Jump to content

Wireless Charging


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've been wondering about this as well. I've had my 15 Denali for a month and while reading the manual I came across the wireless charging section. I looked online at the "Build and Price" on the Denali and it isn't an option.

yukon denali not sierra.

  • 11 months later...
  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum but I was hoping someone might be able to help me out. I was wondering if anyone had opened up a 2015 Yukons center console lid. I have the oem wireless charging parts and would like to install them. I posted images of what I'm working with. There are no screws to be seen and I can't seem to pop any pieces off without them bending like they will break. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

post-159322-0-67875600-1465950107_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-54497300-1465950131_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-67875600-1465950107_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-54497300-1465950131_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-67875600-1465950107_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-54497300-1465950131_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-67875600-1465950107_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-54497300-1465950131_thumb.jpg

Posted

Thanks for trying to assist. Yeah I saw your thread and it is one of the ones that encouraged me to try and add it. Your console lid looks very straight forward with easy access to screws. Mine however has no visible screws and I see no clear way to tear it down, unfortunately. If anybody else has accessed this type of console lid, please chime in. Maybe I just need to buy one of those repair manuals from an auto parts store and hope there is a clear schematic in there.

Posted

If it is similar to the 40/20/40 bench seat setup, the plastic does just pop off giving access to the screws. I took my lid off to do the dremel work.

Posted

If it is similar to the 40/20/40 bench seat setup, the plastic does just pop off giving access to the screws. I took my lid off to do the dremel work.

Thank you. I will try to pry at it again. I was using a flat head screwdriver and tried in several areas but the plastic was bending like it would break. I will give it another go. I really appreciate the response.

Posted

Looks like I was going about it all wrong. I was trying to go in thru the top instead the bottom pops off. I posted pics in case it can help someone in the future.

post-159322-0-64480400-1466002450_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-43622600-1466002463_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-64480400-1466002450_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-43622600-1466002463_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-64480400-1466002450_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-43622600-1466002463_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-64480400-1466002450_thumb.jpg

post-159322-0-43622600-1466002463_thumb.jpg

Posted

Sorry. I could have been clearer. That is what I did. once the bottom plastic piece was off, I unscrewed everything so I could dremel it outside of the ruck.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

got the wireless charging on my 2016 sierra,too slow.charges faster with quick charger in power outlet.

Posted

got the wireless charging on my 2016 sierra,too slow.charges faster with quick charger in power outlet.

 

 

uhhhh, yeah, you're right... charges slow and always will wrt to a dedicated wired quick charger. I think the wireless charging in the console is more meant to "maintain" or minimally charge, rather than quick charge from 0-100 in an hour.

 

Mine will charge somewhat, but, like you said, I do keep a Q2.0 in the center console for "emergencies: ... :)

Posted

I'm glad I don't have the OEM wireless charger in my '15. Gives me the easy ability to upgrade as hardware gets better. For example, I just recently switched out the charging pad for a fast wireless charger pad. Big improvement.

Posted

Seems to me that if an improved wireless charger is available you could upgrade even if the factory one is installed.

 

 

If you want to use Android Auto/Carplay and GoogleMaps with the neat traffic feature, the phone has to be cable connected anyway. Kinda makes wireless a little redundant.

 

 

Tried the wireless charging with an S7. Works finewith just the phone, but with a protective case installed the phone doesn't fit (it's to wide) deep enough into charge pad for it to work.

Posted

Seems to me that if an improved wireless charger is available you could upgrade even if the factory one is installed.

 

 

If you want to use Android Auto/Carplay and GoogleMaps with the neat traffic feature, the phone has to be cable connected anyway. Kinda makes wireless a little redundant.

 

 

Tried the wireless charging with an S7. Works finewith just the phone, but with a protective case installed the phone doesn't fit (it's to wide) deep enough into charge pad for it to work.

 

Probably sized for an i-phone is my guess.

Posted

 

Probably sized for an i-phone is my guess.

It's perfect for the S7, as long as it's not in the otterbox.

Posted

Seems to me that if an improved wireless charger is available you could upgrade even if the factory one is installed.

 

 

If you want to use Android Auto/Carplay and GoogleMaps with the neat traffic feature, the phone has to be cable connected anyway. Kinda makes wireless a little redundant.

 

 

Tried the wireless charging with an S7. Works finewith just the phone, but with a protective case installed the phone doesn't fit (it's to wide) deep enough into charge pad for it to work.

 

 

I have a UAG case on my S7 an it fits perfectly. Not completely encased over the front like the top tier Otterbox but all of the UAG cases are pretty slim and have a MIL-Spec associated with it and the phone is waterpr....resistant anyway. Unfortunately I did my own experiment over the 4th of July weekend and jumped in the creek with my phone in my pocket and she still works (Just as Lil' Wayne advertised)! Guess we'll see how long it takes for the corrosion to take over lol :nopity:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 395 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...