Jump to content

2015 Lower Air Dam Removal

SierraBrad

Recommended Posts

SierraBrad Enthusiast

SierraBrad

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have front on pics of a gmc all terrain front on with a before and after with the lower air dam removed. Looking to see what it looks like. Step 1 of levelling it! Air mileage difference??

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply
medic717 Enthusiast

medic717

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure of will help but I will take a pic of my sle without it and post it for you...

SierraBrad Enthusiast

SierraBrad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm not sure of will help but I will take a pic of my sle without it and post it for you...

Thanks that would be great!

bboyce536 Enthusiast

bboyce536

Posted
Posted

Read on here somewhere that taking the airdam off loses 2.5 mpg.

No, not true at all. You will not lose much if anything. Maybe .1mpg. I had mine off my 14 for over a yr and on for the first yr...never noticed any difference.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Read on here somewhere that taking the airdam off loses 2.5 mpg.

 

Nope. Didn't lose anything. Maybe a 1/2 mpg at most on the interstate but nothing seems to be lost around town or a highway.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

It's there to provide downforce.

 

I don't think so. Those plastic valances always just helped flow air around the truck rather than underneath to help with MPGs which it usually only helped it by less than 1 MPG. I took the valance off of my 98 after not having it long and sometime after I took it off I took an off-ramp going about 75 MPH when the limit for the ramp was 25 and it held it just fine and never broke loose. Ya I was stupid and only 18, but the point is that they don't help with downforce and if they do then it's even less than it helps with MPGs.

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
Posted

That lower valance / pseudo splitter is there to limit the airflow under the truck which in turn limits drag at high speed and helps plant the rear of the truck at high speed. It also helps move air around the sides to help with tracking. On a final note, if it served no purpose why would the gm engineers even put it on there in the first place. They could have easily left it off, saved a few bucks and still charged you for it. Just my 2 cents.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

That lower valance / pseudo splitter is there to limit the airflow under the truck which in turn limits drag at high speed and helps plant the rear of the truck at high speed. It also helps move air around the sides to help with tracking. On a final note, if it served no purpose why would the gm engineers even put it on there in the first place. They could have easily left it off, saved a few bucks and still charged you for it. Just my 2 cents.

Exactly, same goes with afm and how people are trying to tell me it doesn't save fuel.

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

GM, like every automaker has to do things to chase MPG gains, even if it's only a benefit in testing and not the real world. This and AFM are two things that seem pointless in the real world.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...