Jump to content

Stepbars or Not?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2011 LTZ crew 4x4 with leveling kit. It's always had the stepbars, but I recently took them off trying to fix a squeaky bushing. What looks better? Also, how much do the bars help prevent paint chips from rocks?

post-47009-0-83135800-1440943351_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-34158900-1440943509_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-83135800-1440943351_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-34158900-1440943509_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-83135800-1440943351_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-34158900-1440943509_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-83135800-1440943351_thumb.jpg

post-47009-0-34158900-1440943509_thumb.jpg

Posted

I like without also. But I have to keep them on for the 5yr old.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

I don't generally like the look of stepbars, but understand that for some they are a necessity. I have them on my 2006 Sierra, and I don't need them, being 6'1" with long legs. I'd rather get rid of them as they look bad and interfere with getting under the truck sometimes, etc. But I leave them on because everyone who rides with me is short and has to have them to get in.

Posted

I think you should stick with the bars. I like the look. I know they're not designed to protect from rocks, but you'll get some residual protection.

Posted

Looks barren without them. I agree they are worth the rocker protection at least. I never use mine, but keep them for that reason alone. Of course, your location, use of vehicle would impact my decision.

Posted

Keep them off. If you "need" them, get the AMPS steps. Best of both worlds.

 

Worth noting, there is nothing left of my rockers at this point.....literally nothing there anymore. Not saying step bars would have prevented this, but I do see where it could help.

Posted

If I dont have step bars, I will have AMP Power folds. One of the big plusses is standing on them and knocking the snow off my boots before getting in to the truck.

Posted

I have them and would take them off if I didn't live in a very rural area. They protect the paint big-time on my 13 GMC. My cousin has a 2010 Silverado without them and has major paint chips on the rockers.

Posted

I never liked the idea of stepbars or running boards for fear (but not knowledge) that they would interfere negatively with the aerodynamics and stability of the truck at speeds over 100 mph. And yes, that sometimes unintentionally happens during a pass on a two lane highway.

Posted

looks better without but as the truck ages and the black protectant of the frame wears off you will see the rusty frame and maybe rusty rockers start to show, then youll want those bars, keep the rockers well maintained either way!

Posted

I never liked the idea of stepbars or running boards for fear (but not knowledge) that they would interfere negatively with the aerodynamics and stability of the truck at speeds over 100 mph. And yes, that sometimes unintentionally happens during a pass on a two lane highway.

You really think the step bars affect stability if you go 100? That's the silliest thing I have heard in a long while...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Pryme ! I was thinking of adding one to my 2024 6.6 gas  . Could you elaborate a bit more on your statement  Thank You 
    • What a wonderful result! Great story telling to. You are quite multifaceted sir.  I'd keep it. Four is my limit too and yet we have five as well. One assigned the 'salt car' to do all those tasks you hate to ask of your 'Save for Good" crowd. 😉    Don't forget the antifreeze.    The Iron 4.3 is a favorite of mine. 
    • Thanks Buck Wallace ! The more owners that tell me they are getting the same noise the more comfortable I will be with it !
    • Ancillary parts to the lower intake and connections went together without issue.   There was a brief pause when I leak-tested the fuel lines and injection system. Fuel was spraying all over. Lovely. O-rings weren't sealing the fuel lines to the spider, and inbound line was leaking at schrader valve, leaks at both flange nuts. It's moments like those when you just want to set fire to the whole shop, and be done with it. I was mostly enjoying the project up until that point, and was tracking to an agenda of having a running Blazer and a cold beverage in hand by dinnertime.    I found some larger Viton o-rings for my spider and some grease to get them to seat. One leak solved. Swapped fuel line Schrader core for old core. Still leaked. Swapped entire valve for old valve. Leak solved. Nudged the flange nuts a little tighter on the connections. Another leak solved. I could cycle the key / prime the pump and the intake was staying dry.    Reassembled the upper intake, with 10,000 vacuum lines, and filled the cooling system with water* (this is temporary, I'm not done with the cooling system yet).   Showtime!!   Cranked it over and smoke billowed, it was running rough. CEL illuminated and began flashing. P0300 and I somehow tripped a code for the TPS sensor, voltage low.    There's nothing as unrewarding as a vehicle that won't run (and produces the same code/problem) after hours of research and work.   Clearly I was in over my head. Was the timing off, did I stab the distributor incorrectly? Is the new distributor bad? With my limited OBD 1.5 data stream I really don't have a lot of parameters to see. The engine was pulling mad timing again (flooding?).   Think, Atlas, think.   1-6-5-4-3-2. One, six, five.....four, three, ....two. Wait a second. That makes no sense. 1 is the forward cylinder on the driver's side, so 2 should be the forward cylinder on the passenger side, not 6.    I can't believe it, but I'm looking right at it. Swapped 2 and 6 on the distributor and turned the key over, and...   It fired, coughed and stumbled, smoked, and then settled into a smooth idle. The scanner showed no codes, no lights on the dash, and the throttle was nice and responsive to gentle revs while it warmed up.   It's working!!! IT'S WORKING!!!   I paused for a late dinner, no cold beverage yet. I was determined to do my shakedown run. Did a basic safety and fluids check one more time and then went out and put almost 70 miles on it last night. She's a runner, runs good.   Came home and did a post-trip, post-mortem. The underside is dry *except* for where the last owner RTV'd the snow out of the intersection of the timing cover and oil pan. He said he had replaced the timing cover seal, but, my dude had clearly done it incorrectly and then tried to hold back fate with black RTV. Never works.   Yesterday morning I replaced the broken driver's door mirror. As much as I hate cheap Chinese parts, thank goodness for cheap Chinese parts. I think an entire new power mirror assembly cost me like $30, and it works perfectly. Replacement tail lights (faded, and one was busted) ran me about $12/side. I have a door pin kit ready to go in because the driver's door sags just a little and I want to fix that because there's nothing sadder than a saggy door.   I don't know what's next for this rig. Half of me wants to take some nice photos (there's a park nearby with a HUGE American Flag that always seems to be catching wind) and throw it up on CL/Marketplace for a couple grand and see if it flies. The other half of me... I've got a sweet running S10 Blazer that's been keeping my mind off of whatever I'm going through right now, and it's bringing some joy, and is cheaper than therapy. Maybe I'll keep it around for a little while. However, this is my 5th vehicle, just for me. 4 is really my limit, but they are not junk, so need very little attention. I don't know...there's a point where it's just too much and I don't see owning this truck long term. But I solved its major problem, got it running, so I'm going to stick a feather in my cap for now.   Sometimes we just need to get our hands dirty and fix something in the physical world to gain some satisfaction.
    • Happy 4th of July! Be safe out there tonight     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...