let's see those waxed 14's 15's

[Tony Bianco]

What are you guys using for clay bar lubricant? I have been using No Rinse Wash and Shine because I have it from living in philly and using it to wash my jeep, it doubles as a clay bar lube.

 

I'm almost out of it and wondering what people use. I'm gonna clay bar before my next wax job - I skipped it this time since it was in pretty good shape being brand new

 

 

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You can mix some soapy water in a spray bottle and use it. Chemical Guys also sells "Luber" which is just for clay, but the soapy water works just as well and is FREE!

[Tony Bianco]

Finally got some decent pics. In truth, it isn't done yet. I work a lot and I'm slow. Still have to do engine bay, and interior - as well as the black trim and tires.

 

But the polish/correction and wax of the exterior is complete. I think she looks pretty daggum decent for my first go round with the PC.

 

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Thought this last one was a blemish or something in the paint because of the "streak" that almost looks like a NIKE swoosh. It apparently was just a shadow or reflection from the fender curve above it because there is nothing there!

That paint in the laast pic looks like you could reach into it ........ deep!

Here is a couple good reflection pics. Now this is of My 32 ford so the paint is totally different. This is a simple cut and polish and that's it. No sealant no wax. It helps to work with very high end clear coat.

 

 

 

 

Looks great!

[Tony Bianco]

These black waxed photos make me miss having a black ride. Nothing looks as good as black after a nice wax job. I don't miss the upkeep though and love how well the brownstone hides everything. Just doesn't give you that WOW like black does.

 

Nice work fellas.

 

When talking about using a powered buffer, just make sure you are all talking about the oscillating kind. The ones that just spin in a circle can cause damage very easily if you're not careful. The oscillating type make it much easier to avoid damage because the pattern is random as opposed to something just spinning in a circle. The type that just spin are where you can get into trouble if not careful because you can "burn in" areas if you spend too long in spot or don't keep it moving.

 

Now that I own a truck, I'm thinking about picking one up to make life easier on myself. These bad boys have a lot of paint real estate.

 

 

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That's right. A DA (dual action/oscillating) buffer can still damage with VERY harsh compounds, but no one uses compounds that extreme with the DA buffers.

The other type of buffer (rotary) are not for the beginner. You can use foam pads or wool pads. The reason why these type of buffers have more potential for damaging the paint is because of the high RPM/speed their capable of. Anyone could use these and not damage the paint AS LONG AS they aren't using all the power it has to offer.

Body shops use these almost exclusively which is why you tend to see swirls in the paint when the vehicle is finished.

[Tony Bianco]

Black fire is great, my truck is white but my other toy is blk

 

 

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Love it.

[sprayed99]

That's right. A DA (dual action/oscillating) buffer can still damage with VERY harsh compounds, but no one uses compounds that extreme with the DA buffers.

The other type of buffer (rotary) are not for the beginner. You can use foam pads or wool pads. The reason why these type of buffers have more potential for damaging the paint is because of the high RPM/speed their capable of. Anyone could use these and not damage the paint AS LONG AS they aren't using all the power it has to offer.

Body shops use these almost exclusively which is why you tend to see swirls in the paint when the vehicle is finished.

They also create a "leading edge" while buffing. Meaning you have an extreme about of speed and product being applied on a very small portion of the paint and creates a lot of heat too. It is very easy to burn body lines and hard edges of paint work. I still use a rotary to this day on many things. In fact the reflection pictures I posted earlier are from using a rotary and there are no "swirl" marks (We call them Rat Tails). That didn't happen by accident, just years of using a rotary and knowing how to use the products to get the desired results. After my first initial cut and buff I will never use the rotary again on that paint. I have to use a rotary as wet sanding to remover urethane wave starts at 800. I'm hoping to take the cover off the 32 and give it a good cleaning and sealing finally as the paint is just over a year old now.

[Potts]

I have used several but right now specifically I am using Meguars clay bar and the optimum clay cloth. The clay cloth is awesome! The only downside is that it is not that aggressive. So if you have a heavily contaminated surface, use the regular clay.

I've never heard of the clay cloth - I'll have to look into it. I use meguair's clay bars myself. They last a long time and do a good job as far as I'm concerned. Clay bar'ing makes a HUGE difference when it comes to laying a good coat of wax and getting professional results. After a good claying and waxing, I can help myself from opening the window and petting the side of my ride. It just feels soooo nice.

 

You can mix some soapy water in a spray bottle and use it. Chemical Guys also sells "Luber" which is just for clay, but the soapy water works just as well and is FREE!

Nice. I forgot about the good ole dish soap. Dish soap also helps strip the pre-existing wax as well. Good call.

 

 

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[Tony Bianco]

They also create a "leading edge" while buffing. Meaning you have an extreme about of speed and product being applied on a very small portion of the paint and creates a lot of heat too. It is very easy to burn body lines and hard edges of paint work. I still use a rotary to this day on many things. In fact the reflection pictures I posted earlier are from using a rotary and there are no "swirl" marks (We call them Rat Tails). That didn't happen by accident, just years of using a rotary and knowing how to use the products to get the desired results. After my first initial cut and buff I will never use the rotary again on that paint. I have to use a rotary as wet sanding to remover urethane wave starts at 800. I'm hoping to take the cover off the 32 and give it a good cleaning and sealing finally as the paint is just over a year old now.

Yup.

Even after almost 30 years in the business I still tape the edges when using any type of polish/compound with a cut to it. I don't take anything for granted.

I learned the business with a Makita rotary and still feel the most comfortable with it, but am enjoying using the Rupes as well.

 

Anytime paint is polished/compounded with a rotary then like you said ....... that's the first & last time that paint is ever going to receive a deep polishing. A good amount of the existing clear coat (or base depending upon the type of paint job) is now gone. Try it again and you'll likely burn the paint.

 

[Imcrazy]

[sprayed99]

A good amount of the existing clear coat (or base depending upon the type of paint job) is now gone. Try it again and you'll likely burn the paint.

 

 

 

I don't shoot your normal 3 coats and call it done. Everything I shoot is 4 coats, cut, 3 more coats, cut and buff. If you are shooting your standard 3 then, yes you don't need to be using the rotary again.

[Chadwilliam1]

I washed it thoroughly, I used hybrid V7 from chem guys on everything including the glass. Then I shined the tires and put 303 on every piece of black plastic on the truck.

 

[Tony Bianco]

I washed it thoroughly, I used hybrid V7 from chem guys on everything including the glass. Then I shined the tires and put 303 on every piece of black plastic on the truck.

 

 

The V7 is nice stuff to get the reflection. Your finish looks great!

 

Whenever you run out of the V7; get yourself some CQuartz Reload ....... phenomenal reflection and it's one of the longest lasting spray sealants you can buy at 3 months protection or possibly more depending on how the vehicle is cosmetically maintained.

[Chadwilliam1]

Thanks I will look into it. I just bought a gallon of v7. That should be at least a years supply for me.

 

Sent from my HTC M9

[Tattooo]

Finally got some decent pics. In truth, it isn't done yet. I work a lot and I'm slow. Still have to do engine bay, and interior - as well as the black trim and tires.

 

But the polish/correction and wax of the exterior is complete. I think she looks pretty daggum decent for my first go round with the PC.

 

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Untitled by acevedor2, on Flickr

Thought this last one was a blemish or something in the paint because of the "streak" that almost looks like a NIKE swoosh. It apparently was just a shadow or reflection from the fender curve above it because there is nothing there!

Looks like glass [emoji106]

[ikaika1984]

Not sure who's pic of the 1st Denali is. What method is used to clean engine bay and interior.. I'm just trying to get on board... Thanks in advance

 

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[RyanbabZ71]

Engine bay - apc and then a dressing of your choice (example Adams in and out spray)

 

 

Ryan