Jump to content

2500HD mod questions/suggestions

brad519

By brad519
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

brad519 Enthusiast

brad519

Posted
Posted

Ok I hate the way the truck looks with the stock tires. Will 33x12.50x18 work without any level, lift, etc? Can that size tire be ran on the stock wheels?

2500 HD Z71 with 265/70/18 stock tires.

I'm sure I will have some more questions regarding this matter but let's start with these..haha

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted

You might be able to fit 33's by maxing out the stock keys but you should get keys to be safe.. I just put on 33's and they rub bad even leveled but they are in 20x10's

Shutter Enthusiast

Shutter

Posted
Posted

I was told i wouldnt be able to fit 275/70r18 (33.2in) because they would rub. I ended up going with 285/65r18 which are stock diameter (32.6)but almost an inch wider. Ill let you know if they fit

CAtaylor Enthusiast

CAtaylor

Posted
Posted

Ok I hate the way the truck looks with the stock tires. Will 33x12.50x18 work without any level, lift, etc? Can that size tire be ran on the stock wheels?

2500 HD Z71 with 265/70/18 stock tires.

I'm sure I will have some more questions regarding this matter but let's start with these..haha

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am going to be putting 295/70 18 ST Maxx tires, 34.4×12, on mine in the next couple of days and will let you know. They have guys running 295/65 20's with level kits on factory wheels with no fender trimming. They do rub the sway bar and frame though; these tires are 35.5× 12". I ran 33x12.50 20's on my 12 factory wheels with a couple turns on the t-bars with no rubbing and the 15 wheel wells are larger.

brad519 Enthusiast

brad519

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How bad is it on the front end if you turn the t-bars? I don't mind a stiffer ride In just leery of doing anything detrimental to the front end. I looked at the cognito stage 3 level with new control arms and all but it's almost as much as a suspension lift. I want to do it right but I'm not sure what route to take.

 

Definitely let me know how the new tires turn out guys.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CAtaylor Enthusiast

CAtaylor

Posted
Posted

How bad is it on the front end if you turn the t-bars? I don't mind a stiffer ride In just leery of doing anything detrimental to the front end. I looked at the cognito stage 3 level with new control arms and all but it's almost as much as a suspension lift. I want to do it right but I'm not sure what route to take.

 

Definitely let me know how the new tires turn out guys.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you turn up the bars it will definitely ride a little stiffer. As long as you don't go overboard it won't hurt anything. You want to leave atleast 5/8" between the control arms and the drop stop with the trucks weight on it.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

I was told i wouldnt be able to fit 275/70r18 (33.2in) because they would rub. I ended up going with 285/65r18 which are stock diameter (32.6)but almost an inch wider. Ill let you know if they fit

275/70/r18 fit on my 1500, I have an RC 2" front lift and 3" rear blocks but they would have fit without

 

They are 33" tall too

 

4fc9dfe85cd391b2a01136aafca4ffc4.jpg

 

 

Ryan

brad519 Enthusiast

brad519

Posted
  • Author
Posted

275/70/r18 fit on my 1500, I have an RC 2" front lift and 3" rear blocks but they would have fit without

 

They are 33" tall too

 

4fc9dfe85cd391b2a01136aafca4ffc4.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Come to think of it I believe I had 275/70/18s on my 08 1500 with a level also.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

brad519 Enthusiast

brad519

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am going to be putting 295/70 18 ST Maxx tires, 34.4×12, on mine in the next couple of days and will let you know.

Definitely let me know how these work out.

I was really wanting the BFG's KO2 but they dont have a decent size. Those ST Maxx look nice if they fit good.

CAtaylor Enthusiast

CAtaylor

Posted
Posted

Definitely let me know how these work out.

I was really wanting the BFG's KO2 but they dont have a decent size. Those ST Maxx look nice if they fit good.

Will let you know. Tire place just called and they will be in Weds.

brad519 Enthusiast

brad519

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will let you know. Tire place just called and they will be in Weds.

Ok Thanks

brad519 Enthusiast

brad519

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They should fit easily if you crank. And I'd crank the stock keys 2" before I'd waste my money on leveling keys.

I was planning on cranking the stock keys but wasn't sure how detrimental it will be to the front end. I've been reading on other forums about getting cognito UCA's and shock extenders and stock keys but as you can see I'm not that knowledgeable in this subject.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

I've run both. I've used reindexed keys and factory keys. If I cranked much passed 2" regardless of which keys I was using, the ride became harsh. Anyway, keys are keys. On some trucks, for whatever the reason, the factory keys don't allow for much adjustment before theyre maxed out. If this is the case, then you need leveling keys. If you're able to get 2" out of your stockers, which most are, then don't wast your money. And when cranking 2 to 2.5" you don't really need shock extensions and UCAs. Longer shocks help, but it's not necessary. Long story short, the ride won't be any harsher cranking the stock keys vs leveling keys. Over crancked is over cranked.

CAtaylor Enthusiast

CAtaylor

Posted
Posted

I've run both. I've used reindexed keys and factory keys. If I cranked much passed 2" regardless of which keys I was using, the ride became harsh. Anyway, keys are keys. On some trucks, for whatever the reason, the factory keys don't allow for much adjustment before theyre maxed out. If this is the case, then you need leveling keys. If you're able to get 2" out of your stockers, which most are, then don't wast your money. And when cranking 2 to 2.5" you don't really need shock extensions and UCAs. Longer shocks help, but it's not necessary. Long story short, the ride won't be any harsher cranking the stock keys vs leveling keys. Over crancked is over cranked.

One thing I don't understand that maybe you can shed some light on since you have experience here. All of the vendors recommend shock extenders when cranking the bars and also, most people that have done it. In stock form, when I jacked up my truck to adjust the bars, the control arm sat about 1/16" off of the bump stops. This did not change even after I cranked the bars up; I only went 2" but had more left. If you add the extenders to the shocks won't that just make the factory control arms bottom out on the stops? I understand the shocks are the limit in the down travel of the suspension and I could see the purpose in the extensions if I were changing control arms but I really don't see the point if running the stock arms; possibly only cause issues and make the ride worse.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ryan35205
      Lets Talk Z60 Suspension

      By ryan35205 · Posted

      Did the KYBs keep it the same height in the front? I was concerned that pre-assembled assembly would raise it up an inch to standard non-z60 height.. I guess which it would make the rake 1 inch instead of 2 inches.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Thank you for keeping the train on the tracks and for a thoughtful engagement. I enjoyed the reflection on a previous stance to refine and improve your position. I like that inquisitive flexibility about you Atlas.    No the process isn't sterile. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of piping, vessels, pumps. Chevron, the people I worked for, were keenly aware that there is a market for what is known as their "ISOCLEAN" line of lubricants. These are lubricants that are the same as those sold bulk that are further processed by filtration to a level your particular application demands. They will filter and package and provide lab documentation as required. Do not kid yourself. Every gallon of oil that goes into a Chevron Turbine, reciprocating compressor, generator is prefiltered and tested before being charged. Lest wise it was when I was there in the plants I worked in.    There are requirements set by manufactures for the cleanliness of the oils used in their equipment. OTR such as CUMMINS has standards shared with customers on this. Commercial interest selling to Ma and Pa do, but don't share that information. Not even upon request but internally, they do exist.    The GM study sited, (Graph from Machinery Lubrication in previous post) only shows "relative" importance.  I find that fascinating. By constructing the graph like this they admit there are dozens of factors in engine life and via scientific method determined the effect of 'relative cleanliness' on engine life not in miles but in 'FACTORS'. This allows a certain amount of reverse engineering does it not?   They even provided some touchstones. Beta 75 as a reference point. Wonderful stuff!!   Smaller blenders CAN and some DO take the time and effort to do better than a refinery or large bulk blender, like Warren Oil, in improving the "in the can" cleanliness. No I don't have a list but testing could generate that information.    Again, but one of several levers we can pull to improve engine life. The simplest is keeping a clean work station while doing your own oil changes.     
    • Mykel544
      New Guy from Oklahoma

      By Mykel544 · Posted

      Thank you. I'll give it a try 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I just spent the last 45K miles doing samples every oil change over more than a full year to get the data for seasons and break-in to broke in.    I found the same thing to be true. Something was always teetering on done or had stepped off the cliff long before the OLM was DOA. In fact, I found about a thousand mile difference between summer and winter. That is during the winter half the OLM was STILL too long. Even the severe schedule was to long in the winter.   Now having done the work I can say I was NOT DISAPOINTED. I saw nothing I didn't already know. Nothing my father hadn't already demonstrated in his 2K OCI's pushing dated iron on dated oils and weak filters to mileages well beyond 300K.   Building on his work through use of Lab testing it wasn't hard to find the correlation between 'sight/feel/odor, the things dad relied on, and test results. Use of current viscosity stable chemistries & filters has pushed that marker for my motors out to 3K summer, 4K winter.    So the early lies were 3K on conventional oil and the lie upon the lie was 7K+. turns out to be off by a factor of two.    So... it is true that modern chemistry has doubled the useful oil life. But the base milage that came from was off by double. It's how good lies work. Partly true, sometimes mostly true so that your meter isn't set off. It also means that non-shear-stable shelf oils are only now as good as the old oils were in their best case scenario.    So the question now is how do we improve on that? Thus the question into cleanliness among the other items listed in the post quoted below.    If this bores you, feel free not to participate.       
    • newdude
      2027 Chevrolet Silverado: Official Discussion

      By newdude · Posted

      Is it though?  Like LTZ, not a high take rate.  Current Sierra has AT4, Denali and Elevation as its main bread winners.  Each trim accounting for 25-35% of sales for Sierra.  SLT makes up about 10-15% at best.        Like others have predicted here for GMC, it will be:   - Pro (equal to WT Chevy)   - Elevation (replaces SLE and SLT)   - AT4 (and X)   - Denali (and Ultimate).  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...