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AUX switch install

smcgillis10

By smcgillis10
in Modifications & Accessories

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TheNewGuy2 Enthusiast

TheNewGuy2

Posted
Posted (edited)

b4.jpg

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b8.jpg

i bench tested "my donor" s48a switch panel with a computer power supply (12vdc) to verify the pins and test the dpdt relays. i forgot to take pictures of everything when i actually had it setup  

Edited by TheNewGuy2
added captions
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Sffsks11
Sffsks11

So if everybody is wondering on how to install these auxiliary switches (GM Oem P# 23145158) without the GM upfitter diagram. I purchased the Bussmann 15303 - 5 it is a weather tight fused and relay b

tha_lildude
tha_lildude

I have just successfully fully integrated my AUX switches OEM style. My fuse block did not come with the relays or fuses, nor did it have connectors for them. I had to purchase a few new things.

AZelkhunter
AZelkhunter

Here are some pictures of the modified buttons. I had to remove all the black and white, then respray the white because you couldn't see the icon in the daylight. I am pretty happy with the way they

Posted Images

TheNewGuy2 Enthusiast

TheNewGuy2

Posted
Posted (edited)

i found that these relays work flawlessly for my setup (thank you @Vuk ) and i went back to my original setup with some rearranging of the term blocks etc. just waiting for my 3rd latching dpdt relay to come in the mail and ill be done!

 

b10.jpg

Edited by TheNewGuy2
added captions and changed the picture
  • Like 1
Vuk Enthusiast

Vuk

Posted
Posted

Very clean; I like to document things myself because it makes your life so much easier down the line.

 

I wish there were a few spots like the AUX battery ? Mine is taken by the actual battery so I had to tuck my latching relays under the dash - it's not too crowded in there.

  • Like 1
Lnafree Enthusiast

Lnafree

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, TheNewGuy2 said:

this setup was only good for 2 auxillary switches

b1.jpg

 

b2.jpg

so then i tried this 6 channel latching relay because of my enclosure size, but i had issues doubling up channels with one trigger

 

 

 

One of mine has an issue turning off. What was the Cng button turns on fine, but wants to stay on. The Park assist turns off fine. Using 2ch latching relay. Saw in another thread that you sometimes need a 2nd switch to make it work  right.

Screenshot_20200313-234805_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Lnafree Enthusiast

Lnafree

Posted
Posted
On 4/7/2020 at 2:15 PM, TheNewGuy2 said:

this setup was only good for 2 auxillary switches

b1.jpg

 

b2.jpg

so then i tried this 6 channel latching relay because of my enclosure size, but i had issues doubling up channels with one trigger

 

 

 

One of mine has an issue turning off. What was the Cng button turns on fine, but wants to stay on. The Park assist turns off fine. Using 2ch latching relay. Saw in another thread that you sometimes need a 2nd switch to make it work  right.

Lnafree Enthusiast

Lnafree

Posted
Posted (edited)

I need a little help with wiring the relay boards to make sure they turn off, as they should.  Right now I have a 2 channel running 2 switches.  I'm going to use one board for each switch.  How do you run the 2nd channel to break the latch? I have ground to com,  no is output. Do I run 2nd ch differently?

Edited by Lnafree
Vuk Enthusiast

Vuk

Posted
Posted

There are two types of latching circuits:

 

1. set/reset that require two buttons where one specific button is designated for setting (turning on), and the other one is designated for resetting (turning off)

2. toggling that require one button

 

If you don't want further complications, you should utilize the toggling type. I am looking at your previous post with the Amazon item description and I think that is the toggling type. Do you have the recommended resistors wired in the circuit? If you have even tried the board without those resistors it may be damaged.

 

 

Lnafree Enthusiast

Lnafree

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, Vuk said:

There are two types of latching circuits:

 

1. set/reset that require two buttons where one specific button is designated for setting (turning on), and the other one is designated for resetting (turning off)

2. toggling that require one button

 

If you don't want further complications, you should utilize the toggling type. I am looking at your previous post with the Amazon item description and I think that is the toggling type. Do you have the recommended resistors wired in the circuit? If you have even tried the board without those resistors it may be damaged.

 

 

No resistors on there.

Vuk Enthusiast

Vuk

Posted
Posted

Oh I see now, I failed to see that you only need series resistors if you use a different power supply for the external trigger circuitry.

 

One board that you've shown should be enough for two switches - the two channels should be independent. You set a pulse on the CH1 trigger input, and the relay turns on; you set another pulse on the CH1 trigger input, and the same relay turns off; same holds for CH2. If the board doesn't operate this way then it may be faulty.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Lnafree Enthusiast

Lnafree

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Vuk said:

There are two types of latching circuits:

 

1. set/reset that require two buttons where one specific button is designated for setting (turning on), and the other one is designated for resetting (turning off)

2. toggling that require one button

 

If you don't want further complications, you should utilize the toggling type. I am looking at your previous post with the Amazon item description and I think that is the toggling type. Do you have the recommended resistors wired in the circuit? If you have even tried the board without those resistors it may be damaged.

 

 

No resistors on there.

Lnafree Enthusiast

Lnafree

Posted
Posted

Thanks. I have another one on the way. I'll try it. I thought there had to be a 2nd trigger to de-latch the relay. It works fine, sometimes,  sometimes doesn't. 

  • 2 weeks later...
JasonG24 New Member

JasonG24

Posted
Posted

Is it possible to use the 30A terminals on the upfitter block in the driver side footwell if you don't have the switches, or is the necessary wiring simply not there? I have a 2016 Silverado LTZ, I"m looking to add some accessories inside the cab and thought I may be able to easily pull accessory or RAP from this location.

TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here is a link to a fully populated plug. The accessory pins are the perfect place to grab power for a CB, outlets, ect.

https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-silverado-sierra-x7-auxiliary-upfitter-harness/

 

The 30 amp pins are coming from the X50A upfitter relay outputs (terminal 87). Without those relays, and without those relays wired back to the X61A they will not have power.

Edited by TinkeringFox
  • Thanks 1
JasonG24 New Member

JasonG24

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, TinkeringFox said:

Here is a link to a fully populated plug. The accessory pins are the perfect place to grab power for a CB, outlets, ect.

https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-silverado-sierra-x7-auxiliary-upfitter-harness/

That's actually one of the harnesses I'm looking at and one of the devices I'm looking to power is an amateur radio. With a test light I can locate constant and switched power, but the (4) 30A pins appears to be dead under all conditions. Is there any way to make them hot, preferably as RAP, or are they useless without the switch bank? Just trying to avoid running wire through the firewall if I have all the power I'd need right there.

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