Jump to content

Paint protection options


Recommended Posts

Posted

My truck will be going to get the flaking paint warrantied on the passenger side in a few weeks. I've been trying to decide what my best option to protect the paint on the lower portion of the doors/low part of bed would be. At first, i was going to do chip guard tape, but am weary of how well it will last in the sun and i'm worried about air bubbles. My second thought was clear chip guard paint. I would have it done like the factory on the rocker panels, but brought up to the lower body line on the doors. Has anyone had good luck with this? I have-12 offset wheels, with no flares or steps because i really hate the look of flares and steps and love the poke. I'm basically looking for opinions and experience with ways to prevent paint chips on the rockers, doors, and front of bed. I daily drive my truck and do a large amount of back road driving. Thanks for the input.

Posted

I have had no problems with chip guard paint clear top coat. Been using it for years on several vehicles I painted. I prefer using the clear over the base coat when repainting a vehicle then clearing over the chip guard. You can also buy the one that goes under the color coat. Clearing over it makes it easier to wax and never dulls.

Posted

I wouldn't use 3M Paint Defender, it's too thin to protect that area and it's semi-permanent in nature. If you had the money, have spray-on bedliner in the color of the truck applied. A cheaper alternative (and if you don't mind black) is applying rubberized undercoating which has a tough yet flexible finish. Rocks and debris would bounce off instead of taking a chunk out of the coating. Use at least 2 cans per side since the total area is quite large (assuming the truck has a double or a crew cab), 3 might be better.

Posted
Posted

I like this but these pre-cut ones seem to only be for crew cabs and i have a double cab.

Posted

i went to the local vinyl shop and got all 4 rockers done inside where you could drag your feet getting in and out. he said they use it alot on bed sides and doors. he applied it wet and squeegied it out. no air bubbles and you have to look close to see it. best thing i did so far lol

Posted

i went to the local vinyl shop and got all 4 rockers done inside where you could drag your feet getting in and out. he said they use it alot on bed sides and doors. he applied it wet and squeegied it out. no air bubbles and you have to look close to see it. best thing i did so far lol

Thanks. That's what i'm leaning towards the most right now

Posted

I have seen a few trucks with color matched bed liner paint on the sides, I was skeptical at first but once seeing it up close it was pretty nice. Still not something I would do, but thats just me.

Posted

I have seen a few trucks with color matched bed liner paint on the sides, I was skeptical at first but once seeing it up close it was pretty nice. Still not something I would do, but thats just me.

I want something to protect a decent part of the lower body. I don't think bedliner would match well at all. Also think I'd have a hard time keeping it from staining
Posted

I want something to protect a decent part of the lower body. I don't think bedliner would match well at all. Also think I'd have a hard time keeping it from staining

the two I have seen were color matched exactly.

Posted

the two I have seen were color matched exactly.

Have a hard time seeing rainforest green metallic matched well to bedliner. I want to go to the bottom of the body line on the door. I just don't think it'd look right

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 307 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...