Accessory switches in upper left cubby/pocket

[darkfox1]

I've been trying to find a place to put accessory switches for a while. Then today I find this:

 

 

(full link to source here: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/review/first-drive-lingenfelter-silverado-reaper-54094.html?page=2 )

 

I called lingenfelter which directed me to southern comfort which says they're special order, and hasn't yet given me a price after a few HOURS on the live support chat.

 

Anyone know where else to get such a thing?

 

Also found this from Nitrous Express:

 

(full source here: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15789-2014-up-silverado-custom-switch-panel.html )

 

Works.. but its labeled and the buttons are much smaller. I talked to Chris at NX for awhile and he was very helpful. The problem for me on the NX solution is that the labels are etched, so I'd have to buy the switch panel, sand it, then have it repainted, and its already $60.. so that'd cost a lot for such a little thing. I'd prefer the first one. Has anyone seen anything like this?

 

TBH I'm considering reaching out to one of my clients that does CNC/waterjet work and seeing if they can put mein touch with someone to make a generic panel to fit in this spot. I forsee this useless cubby having a big market for switches, and I'm surprised there's so few out there.

Edited March 31, 2015 by darkfox1

[04GMshorty]

that is a nice piece..i actually have a push/pull switch mounted in the back of that cubby and cant be seen which is nice but would like to mount another switch in the same spot..might have to try and fab something up.

[Imcrazy]

Looks good!

[TheTunaHunter]

That first option looks great!

 

I've been thinking of splurging for an S-Pod -- www.4x4spod.com

[darkfox1]

Yea, the first option is my first choice too, the folks at southern comfort haven't been too forthcoming with one just yet though. I'm going to keep poking at them until I get a price or a "no."

 

I really only need 1 switch, but I've been considering adding reverse lights to the truck too so.. having a 2nd switch would be fine with me.

 

Frankly I'm surprised there aren't a lot of options out there for this. That cubby is worthless and GM has really given us few options for mounting locations on the K2 body trucks. GMT-800s had tons of places.. and 900s even had a few (though far less.)

Edited April 1, 2015 by darkfox1

[thetruck454]

Yea, the first option is my first choice too, the folks at southern comfort haven't been too forthcoming with one just yet though. I'm going to keep poking at them until I get a price or a "no."

 

I really only need 1 switch, but I've been considering adding reverse lights to the truck too so.. having a 2nd switch would be fine with me.

 

Those switches are very customizable. If you go on amazon and search for em you can find a variety of switches that say rock lights, LED light bar, fog lights, even weird things like "zombie lights" and of course the ejector seat. They're not cheap, about $16 a switch.

 

Frankly I'm surprised there aren't a lot of options out there for this. That cubby is worthless and GM has really given us few options for mounting locations on the K2 body trucks. GMT-800s had tons of places.. and 900s even had a few (though far less.)

 

Isn't that the cubby for the trailer brake controller?

[darkfox1]

 

Isn't that the cubby for the trailer brake controller?

 

 

Yup. For the trucks with the trailer brakes theres a small button hole area and a slot for the sensitivity. I considered just buying that bezel and putting my switch behind the hole but.. I figure it'd kinda look weird.

[PMattras]

This seems to be a good idea on how to get the most out of the small cubby/pocket. Has anyone else come up with additional ideas with it?

[darkfox1]

I'm still trying to get a price/source on the top one.

 

I've been doing some looking at the cubby. The rubber piece thats inside of it clips in with a lower tab and there's 2 upper tabs. If someone had a 3d scanner we could get a render of this piece going fairly easily I imagine. Extend the front lip to the top of the panel and put a rubber trim piece on the back side of it to prevent it from rattling, perhaps put some 45s on either side for stretch. (you dont want the piece moving inward when you push on the switches.)

 

I haven't seen either of the above in person yet but from discussing the NX solution that seems to be how its made.. cept its metal.

 

I'm thinking 3d printing or some sort of injection molding from a template. I just don't have any good contacts just yet or I'd already be underway in trying ot get these things made.

 

Southern comfort is giving me the run around. I was on the chat thing on hold for over an hour today. (I've been on client sites all week so I can't call them.)

[NitroDatsik]

I seen that first one you posted and also wanted it but couldn't get any info on it so I did this and works great.

overhead console switches.

[Freddy667]

Is this what your looking for? http://utvinc.com/switches/

Edited April 2, 2015 by Freddy667

[darkfox1]

Is this what your looking for? http://utvinc.com/switches/

 

The switches themselves are very useful yes, but I need the plastic cubbyhole insert to put said switches in first.

 

I considered mounting them in the overhead console. That's sort of the last option for me.

[Panik]

Hey there neighbor! I'm out of Cave Spring, so if you find someone local who can fab up a panel that fits that cubbyhole let me know and I'd probably be willing to go in on it with you.

 

Couple things for you to kick over if you haven't already thought of it:

 

1) if you are only wanting a couple of switched accessories, I know there are folks that are using the homelink buttons in combination with an aftermarket receiver to control relays:

 

http://www.amazon.com/AGT-Waterproof-Wireless-Universal-2-Channel/dp/B0068D0OBI

 

2) These guys are pretty cool to work with for switches:

 

http://www.otrattw.net/home.php

 

I used them for switches when I added an aux. panel to my tractor for lights and and to control a sprayer. They did a custom label for one of my switches.

 

3) I haven't done it yet, but on the driver's side door pillar, in between the hinges, there should be a plastic plug that can be pulled that would allow you to route from the driver's side of the engine bay up behind the hood hinge and through the door frame and into the cab. Sorry don't have pics at the moment otherwise I would post up.

 

I haven't done anything yet in regards to adding switches to my truck, but I've been thinking pretty heavily. I'll definitely being following this to see how it goes. Best of luck.

[NitroDatsik]

Running cables through the firewall is a PITA. I done it a few times now but the first 2 times I was sweating lol.

[darkfox1]

I'm probably gonna pull power for thje switch off RAP inside the cab, so the only wires running through the FW will be the power out to the relay. The relay will run right off the battery.

 

This is actually for my foglight retrofit project. It's too much hassle to go with the way GM did it from the factory for me, and I like having the control over it. All I need is RAP to be on and my fogs will work if I have the rocker switch on.

 

 

The other switch will be for reverse/trailering lights. I had some on my 03 silverado and loved them. With a backup cam and reverse lights you can hitch up by yourself in 1 go without having to get out and look.. even in the middle of the night if you had to. VERY useful. I dont have these yet, but I'd still get the switch in there and ready.

 

I actually spoke with a client today. The client makes assembly parts for factories that injection mold plastic. I was disheartened to hear that he didn't know of anyone that does "small jobs."

 

I'm working with the folks at southern comfort right now for the reaper switches, but I'm pretty much "begging and pleading" since they normally refuse parts for these custom trucks to people who do not own one. I understand that on the fender flares and grill, but switches too? They haven't said no yet, but they haven't said yes either. Still pushing.

 

To make one ourselves.. I'd take the approach of trying to get measurements of the stock rubber insert, then extend the front lip to the top of the cubby with a rubber bushing on the back. If there was some kind of "rubber hardener" that made rubber as hard as plastic it could be sprayed on the existing rubber piece and a front plate mated with it with adhesive and that'd accomplish that goal right away. The other option would be to glue 2 pieces of plexi together, but since I want this to look professional.... I dont think I have the ability to do that. (I can't even cut a straight line. I don't have a saw for this kind of work, just a dremel.)

 

Anyone know of any free cad programs? I could try to draw up something. This may be easier to make than to try to buy tbh