Wheel nuts cracked

[Dropsix]

Here's a question. What does the spare tire wrench look like?

[SouthernSilveradoGuy85]

Here's a question. What does the spare tire wrench look like?

 

http://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2014/chevrolet/silverado-1500/lt-trim/5-3l-v8-flex-engine/body-cat/jack-and-components-scat

 

I looked under '14 Silverado but should be the same for yours.

[Dropsix]

 

http://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2014/chevrolet/silverado-1500/lt-trim/5-3l-v8-flex-engine/body-cat/jack-and-components-scat

 

I looked under '14 Silverado but should be the same for yours.

 

Thanks.

 

So if you happen to get a flat, you're going to wind up needing new lug nuts after? That wrench doesn't look like it has a deep socket.

[SouthernSilveradoGuy85]

 

Thanks.

 

So if you happen to get a flat, you're going to wind up needing new lug nuts after? That wrench doesn't look like it has a deep socket.

 

Well I don't think a short socket will damage the longer lugs since all you can do is hand tighten them on the side of the road, at least for a majority of people. I have a battery impact, deep impact sockets and also a breaker bar so I will only need the jack and the parts that I'd need to lower the spare. I even have my TQ wrench in the toolbox so if it's not raining or cold I would even torque them to 140.

[Dropsix]

In the end the dealer agreed to replace them. No questions asked. I have a deep socket now and from here on in, I will not be using an impact on them again. (even just to loosen them, which was what I did the first time)

 

From now on, it's all manual.

 

Thx guys

[pm26]

If you really want to torque those wheels right, do it in three stages: 1st stage to 45 ft-lbs, second to 90 ft-lbs, and the third final torquing to 140 ft-lbs. (about 30%, 60% and lastly 100% of the final torque). Use star pattern too when torquing in all stages. This is the best way and it will help prevent brake rotor distortion (warping).

 

Remember that the torque wrench must still be moving when you hear the click. if you check torque with a clicker wrench on a fastener and it clicks before it starts turning that fastener, the fastener is always tighter than the checking torque.

 

This link may be of help to understand how pipeline flange bolts are torqued:

 

 

 

 

http://www.piping-designer.com/Bolt_Tightening_Procedure

 

Note: Do not lubricate the studs or lug nut threads on your truck. If the threads have substantial surface rust (should not be the case with 2014 or 2015 vehicles) then spray some WD-40 on the stud threads and wipe off with a rag. Do not use oil, grease, or anti-seize compound on the threads. If you do, you risk seriously overtorquing the wheel lug nuts, as you are lessening the friction between threads. The 140 ft-lbs torque value given is for unlubricated threads. Most of the torque applied goes toward overcoming the friction between the threads and between the lug nut and the wheel.

[Dropsix]

If you really want to torque those wheels right, do it in three stages: 1st stage to 45 ft-lbs, second to 90 ft-lbs, and the third final torquing to 140 ft-lbs. (about 30%, 60% and lastly 100% of the final torque). Use star pattern too when torquing in all stages. This is the best way and it will help prevent brake rotor distortion (warping).

 

Remember that the torque wrench must still be moving when you hear the click. if you check torque with a clicker wrench on a fastener and it clicks before it starts turning that fastener, the fastener is always tighter than the checking torque.

 

This link may be of help to understand how pipeline flange bolts are torqued:

 

 

 

 

http://www.piping-designer.com/Bolt_Tightening_Procedure

 

Note: Do not lubricate the studs or lug nut threads on your truck. If the threads have substantial surface rust (should not be the case with 2014 or 2015 vehicles) then spray some WD-40 on the stud threads and wipe off with a rag. Do not use oil, grease, or anti-seize compound on the threads. If you do, you risk seriously overtorquing the wheel lug nuts, as you are lessening the friction between threads. The 140 ft-lbs torque value given is for unlubricated threads. Most of the torque applied goes toward overcoming the friction between the threads and between the lug nut and the wheel.

 

Yeah I know how to torque lug nuts.

 

This issue was strictly related to the plastic chrome cap on top of the lug nuts. They are very fragile and will split (just the cover, not the actual lug nut).

[LesN]

I have been doing my own wheel changes for years on GM/Chevy products. I always loosen and tighten by hand, no impacts are used . I torque with a torque wrench to the required amount. I also always use a long socket that covers the complete nut. The nut covers always split. My new 2019 ,after one winter has  50% split nuts.  My 2016 and 2011 also did it after a year or so.  Just very poor products. The aftermarkets are even worse.  I am heading to the dealer on Monday to ask for warranty. Not expecting much as they will say it wasnt them that took them on and off or I torqued them wrong. I guess I could pay the dealer $100. to do the change and they most likely would still not warranty them. As you can tell I am not a happy camper!

[diyer2]

Very poor design.

I was looking at these.

No caps. Solid chrome steel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JH1I320/?coliid=I20OSSAH49X3G7&colid=25MW9EWLWSL9A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I would think available for all trucks.

 

 

[davester]

When I was running hubcaps on my '04, I just hand-snugged all of them down, in a star pattern and never had a problem with them splitting.  I did have some problems with lug nuts getting loose, which the hub caps covered up, so now I run with those plastic pointers on the lug nuts instead.