, sync, auto. Then hit the fan power button to turn the system "off". Turn off then remote start the truck. That sucker fires up full blast defrost. Remember, the last setting was "off"? I wish I had the patience to test more like different temps, but I was really surprised to find out when the system is off, it still turns on during remote start.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

In order for the HVAC heat to work you have to leave the HVAC system on in the mode you will want to be used when remote starting the truck. This system does not work like prior GM vehicles where the system would automatically choose Heat or AC depending on outside temps.

 

So if you want heat, leave the system on at the temp and fan speed you want along with either dash/floor/ or windshield being chosen.

 

mine must be working differently then, I've used auto for the last six months set at 70. cool in the summer, warm in the winter. Although you seem to contradict yourself, if you are setting the temp and the heat is coming on, then it must know it's cold outside. I thought I had read here to use auto with the remote start for best results, or maybe I'm just misunderstanding you. Or more likely no one actually knows all the combinations that work, or half the trucks are one way and half the other, haha

Edited by thefishhawk
Posted

I don't use the "Auto" mode on my HVAC as I don't like the system telling me how cool/hot and the fan speed I want. on my previous GM trucks and my G8 GXP it didn't matter what state you left the HVAC when you went key off. When you remote started the vehicle the system would automatically turn on in either heat mode on the windshield or AC mode on the dash vents.

 

This truck does not work that way, at least not if you are using the "manual" mode.

Posted

I don't use the "Auto" mode on my HVAC as I don't like the system telling me how cool/hot and the fan speed I want. on my previous GM trucks and my G8 GXP it didn't matter what state you left the HVAC when you went key off. When you remote started the vehicle the system would automatically turn on in either heat mode on the windshield or AC mode on the dash vents.

 

This truck does not work that way, at least not if you are using the "manual" mode.

 

what im saying is that in some circumstances it does. if you see what i said the system was off when the truck was turned off, and when you remote start, it actually turns on. i believe the truck stays in some modes it considers auto and will warm up your truck for you like the old models. my next test is going to be leaving the system on hi, and turning off the compressor.

Posted

I use the remote start everyday since I bought the truck. During the coldest days of winter or the hottest days of the summer the truck has never "automatically" turned on the HVAC while it was in remote start mode. Main reason I know why is during the summer months when I drive into work it is cool enough that I drive in with the windows down and the HVAC is turned off. When I come out to the truck while it is running under remote start mode the HVAC is not running at all.

 

I can tell you that since it got cold last week that while under remote start mode the heated seats were on and working.

 

I need to have the dealer look into the HVAC module. This summer I noticed while running the AC that if I pressed the button to turn the AC off but left the HVAC system on so that the fan could continue to blow air thru the vents that the AC never turned off. Air would stay just as cold as it was with the AC turned on. Tested this out for 30 minutes so I know it wasn't residual cold air from the internals of the vents. Then I would turn the HVAC off then back on and with in minutes the air would stop coming out cold and would come out at what ever the outside ambient temps are at the time.

 

Makes me wonder if I have a defective HVAC control module. I am going to have the dealer look into on the next oil change.

Posted

Hey TJay74,

 

Sorry to hear about your HVAC concerns! Feel free to send us a private message close to when you plan to get this checked out by your dealer. We'd be happy to reach out on your behalf and follow up. We'll be on the lookout for any updates in the meantime.

 

Sincerely,

 

Eddie A.

GM Customer Care

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...